Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Late-Winter Doldrums? Think Green Herbs!

Late winter can be quite rude, dragging its feet, refusing to leave, and spluttering the same stale conversation over and over, fatiguing everyone. If you have overwintered some herbs in the garden under fleece/potted some to bring indoors/have a supermarket which stocks fresh herbs, one way to hasten the vivid green of early spring is adding chives, parsley, and dill along with a bracing dose of crushed garlic to spaetzle batter.  This cross between fresh pasta and dumpling is first boiled, then lightly sauteed in butter till their green-flecked, yellow squiggly shapes glisten with golden-brown edges, only needing to be topped with freshly grated Parmesan to make a lovely supper dish.


My recipe differs significantly from the one my mother made during my childhood.   Her version was traditional, that is, made with just flour and eggs, served boiled and laced with butter and salt that mostly appealed to our inner familial circle;  she used a teaspoon to shape them and when done, they were the size of small eggs, not particularly tender but substantial and tasty.  Enjoying those as much as I did, I wanted to spread spaetzle love to a wider audience.  After some research, I have come up with a succulent, visually attractive, and delicious dish!


Ingredients
(makes either two moderately sized servings or a really big and satisfying one for a main course OR four servings as a side dish)

  • Flour, white, 1 cup*
  • Eggs, large, 3
  • Salt, a minimum of 1/4 tsp, to be included in the batter, more can be added into the batter if desired or just before serving--as spaetzle is rather bland.
  • Dill, fresh, 1 tsp; dried 1/2 tsp
  • Parsley, fresh, 1 tsp; dried 1/2 tsp
  • Chives, fresh, 1 T; dried 1 tsp
  • Garlic, 1 fat clove, pressed or minced finely
  • Butter, sweet, 2 T
  • Parmesan, freshly grated, about 1/4 cup*

* American measure, that is, 8 oz

Quantities can be proportionally increased if desired.  Dried herbs work well also, but try to include at least one fresh variety.  Though there are various presses for making neat, dainty spaetzle, pasta ribbons can be made easily by using a butter knife to scrape the batter into boiling water.  A plain knife is also way easier to clean than a press.  Additionally, I prefer the more free-form shapes that sometimes resemble jumbo shrimp!


Bring water to a brisk boil in a medium-sized pot.  Meanwhile prepare the batter.  Crack the eggs into a mixing bowl with curved sides, preferably a light-weight plastic one as it will serve as a 'board' for scraping batter into the boiling water--holding a heavy glass bowl over the pot can become taxing.  Whisk the eggs until well mixed.


Add the flour and at first gradually incorporate the flour until there are no dry bits.


Then beat vigorously with a fork until batter is stretchy and sticky.  This batter will fight back so don't be timid, wield that fork!  As your flour's ability for absorbing water (based on its age) may vary from mine, you may need more or less than the recommended amount.  Keep in mind the consistency you are looking for is a very thick batter and that it will become more fluid when spread with a warm knife.  If the batter is too thick, the pasta will be heavy in texture, if too thin, it will fall apart in the boiling water. 

When learning how to make this dish, I erred on the side of having a too thick batter, because at least, the finished spaetzle would be edible.  I would recommend your testing this dish out first for yourself before serving it to others.  But, please have fun with it!


Add the herbs, garlic, and salt and beat until well mixed.


Taking a butter knife, dip it in the boiling water, and spread some batter along the area just under the rim of the bowl, scraping off strips of batter into the boiling water while tilting the bowl.  An alternate, but somewhat messy way, is to transfer the batter onto a flat plate or wooden board and then scrape strips into the pot.


Remove the spaetzle when they rise to the surface and have been in the boiling water for a total of about 2 minutes.  Since this kind of egg-rich pasta can become rubbery if cooked too long and it will be pan-fried also, be careful not to over do it at this stage.  It took two batches for me to scrap batter fast enough so there was time to fish them out.  If necessary, work with smaller batches.  With practice, you will get quicker--my grandmother's speed for spaetzle making was legendary!  Drain them well.


Melt the butter in a skillet and toss in the spaetzle.  Over moderately high heat, saute not more than five minutes.  Be sure to scrape any browned bits stuck to the pan.


Salt to taste and serve with Parmesan, either already grated in a small serving bowl or presented whole accompanied by a grater, which is the Italian familial way.


When I hear the cold wind whistling past the kitchen window or if I feel a bit unsettled or if I just, oh, I don't need any reason to make this cheerful, comforting, and yummy dish!

In the garden, I see signs of spring--daffodils and sweet violets--that coincides with what Edith Holden saw in Edwardian England during March in 1906.  Her quote from Shakespeare is sublime:

Daffodils, that come before
the swallow dares,
And take the winds of March
with beauty.

Once my nursery order arrives, I will be sowing all those beds!

Her March 20 entry: 

Went to Daffodil field again;  The buds are just breaking into yellow.  Found two Thrush nests, both in holly bushes; one nest was empty, the bird was sitting on the other.  She looked at me with such brave, bright eyes, I could not disturb her, much as I would have liked a peep at her speckled blue eggs.
 
Sweet violets being gathered for making candied violets.

Holden's watercolour of sweet violets is one of the best illustrations in her diary.  She caught sweet violets' demeanour, charm, and communal identity in sure but graceful strokes.


Holden's Shelley quote captures my present experience well:

And the Spring arose on the garden fair,
Like the Spirit of Love felt everywhere;
And each flower and herb on Earth's dark breast
Rose from the dreams of its wintry rest.
The snowdrop and then the violet,
Arose from the ground with warm rain wet;
And their breath was mixed with sweet odour sent
From the turf like the voice and the instrument.

Influenced by the rainy, windy late winter, Dayo has developed a ritual. When the banging of the shutters and flapping of the more flimsy parts of the pergola gets to him, he whooshes into the sous sol, bounds up the inside stairs straight to the bedroom, settling down a bit on the bed.  The bedroom shutters then bang against the outside wall, and Dayo sharply turns his head to make sure the wind has not followed him.


He relaxes again a bit and realises, oops, I have not yet clean my muddy paws and gets right down to that pressing task, a chore I wish he tended to before he jumped on the bed!


Soon after he notices a general wash is in order.


Suddenly he feels a nap coming on and soon all is peaceful on the furry front--for the time being, that is.


À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS

Excerpts from Holden's Dairy for November, January, February.

    Tuesday, 26 February 2013

    Tarted-Up: A Leek/Apple/Thyme Appetiser!

    The French are very fond of regaling their guests with a pre-dinner apéritif which consists of a beverage, usually alcoholic like kir or/and some savoury tidbits, either hot like gougeres or cold like a selection of nuts/crackers. Since the French like to spend time in the kitchen doing it right, the guests need to be able to stave off their hunger without spoiling their appetite so when the cook finally makes an appearance, somewhat stressed, though attractively so, with some flour on their person here and there and a few strands of hair out of place, they will not regard him as the main dish!  Just as importantly, pre-dinner drinks and snacks serve as a means to encourage conviviality.


    Meanwhile the potager is brimming over with plump leeks and tons of thyme.




    So as not to succumb--not yet anyway--to the lure of a cheesy leek and bacon quiche, I have decided to go the appetiser route and instead wrangle up a rustic leek tart.

    Ingredients

    • Onions, sliced thinly, 1 cup*
    • Leeks, just the white & yellow parts, sliced thinly, 1 cup*
    • crème fraîche, approximately 1 heaping T
    • Butter, 1 T
    • Olive oil, 1 T 
    • Sugar, 1/4 tsp
    • Apple, Granny Smith, peeled, diced, 1/8 cup*
    • Lovage, diced, a few sprigs, or celery, diced 1/8 cup*
    • Thyme, fresh, minced, 1/2 tsp and sprigs for garnishing--it's worth the bother of getting fresh, any extra can be dried or frozen for future use.
    • Egg yolk, one mixed with a tsp of cold water for glaze
    • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
    • Mustard, Dijon, approximately 1.5 teaspoons
    • Short pastry, if buying, get the best you can, enough for a 9 inch round
    *cup is 8 oz, that is, American measure.

    Complete instructions on how to clean leeks thoroughly can be found in this past post.  Gather the ingredients and preheat oven to 425 degrees F.


    Put the butter and olive oil in a skillet over high heat until foaming--the olive oil will raise the burning point a bit, but still be careful not to burn the fat.   Toss in the sliced leeks and onions, finely chopped apple, and the sugar.  Stir over moderately high heat for a few minutes or until some edges of the onions and leeks are browned.


    Then lower the heat as much as is possible, add the lovage/celery and let carmelize for about 15-20 minutes, stirring from time to time.  The onions and leeks need not be fully carmelized as they are for French Onion Soup as they will spend some time in the oven also.


    Put them in a mixing bowl.  Add the thyme and the crème fraîche bit by bit as the mixture needs to be moist without being soupy--more or less than the suggested amount can be added to get the right consistency.  Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Let cool.


    Roll out the pastry on parchment paper to 1/8 thick and using a 9 inch pie plate as a template, cut around the edge of the plate with a knife.  Beat the mustard with a fork--to get it more fluid--and coat thinly the round with it, leaving an one-inch-wide brim around the perimeter.  Gather the scraps together into a small ball and put in the fridge.


    Spread the filling as evenly as possible.


    Fold the edge over, pleating it as necessary.  Apply the egg wash either with a pastry brush or with your fingers or with a piece of paper towel on the folded-over edges.  Using the edges of the parchment paper to carry it, put the tart on a shallow baking pan and place on the middle rack in the oven.


    Take out the small ball of dough gathered from the scraps.  Roll out and cut out small rounds to make biscuits which can be dusted with powdered sugar after bakingAnother approach is to pair two rounds on top of each other, with some raspberry jam spread between them.  Cut off a small round opening on the top, letting the jewelled colour of the jam show--a rough-and-ready version of a Linzer cookie.  Put them in the oven.


    Bake the tart for about 25 minutes until golden brown, rotating it if necessary halfway through the baking time to ensure even browning.  The small rounds should take less time, around 15 minutes.


    I really liked how these turned out--fairly easy to slide off the serving plate onto individual napkins and truly tasty, a bit of tang, a bit of sweetness with a bright note of herb, luscious without being overwhelming.  They were best served warm or tepid, as when they become cold, their zesty appeal is somewhat subdued.  Any extra can be frozen, thawed, and re-heated gently, though the crust seems to get crumbly.



    I dusted the biscuits well with confectioner's sugar; they reminded me of a baked version of Crusciki, a deep-fried Slavic pastry.


    Damp and soggy conditions continue in the potager. My shipment from the plant nursery has been delayed by inclement weather. I am patiently trying to prune and prepare beds for planting between bouts of rain.  The daffodils are in full bloom though.



    The buds on some bearded Irises are colouring.  There are already lots of sweet violets with their lush evergreen foliage in that part of the garden, and soon there will be bluebells and lilacs--blue on blue on blue on blue.  It's my favourite colour so I am not complaining!


    Dayo is happy with how good this warm, wet winter has been for the grass.  Yum!


    He also was very pleased with an art postcard sent from Tokyo by our favourite conceptual archivist, +Arthur Huang.  Apparently Dayo would have some competition from other felines as Tokyo has a huge cat population.  Arthur enjoys looking for such postcards among other things at craft markets, and one of his favourites is this one, which takes place monthly on the grounds of a shrine.


    Conceptual Archivist?  You must mean Conceptual Artist, no?  He is a Conceptual Archivist because he has coupled his conceptual art with his love of collecting personal artefacts.   Among other projects, you can keep up-to-date with his work-in-progress, Houses for Light at his website.

    Using several varieties of Japanese mushrooms, Arthur has adapted my recipe for mushroom soup à la forestièreHe is planning to make my minestrone soup soon.  If he can't get white beans or chick peas, he will substitute soy, fresh or dried.  In any case, I am sure it will be delicious!

    À la prochaine!

    RELATED POSTS

    Leek and Potato Soup
    Twice-baked Potatoes With Leek Stuffing

    Tuesday, 19 February 2013

    Not At All Mini: Minestrone!

    Though I enjoyed my mother's Czech dishes like holubky, spaetzle, palačinky filled with prune lektvar, and chrusciki, it was the 'exotic' foods I experienced when in Italo-American friends' homes in New York City that thrilled me.  My goodness, I would muse, where did they get such a big pot in which to simmer that red sauce all day long so the entire house knows of its fragrant existence?  How can they pile up so many small pastry puffs into a gooey, dripping-with-honey tower without it toppling over?  Why are those delectable, golden-brown, oh-so-tender slices of veal stuffed with aromatic sublimity called Veal Birds?

    Baby broccoli leaves, white beans, peas, garlic, basil, and bay leaves happily all came from the potager.

    Decades ago, I made my first minestrone; a boyfriend of Italian ancestry test-tasted it.  Being of a sweet disposition, he pretended it came out OK.  It was all right, if you were expecting a firm-textured casserole that happened to have minestrone flavours.  There was too much cabbage which acted like a crazed sponge, sopping up all available liquid.  Happily at present, I do make an excellent minestrone.


    Minestrone Soup
    (makes about 8-10 servings)

    • Tomato paste, 6 T
    • Carrot, one large
    • Potatoes, two large, all purpose
    • greens, sliced thinly, either kale, spinach, escarole, or young broccoli leaves, 1/2 cup*
    • beans, white, or chick peas, or a combo of the two, dried and cooked or canned, 1.5 cup* plus extra for additional mashing if you want a thicker, more heartily flavoured soup.
    • Peas or green beans, or a combo of the two, fresh or frozen, 1 cup*
    • macaroni, small, or vermicelli broken into pieces, 1/2 cup*
    • Parmesan, grated, for serving
    • Parmesan rinds, small, one or two
    • Bay leaves, two
    • Basil, fresh, chopped, 2 T, if dried, 1 T
    • Garlic, several fat cloves
    • cèpes, 2 small handfuls
    • 2.5 quarts of liquid, beef/veggie broth, water, and cèpes liquor
    • Olive oil, 2 T
    • Salt (I use about 2 T) and freshly ground black pepper to taste 
    • Optional:  cubed, cooked beef from making stock, about 2 cups*, if not you can increase the amount of beans and macaroni to make up the difference
    * American measure, that is, 8 oz

    Keep in mind making a good minestrone depends on all the chosen ingredients working well together not only in taste, colour, and texture, but they also need to be present in pleasing proportions to each other. Minestrone is a lovely medley of vegetables not a mere hodgepodge made with what you may have on hand.  Veggies past their prime are better used when they are all pureed to a creamy, highly seasoned consistency and honestly presented as doctored-up, left-over-veggie soup.  Certainly minestrone can be vegetarian, but I usually save some beef when making Borscht with Beef/Onion Dumplings along with some broth for our minestrone, though using cèpes and their liquor gives a 'meaty' flavour.

    Of course my recipe is not the only mixture of ingredients that works. Have your hand, and fun, with making up your own using your preferences.  The only caution is that the cruciferous family--yes, cabbage along with cauliflower, broccoli, turnips, Brussels sprouts--all give off an unpleasant taste and smell when boiled for more than five to ten minutes making reheating thawed portions problematic. Additionally, potatoes do not freeze well.

    If using dried beans, cover with water and soak overnight.  Next day boil until tender, about a hour.  Rinse either cooked, dried beans or canned beans under running water well as to lessen the amount of raffinose.


    Gather the ingredients.  Pour some boiling water over the cèpes to let soften.


    Peel, trim, and chop carrots.  Peel potatoes and chop.  Slice thinly the broccoli leaves/kale/escarole/spinach.  Press the garlic cloves or chop finely.


    Using a hand-held blender, fork, or potato masher, cream 1/2 cup of the beans, keeping the rest whole.


    Rinse the cèpes several times, reserving the liquid.  To begin the soup base, saute the crushed garlic in the olive oil.


    Pour in the beef/vegetable broth and cèpes liquid.  Add the tomato paste and the cèpes.


    Stir in the tomato paste until it is well blended. Toss in the Parmesan rinds, bay leaves, and basil.  Now that the basic soup is in place, the thing to remember is to add the various ingredients in stages--the ones needing the longest cooking go in first.  So start with the carrots as they are the hardest veggies.


    When carrots are almost tender, about 10 minutes, add the cubed potatoes and sliced greens.


    Add the mashed beans and stir to blend until the soup has some body.  Extra beans can be mashed to thicken even more the minestrone.



    When the potatoes are nearly tender, add the peas and the macaroni.


    As the macaroni is cooking, and if you are adding beef, coarsely chop the chunks.


    Check to see that all the veggies and the macaroni are indeed ready and then stir in the reserved whole beans and the beef to gently reheat for a minute or two.  Fish out rinds and bay leaves.  Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Serve with grated cheese.  It's pretty to look at, lovely to smell, and deliciously healthy to eat!


    In the potager, the mornings come usually with a light frost covering the garden, but by late morning, the sun is shining, the sky is blue and clear, and I am out and about, only needing a long-sleeved shirt to keep warm while pruning.  Yes, it is that daunting task at hand as the sap in the trees and bushes have not risen yet, therefore it is permissible to remove the plant equivalent of fingers, arms, and legs from our green friends.  

    Roses are the first to get their surgery--some of them still have their leaves from last summer because this winter was so mild.  Soon, the nine trees, mostly fruit-bearing along with numerous small-fruit and ornamental bushes/shrubs will get their turn.

    One of 20 rose bushes, before pruning

    After pruning

    Some daffodils are beginning to open, no matter how cautiously--their cheery yellow is like a splash of sunshine brightening their corner.


    However, I am still spending a lot of time in the sous-sol's potting room preparing for indoor sowing.  Dayo jumps on the window sill suddenly when he has something important to discuss.


    He of course realises I can't hear what he is saying very well through the closed window so he waited attentively for me to open it.


    He obviously wanted to check if the potted bougainvillea is overwintering OK which it is.  Whew!


    À la prochaine!

    RELATED POSTS

    Basic Pruning Information
    How to prepare cèpes