Thursday, 8 August 2019

Easing Into Late Summer 2019

All that frenzied, early morning watering done during the canicules (heatwaves), one in June, the other in July, paid off. The garden has held on to most of its lushness. The basket of lobelia which was sowed early spring still captivates as it moves gently with the breeze under the pergola and looks that it will remain doing so through August and September. Perhaps a moderate trim, about one third up from the bottom, will be in order to keep it looking fresh.


Sitting in the pergola's low recliner enables my seeing a nice slice of sky framed between two spruces located on a neighbouring business property and the tops of two pots, each placed on an upturned urn, flanking the start of our back garden's central path.


The pot closest to me is one of black-eyed Susan vine nestled in a rose of Sharon which self-seeded very close to an ivy-covered pillar. A much more robust rose of Sharon is in the right-hand corner of the below photo.


After doing some strenuous gardening like digging up two sunny beds of mid-season Rosabelle potatoes (yellow flesh, pink skin, all-purpose), I rush to the shady pergola and collapse on a lounge chair, removing my sun-protection gear of hat and glasses.


As I catch my breath and cool off with a glass of iced coffee, I can see the lovely blue and green glass balls placed in the blueberry pot situated across from me on the sunny part of the patio. They are hand blown and originally were used to float fishing nets. The blue one most likely is from Norway and the green one from Japan. The former was bought in a Grenoble flea market twenty years ago and the latter from an Oregon shop ten years earlier than its Norwegian companion. Both of these breakaway floats took decades to reach French and American shores. They managed not to shatter during our many relocations. This was the season they were liberated from a dusty sous sol corner, cobwebs wiped off, and washed with the garden hose. They are happy and so am I.


Part of my rest is an amble around the house.  The pergola flanks the west side, so up I go and say hello to pots of lobelia on a series of grilled sous sol window sills.


Making a sharp turn at an intersection of the side and front gardens, I mosey on up the front stairs leading to the entrance balcony. On the way I stoop to get a whiff of the fragrant, cascading tuberous begonia comfy on a small sous sol window sill.


Onto the balcony where pots of lobelia and Japanese holly are doing well.


The lobelia is flourishing in its big container.


Back down the stairs I go and make a sharp right onto the small, undulating path just shy of the overhanging balcony where I see late-blooming lavender 'Hidcote Giant' on the left and a pink hydrangea on the right. This lavender is much taller than 'Hidcote' which finished putting out its blue spikes a month ago. The taller variety hasn't bloomed much since our arrival ten years ago. I had blamed the dearth of flowers on its somewhat shady location. Since I started watering consistently and everywhere last summer, boy, what a flower display this month of August! Almost as abundant as the shorter bushes. Don't ever underestimate the power of water for a garden. Further down, across the driveway, is a potted collection of shade-loving gardenia, tuberous begonia, hellebore, and various heucheras with differently coloured foliage from lime green to paprika sheltering themselves from the sun under a cherry plum tree and a box elder. Mostly shady, that is, until late afternoon, when that spot gets a sudden burst of short-lived sunlight.


À la prochaine!

RELATED LINK

Glass From The Past | Fishing Floats Documentary


Thursday, 1 August 2019

Deep Fried Green Beans With Blue Cheese Dip

Luscious green beans keep coming in. They are young, smooth, slender and succulent, that is, with hardly any bumpy beans forming within the pod which is perfect for tender, battered fries. Don't wrinkle your nose in health-conscious disdain at deep frying because when it is done right, the food is closer to being steamed.


How to do deep frying correctly? Choose oil that is fresh, but add a large slosh of used oil. Heat it to the right temperature which is around 177 to 190 degrees C  (35o to 375 degrees F). No thermometer? Then insert a wooden skewer or end of a wooden spoon into the oil from time to time. Eventually a steady stream of tiny bubbles will be noticeable at the skewer's/spoon's bottom tip which takes about ten minutes. Make sure excess oil is swabbed off the fries with paper towels before serving. The fluffy quality of the batter which resembles bits of baking powder biscuits/scones sticking to the green beans is that way because baking powder is one of the ingredients.

For two ample servings, the ingredients are in bold: For a large fistful or two of trimmed and rinsed green beans, beat an egg with a dash of vinegar and a large pinch of baking powder. Put in a shallow bowl. Mix 1/2 cup of white flour with salt and freshly ground black pepper (I used a couple of large pinches of each) to taste on a plate. Dip all the beans at once into the egg and then scoop them up and heap on the plate with flour. Toss till mostly coated. Repeat, that is, toss them again in the egg mixture followed by the seasoned flour. Add more flour and seasonings if necessary. I used my fingers for mixing but the tossing and coating can be done with two forks. A heavy bottomed pot or in my case a cast iron casserole was filled with 5 cm (2 inches) of vegetable oil (no olive please as it doesn't get hot enough without smoking). Heat to the right temperature using a thermometer or with the trick described above. Tip the battered beans into the hot oil and fry for around four to five minutes or until golden brown. Fish out with a metal mesh strainer or a metal strainer spoon. Drain on paper towels. A few of the fries will stick together and can be coaxed apart. I prefer some clumping, more bang for the taste buck!


The fries are fine are their own, especially if well seasoned, but kissed with the blue cheese dip, oh my, another realm of pleasure is for the taking. For the dip, mix two heaping tablespoons of crème fraîche into two heaping tablespoons of  well-mashed, good quality blue cheese (I used Bleu d'Auvergne) and add enough cream (I used 3 T) to get the desired consistency. The final blending can be done with a stick mixer. If by hand, blend any lumps by mashing them against the side of the bowl with a spoon.


These were delicious and fun to eat. The texture is a cross between crunch and soft scone. The salty dip brought out the sweetness of our garden's green beans. The ingredients for both the fried green beans and dip can be increased to make a bigger quantity.


À la prochaine!

Thursday, 25 July 2019

French Cheese: Roquefort

Roquefort, a sheep milk cheese, has been in the spotlight since Charlemagne chose it to be his favourite and late medieval French kings gave this culinary marvel special status which was way before the Enlightenment philosopher Diderot decided to plonk the title of The King of Cheesesdon't tell Roquefort, but quite a number of cheeses are considered kingly including Parmesan and Comtéupon its unsuspecting head. The eponymous village and surrounding area certainly needed a royal boost as it was described as being the land where neither vineyards nor corn will grow. By the 20th century Roquefort was enjoying international appreciation.

The famous Combalou caves lined with fleurines (fissures) which ensure the air is kept consistently fresh and cool are referred to as the cabanes, hence the women employees are called the cabanières. To this day some work is mostly done by women because wrapping the cheese for affinage requires a gentle hand. However, in large part, the manufacture is highly technical and mechanised, but without violating any of the strict parameters necessary to keep its special designation.

Nuts and dried fruit in general go well with cheese. A totally fabulous way to present that tasty duo with Roquefort is to serve fruit/nut cake with it.


With that in mind, I went ahead and ordered such an item from The Simply Delicious Cake Company situated in Shropshire, UK. Unlike them I can be immodest and say that their name could conceivably be replaced in a New York minute with a way more appropriate one of The Mind-Blowing Delicious Cake Company. Among their many offerings is a fruit cake just for cheese. This masterpiece contains figs, dates, raisins, apples, and apricots with walnuts and ground almonds thrown in for good measure and is held together by a nearly skeletal structureno skimping on fruit and nuts at this bakeryof moist, butter-rich cake. Though sweetened with brown sugar and molasses which deepens its fruity, nutty flavours even further, it isn't sweet enough to grace a cup of tea. But it is a perfect companion for cheese, especially cheddar and blue cheese.


France is in the middle of its second canicule, that is, heatwave, for the season. One advantage? It does not take long to bring Roquefort to room temperature! Like all good companions, the cake brings out the best in the Roquefort, and the Roquefort does the same for the cake. Saltiness and sweetness are perfect foils, but also the comforting solidity of the cake takes on the crumbly tanginess of Roquefort like a champ.

Roquefort makes an easy and wonderful dip for crackers and crudités. Mash it with some crème fraîche and enough cream to get the desired consistency. The dip also can be mixed into pasta. With all the green beans streaming in from the potager, a quick meal lately has been a salad of green beans, capers, Roquefort, and chunks of French bread, all tossed together with olive oil, vinegar, salt, and freshly ground black pepper.

Le Livre du Fromage (Éditions des Deux Coqs d'Or, 1968) advises that all wines go well with Roquefort with the exception of sweet ones so if you are considering champagne go brut. But for a sublime pairing, choose from the great red wines like Pape ClémentChâteauneuf du Pape, Chambertin, Clos Vougeot, and Haut-Brion.

À la prochaine!

Related Posts

Saint Agur Bleu

Comté

Coulommiers 

Pont-l'Évêque

Maroilles

Reblochon
Bleu d'Auvergne
Cantal
Bresse Bleu


Related Link

The Simply Delicious Cake Company's website

Thursday, 18 July 2019

Blueberry Cake Muffin Lemon Ice Cream Sandwiches

A tablespoon of freshly grated lemon zest is the ingredient that pushes this simple, no-churn ice cream into the realm of perfection. The lemon juice also plays a role as it coagulates, that is, thickens the mixture, ensuring that no churning is required for a creamy but light texture. This ice cream can be started in the evening, allowing time for a few hours of freezing, and then a brief stirring. The rest of the freezing can happen overnight.


Ingredients
makes about a litre, adapted from Dori Sanders
  • Lemon zest, finely grated, 1 T
  • Lemon juice, freshly squeezed, 1/4 cup (60g) (from about 2 lemons)
  • Sugar, 1 cup (200g)
  • Salt, big pinch
  • Heavy cream, 1 cup (235g)
  • Whole milk, 1 cup (245g)
  • Blueberry cake muffins (my recipe is here)
  • Fresh blueberries for garnishing

The zest which is just the yellow part (be careful not to include the white underpart) needs to be finely grated or minced so its presence is hardly detected, except as refreshing bits of goodness.


Put sugar, zest, juice, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Whisk till blended.


Pour milk and cream into a measuring pitcher/cup/jug. Whisk to blend and add gradually, all the while whisking, to the zest/juice mixture. Whisk for about two minutes or until you can't hear or feel the sugar scraping against the bottom of the bowl.


Pour into a square, metal cake pan or in my case a rectangular metal bread pan. Cover tightly with foil and freeze. After three hours, uncover and stir, making sure you scrape off the frozen parts adhering to the sides and corners of the pan. Recover and refreeze until it is firm which took about three hours for my freezer. Any surplus can be stored in a lidded, plastic container in the freezer.


Spread a thick layer on the bottom of a split muffin and top with the other half. Sprinkle with fresh blueberries.


It melts fairly fast which is a delight as it soaks the muffin with all its delectable glory.


Don't hesitate to scoop out more ice cream in order to do justice to the rest of the muffin!


À la prochaine!

Thursday, 11 July 2019

Niçoise Inspired Couscous Salad & Ginger Strawberry Slushie

The garden is turning out tons of succulent green beans. Since there's canned tuna, olive oil, and capers in the larder; eggs, leftover couscous, and a half of lemon in the fridge; those ridiculously abundant green beans plus fennel the herb in the garden, I say a refreshing salade composée is in order. The French in general don't do mixed/chef salads, instead they refer to any fresh greens as les salades and will often serve just raw leafy vegetables following the main course for cleansing the palate. Salade Niçoise which originated in the French city of Nice varies from household to household and restaurant to restaurant and can either be a composed or tossed salad. Ingredients often include green beans, tuna, and hardboiled eggs, hence the inspiration for my couscous salad. Other additions can be potatoes, anchovies, olives, bell peppers, les salades, and tomatoes. What's there to drink? As a majority of our garden strawberries were macerated in sugar till a ravishing ruby-coloured syrup formed and then popped in the freezer, a Ginger Strawberry Slushie is a perfect accompaniment to the brilliantly green beans.


To compose this salad, spread evenly the couscous on a plate. Mound the flaked tuna in the centre. Then do the green bean cross, that is, two lines of the beans at right angles to each other. Put four halves of hardboiled eggs in the spaces between the beans. Sprinkle on the minced fennel, capers, and olive oil. Season with freshly ground black pepper and fleur de sel. Garnish with fennel sprigs. Top with a twisted thin lemon slice. Serve the remaining lemon with the salad so it can be added just before eating because acid turns the beans to an unattractive grey.


The eggs were boiled for eight minutes, so less than the usual ten. They were nicely gooey.


For about a litre of slushie, smash with a meat mallet two cups of frozen, sugared strawberries put in a ziplock bag. Place the contents along with a large pinch of powdered ginger in a stick blender's container with some cold water and additional sugar if preferred. Blend. For each serving pour in a good slosh of cream. A lovely beverage indeed because it keeps cold as the frozen strawberry bits melt slowly. Its starting out first thick and quite frosty and then gradually becoming thinner while staying pleasantly cool provides an interesting textural experience. And the heavy cream laces its smoothing richness throughout.


À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS

Our trip to Nice and Hyères
Socca, a chickpea flatbread from the south of France
Caprese Socca
Socca Croustillant with Tomatoes, Yogurt & Walnut Basil Pesto

Thursday, 4 July 2019

Early Summer Garden 2019

Though the weather is cooler than the recent Official Canicule (heat wave), it's still HOT. Therefore I am watering the garden daily in the early morning and seeking refuge under the pergola along with a hanging basket of multi-hued lobelia or in our house. Your house you say? Yes, it stays cool because of our keeping to the recommended protocol for stone houses: keep both shutters and windows closed during the day but at night while keeping the shutters closed, open the windows.


The delicate blooms of lobelia present themselves as a flurry of stars or fireflies or dust motes in a sun beam depending upon flights of imagination. They flutter overhead as we recline in lounge chairs made even more cushiony with throw pillows. That basket was gifted to me more a quarter of century ago, tagged along with us from country to country, until this spring when I noted there was a suitable hook already securely fixed to one of the pergola overhead beams which jogged my memory of the basket, now covered with cobwebs in the sous sol and sans the original chains. I went ahead and sowed shade-loving lobelia indoors late winter thinking I could make do with cord instead of chains. The material I used broke, the rope The Calm One then strung up didn't, but he thought that it would eventually break so he trotted off to the local DIY place and got some chains. It was worth every bit of trouble as it is just sublime to see.


After preparing a bed for sowing carrots, I rushed to the pergola for some relief, removing my hat to let the breeze have its way with my hair, and sipped some iced coffee.


Across the way, sitting on the uncovered part of the patio, is a pot of black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata) and a bordeaux-red ivy geranium which is waiting to be placed out in the front garden when it has filled out enough.


Down the central path, on the right, is the sprawling blackberry bush. It needed to be staked and now the berries are no longer brushing the grass so they won't rot or get mowed down before I can pick them. I see a blackberry roly poly⁠—shortcake dough brushed with butter and spread with sugared berries, rolled up, topped with more berries, baked, and served with whipped cream⁠—in its future.


The strawberry patch has slowed down considerably but is still putting out a dessert bowl of berries weekly.


Daylilies are called that because each bloom lasts just a day, but look at the number of buds! This variety's name is El Desperado. It has golden yellow flowers with a burgundy centre and edge.


Another daylily, a potted Stella de Oro which is a reblooming variety, is keeping an equally golden Thunbergia alata company on a double sous sol window sill. It's good they both can take on a full frontal sun, because that window faces south. The tuteur is one of the old dried seed pods stuck on sticks that we found stored in a wood cupboard under the indoors barbecue. If that hanging basket can be brought to life, so can these sticks!


The hydrangea on the other hand is tucked in the front garden which faces north. It's just as happy as its sun-loving peers. I appreciate that aspect of gardening so much, that is, finding the right place so each plant can thrive.


Another golden sun worshiper is this rose.


À la prochaine!

Thursday, 27 June 2019

Book Review / The Golden Thread: How Fabric Changed History by Kassia St Clair

Ms St Clair presents a historical account of humanity not through the lenses which are often used such as war, exploration, and communicable diseases, but through the perspective of thread and cloth, of which the making has been done in a large part by women, so much so, that the word spinster, one who spins, once was laudatory, meaning a financially independent woman. Since the nature of fabric is ephemeral and historians often write from a masculine perspective, the key, pervasive, interlocking influence of spindle, needle, and loom has been overlooked.

This fascinating book is divided into mostly chronological chapters starting with the prehistoric era right up to the present. Linen, silk (worm, spider, and mollusc), wool, cotton, silver/gold threads, and synthetics are all discussed and not just the processes by which they are made, but also how the fruits of this labour-intensive work have manifested in every strata and activity of society, be it domestic, cultural, artistic, technological, commercial, scientific, and martial.

Blue-flowering flax which is used in the making of linen (stock photo)

Her writing has a buoyant, friendly touch as it delivers the goods of information delineating her theme, and at times shines with brilliance as when she describes Vermeer's painting, The Lacemaker : 
A girl looks down at the work between her hands, utterly absorbed. She's seated in a spare, pale room - so bereft of detail that it's difficult to say whether it is a room at all or a void, hollowed out by her singular focus. Her dress is a glowing lemon shade; her hair is gathered away from her face in a coif of plaits and large ringlets. Our eyes follow hers: down between her fingers to the 'V' formed by a pair of bobbins she is using to create a piece of lace . . . Vermeer's luminous canvases, previously so sought after, furred with dust in his studio as the wealth of his erstwhile patrons evaporated like puddles on a hot day.
The significant drawbacks of synthetic fabric manufacturing are unsparingly presented in terms of pronounced damage done to workers' health and nature, all so we can have disposable clothing. Made for fickle fashion and rapid turnover beneficial for corporate profits and their shareholders, these clothes may make the wearer feel good for a short time, but in the long run, it's a net negative for everybody.

The Golden Thread is packed with intriguing quotes, accounts, and informational background that it is near to impossible to pick just one area upon which to elaborate. For me it was a tug of war between space voyage garments, especially regarding moon exploration and spider silk. Well, those spiders yanked that rope so hard, they won. Not surprisingly as they have been inspiring humans since early times. The Greek philosopher Democritus noted that seeing spiders spin their egg sacs and weave webs most likely spurred us in the direction of doing something similar. Spiders also probably influenced the making of nets, lures, and traps.  If that wasn't enough, dressings made from spider silk have demonstrated antiseptic qualities.

Harvesting spider silk goes back quite a ways especially across Africa. However, to this day, the silkworm reigns supreme commercially. Problems include spiders eating each other, their requiring huge amounts of insects for nourishment (all those mulberry leaves that need to be gathered for silkworms comparatively appear less daunting), and extracting enough spider silk.

Botswanian spider silk hat with ostrich feather, late 19C

There are two kinds of spider silk, one for insect-catching webs and the other for threads which they use to travel through the air. The latter has extreme strength and is the focus of researchers. The trend at present is more to leave the spider alone and instead try to duplicate spider silk through chemical means.

Ms St Clair has written that kind of book which earns its place on your shelf because at any point you may feel bored, with your life, with yourself, with others, just pick a page, any page, and you will be transported into a world that is way more interesting and entertaining.

À la prochaine!

OTHER BOOK REVIEWS

Book review / Lolly Willowes by Sylvia Warner Townsend

Book Review / Against Empathy by Paul Bloom

Book Review / The Tulip by Anna Pavord


Book Review / The Asshole Survival Guide: How to Deal with People Who Treat You Like Dirt by Robert I. Sutton


Book Review / Florike Egmond's An Eye For Detail: Images of Plants and Animals in Art and Science, 1500-1630


Book Review / Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook: Artisanal

Baking From Around The World by Jessamyn Waldman

Rodriguez with Julia Turshen


Book Review/The Confidence Game: The Psychology Of The Con And Why We Fall For It Every Time By Maria Konnikova


Book Review / The Faith of a Writer: Life, Craft, Art by Joyce Carol Oates


RELATED LINKS

The Golden Thread at Amazon

Kassia St Clair at Twitter

British Museum Botswanian spider silk hat with ostrich feather