Tuesday, 29 January 2013

What to Do With 'Les Restes'?

In France, frugality is well appreciated in the kitchen, and there are traditional ways of handling leftovers, or les restes*Hachis Parmentier* is such a dish.  Any extra meat from a roasted joint can be used, but because I recently pot roasted a leg of lamb and because we both love the British dish, Shepherd's pie, minced lamb then it will be.


Antoine-Augustin Parmentier revolutionised the eating habits of the French by cleverly convincing them that potatoes were a palatable comestible though at that time it was considered as food fit for hogs:

...surrounding his potato patch at Sablons with armed guards to suggest valuable goods — then instructed them to accept any and all bribes from civilians and withdrawing them at night so the greedy crowd could "steal" the potatoes.

Parmentier simply means topped with browned mashed potatoes.  The only differences I can see between Hachis Parmentier and Shepherd's Pie are different flavourings, and for the meatier Parmentier, the mashed potatoes often get sprinkled with bread crumbs while vegetables like carrots and peas stretch out the meat in Shepherd's Pie.  My recipe is a cross between the two approaches.


With the remaining leftovers of the pot-roasted leg of lamb which consisted of some meaty bones, I made Scotch Broth.


Oven casseroles and hearty soups with their comforting warmth and appetising fragrance lend a cosy, satisfying feel to any homeChez nous, Dayo contributes to this sentiment by snuggling contentedly into an exceedingly fluffy duvet.


These are both easy and simple dishes to make, but also nourishing and very tasty.  For the Shepherd's Pie, the first thing to do of course is to peel potatoes and then cut them into quarters.  A medium-large tater suffices for each serving plus add another one for the baking pan. 

That's my new ceramic knife in the below photo--beautiful and what a slicer!  It's an inexpensive brand, and I was apprehensive per my research that it would chip easily.  So far I have only used it for what it is made for, which is slicing. After a month of careful use, still no chips.  I had no idea how tiring it was using a regular knife for slicing veggies!


Put the potato chunks in a  roomy pot to allow easier mashing/beating and cover them with water. Put the lid on and bring to a boil, and then lower to a simmer and cook until tender, around 15-20 minutes--a tip of a sharp knife should slide easily right into the centre.  While they are boiling, start on the lamb filling (see below).  Drain the taters and on low heat, shake the pot for about a minute to dry them out.


While maintaining the low heat, add a tablespoon or two of butter and mash the potatoes well.  I recommend the type of masher below because it actually rices the potatoes right in the pot.


Season to taste with salt/freshly ground black pepper and add more butter if that is your wont.  The topping needs to be stiffer than regular mashed potatoes so only add some milk if your potatoes are very mealy and dry.  What I do in that case and also when making regular mashed potatoes, is to push the potatoes aside in the pot and pour in some milk--raising the heat and tipping the pan so only the milk heats.  It saves a pot that way as milk needs to be warm so as not to make lumps.  I lower the heat and finish off by beating with a wooden spoon or a large balloon whisk to get a smooth, creamy mass.  Turn off the heat.


To make the lamb filling, chop finely the leftover lamb.  A cup of lamb makes a serving.


In a pan, add the chopped lamb, about a quarter of a cup of left-over lamb pot roast gravy for each serving, a smashed, fat garlic clove, and a large spring of rosemary. 


Preheat oven to 400 degrees F/205 degrees C.  Gently simmer covered for about ten minutes so the mixture can thicken slightly.  But be careful not to make the lamb stringy by cooking for too longAdd salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Fish out the garlic cloves and rosemary.  Put the filling in a suitable-sized oven dish and start spooning the mashed potatoes around the edges first. 


Using a fork, 'knit' the spoonfuls of mashed potatoes together.


Make a pattern using the fork.  I mark striations in one direction followed by ones made at right angles, and then ones made on the diagonal, ending with a run of the fork all around the edges to seal in the filling.  The goal is to rough up the surface to encourage a nice, golden-brown crust.  For a fancier effect the potatoes can be decoratively piped onto the filling.  Dot with butter to increase browning.


Bake for about thirty minutes until the top is golden brown and crusty.  The casserole could be placed under the broiler to increase its crustiness.  This dish is comfort food at its most basic.  If the filling is on the liquid side, wait about five minutes before serving.


For the Scotch Broth, you need just a few ingredients: 1/2 cup of barley, a chopped medium onion, two chopped carrots, a chopped stalk of celery or lovage, and of course the left-over meaty bones--when carving the original roast, I leave about at least a couple of servings on the bone.  These amounts make about four servings.


Place the lamb bones along with the barley in a soup pot, add about 1 1/2 to 2 quarts of water, just enough to cover the bones and simmer with the lid on for about 90 minutes until the barley is tender.  Remove the bones and separate the lamb from it.  Cut the lamb into bite-sized pieces and reserve.  Skim off any scum from the surface of the soup.  Saute the chopped onions, carrots and celery/lovage in some butter in a skillet for ten minutes.  This step causes the carrots to release some colour into the butter which is a truly important cosmetic touch as the finished soup will then have a golden glow instead of resembling dishwater.


Add the veggies to the soup and cook another ten minutes until they are tender.  Add the chopped lamb and heat gently for a minute or two.  Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.  It's a lovely soup--glistening with a hint of gold and soothing with a touch of silky milkiness.


The weather has been mostly unseasonably warm this January except for a snow flurry or two.  The garden therefore thinks it's time to bud and sprout and flower.

Roses needed to be pruned YESTERDAY!


It's looking that there will be daffodils by early February!


The gold-dusted Aucuba putting out its first growth for the new season

The warm weather prevented the perennial geraniums from dying to the ground

With the winter carrots, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts completely harvested, there is only leeks left to provide fresh veggies.

A good part of the leek is buried so as to blanch its succulent bottom part.

There is still a lot of onions and garlic in the cellier along with some frozen fruits and veggies like peas and strawberries.  But for the most part, the provisions harvested and processed from last season are winding down.  However, the early spring harvest is just around the corner as long as I prepare the beds and put in my nursery order. Then another active, sometimes frenzied--but always fruitful in some important way--garden year starts!

À la prochaine!


RELATED POSTS:

Pot Roast of Lamb

*French Pronunciations: 

Hachis  
Parmentier
Les
Restes
À la prochaine

Tuesday, 22 January 2013

For a Snowy Day: Two Warming Recipes!

The short winters in southwest France may have freezing temperatures, but historically are not snowy.  However, for the last several years there has been consistent snowfall--sometimes just a light dusting, and at other times, up to a half a foot. I like the white, fluffy stuff, it's beautiful!  En plus, it hushes the normal noise of traffic lending a softer feel to the quartier.

Wintry mornings make me think Oatmeal!  I made enough not only to have some for a warming, nourishing breakfast, but also so I could pan fry what was left over for breakfast next morning.

Triangles of oatmeal pan-fried in butter and topped with warm strawberry jam and yogurt

After breakfast it was time to care for the starlings as on this cold, snowy day, they needed assistance.  The ice in their bath was duly smashed with a hammer so I could fill up the shallow container with fresh water.  Their feeding dish was stocked with oatmeal flakes, raisins, and moistened, dry cat food.  They pay me back by performing almost daily murmurations conducted in the late afternoon.


Cat food you say?  It is a food loved by insectivores like starlings as it is high in protein.  Happily, Dayo enjoyed himself by prancing about in the brisk, freshness of a cold, snowy day and did not notice the huge platter of cat food in the back of the garden!


The garlic planted this past fall doesn't seem to mind the snow that much.  Look at those brave, green blades!


Soon it was lunchtime, and what better dish for such a chilly day than mushroom soup à la forestière thickened with crème fraîche and exuberantly garnished?

Garnished with sliced, raw 'rooms, crispy bacon, fresh chives, and French bread chunks.

For the pan-fried oatmeal, you need of course to make some oatmeal.  There are two things to know about making oatmeal:  1) use a big enough pot to prevent boiling over, and 2) simmer on low heat without taking your eyes off it.  Off course, you could just put it overnight in a slow cooker or even just a thermos without such precautions.

I cover several large handfuls of flaked oatmeal with milk (imparts all essential creaminess), add cinnamon, lots of raisins, a bit of salt and sugar, and simmer until done, about five minutes, stirring all the while.  I scoop out a serving, and top it with a nice pat of butter.  The pot with the rest of the porridge goes in the fridge.  Or if there is a lot, you can pack the extra into a small loaf pan which lends itself to making easy, even slices.

If you like your porridge plain, then you could mix savoury ingredients like minced garlic/onion, spices, herbs, even grated cheese into the extra oatmeal while it is still warm.  Then follow the instructions below for pan frying the slices--olive oil could be used instead of butter.  The topping could be yogurt with a touch of tomato paste beaten into it.

When cold, ease the solidified cereal out of the pot--a flexible spatula comes in handy--and trim off any raggedly bits and cut into pleasing shapes.  The slices need to be about an 1/2 inch thick. Beat an egg in a shallow bowl and put some flour on a plate.  Dredge the oatmeal pieces all over with the flour, and dip in the beaten egg.  Then dredge in the flour once again on all sides.


Melt a tablespoon or so of butter in a skillet, and brown nicely on both sides over medium heat.


While the oatmeal slices are frying, heat gently over a low flame several tablespoons of jam--I used strawberry but any other berry flavour would work along with peach or apricot with their cheery golden colour--in a small pot, or for savoury slices, make up some yogurt flavoured with tomato paste.


Arrange the slices on a plate, spoon some plain yogurt over them, and top with the warm strawberry jam, or for the savoury slices, the tomato-yogurt.  The sweet version has a delectable crust enclosing creamy oatmeal studded with raisins and spiked with cinnamon with a brightening splash of melted jam and a cooling dollop of yogurt.  Pas trop mal!

Mushroom Soup à la Forestière
makes 6-8 servings, any excess can be frozen

  • Onion, yellow, 1 medium, minced finely
  • Mushrooms, fresh, 2.5 lbs/1 kg, minced finely
  • Mushrooms, several caps for garnishing
  • cèpes, dried, a small gowpen (double handful!)
  • Butter, sweet, 4 T
  • Salt
  • Flour, wheat, white, 5 T
  • Liquid, combined water and cepes' liquour, 1 3/4 quarts/1650ml
  • Bouquet garni, fresh or dried, either tied or not.  (If not tied, you will have to fish out the bits!)
  • Crème fraîche, 1 cup*/25 cl
  • Garnishes:  bacon, French bread chunks, fresh chives 
*American cup measure, that is, 8 oz

In French cuisine, the addition of mushrooms which are harvested in forests like cèpes is designated as being à la forestière.  This mushroom soup has a pleasing earthiness, that is, a woodsy taste which I adore.  Start preparing the cèpes.  Finely mince the onions and gather your fresh/dried herbs.  Keep in mind a bouquet garni of fresh herbs will be larger than a dried one.  I used one large bay leaf, a long sprig of fresh thyme, and several fresh parsley springs.


Gently saute them in two tablespoons of butter over the lowest flame possible for about ten minutes or till they are soft, transparent, and yellow.  Be careful not to brown them.


Carefully wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel so as not to waterlog them.  Cut them in half, reserving a few caps for garnishing.


Finely chop the mushrooms via a food processor or by hand.  The finer they are minced the more flavour the soup will have.


Toss the minced fresh mushrooms along with the minced cèpes into the pot with the sauteed onions.  Add two more tablespoons of butter along with a teaspoon or two of salt to encourage the 'rooms to release their liquor and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes.  There should be loads of brown liquid of which will be absorbed by the flour you will now add.  Incorporate the flour thoroughly and cook for a minute or too for the flour to lose its raw taste.


Slowly add the water and the strained cèpe liquor until the soup is smooth.  Add the herbs.  Simmer, covered, for another 25 minutes.


About fifteen minutes before the soup is ready,  prepare the garnish by frying up some bacon rashers, tear some chunks from a loaf of French bread, slice the reserved mushroom caps, and snip some chivesThough all is covered with snow in the potager at the moment, a large pot of verdant chives happily flourishes in a warm, sunny spot indoors.


I highly recommend herb scissors which makes the job of snipping herbs, especially chives, a cinch.  The scissors, however, are pretty heavy as they are five pairs in one!




Fish out the bouquet garni, and using a stick mixer, blend the soup right in the pot and beat in the crème fraîche.  Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.


Garnish heartily.  Voilà!


This mushroom soup is tangy, rich, and aromatic and is even better the next day as the robust flavour only deepens!

Bon appétit!

Tuesday, 15 January 2013

Good Lasagne? It's the Sauce!

Lasagne, being a dish I adore, is something I have eaten in many restaurants and friend's homes in various cities and countries without ever having a truly bad version.  Therefore it pains me to admit that my own had always let me down; no matter what I did, whether if I made my own sauce, or if I upped the ante and made my own sauce with my own garden Romas, or if I used herbs fresh from my garden, or if I boosted the  Béchamel with Parmesan--nothing worked, at least not to my taste buds.  


We would dutifully eat it and not say much; oh, but did we discuss all the other lasagnes!  The lasagne at that restaurant, at that friend's party, what did they have that mine didn't, how did they get their oomph?  I didn't want to take the easy way out--some refuse to ask directions, while others refuse to ask what's in a recipe.  Though in general, I am not this obstinate about seeking culinary assistance.

After some time and various fine-tunings, it was when I substituted Toulouse sausage for the ground beef and put a lot of fresh basil and then put in some more basil, and then even more--it was alarming to see all those green bits floating hither thither in the pot--that suddenly it became a good lasagne.  Though there are many versions as delicious, I prefer mine because I know first hand the determined, unrelenting stubbornness that went into its creation.


Tomato/Sausage Sauce
makes about 3 quarts--sauce freezes well

  • Tomatoes, fresh Romas/plum or canned plum tomatoes (best brand you can get)--60 fresh/frozen Romas or about three 16 oz cans
  • Garlic, at least 3-5 fat cloves
  • Bay Leaf, one or two
  • Basil, around 1/4 cup* packed fresh leaves, or a heaping T dried
  • Parmesan rind, several small ones
  • Sausages, Sweet Italian or Toulouse, 10-12
  • Any tomato juice leftover from using fresh tomatoes
  • Tomato paste, several tablespoons up to a half of a tube
  • Olive oil, extra virgin, a T or two
  • Carrot, peeled, small, grated very fine
  • Salt to taste, I use about 1 T.
  • Freshly ground black pepper, about 1/8-1/4 tsp  

Since the tomato sauce is an ocean of flavour in which all the other ingredients are submerged, it's the key to a good lasagne.  The sauce of course can be made in advance and frozen--just remember to thaw it before the day you make the lasagne!  Choose the best Sweet Italian (or even better, Toulouse) sausages you can find.


Spilt the casings and in a heavy bottom saucepan (enamelled iron Dutch oven for example) saute in a bit of olive oil till lightly browned.


Remove the browned sausage bits and drain most of the fat out of the pan, leaving a scant tablespoon.  Smash lightly several fat cloves of garlic, peel them, and then put them in a garlic press.


Wash the Romas.

Yes, that is a lonely beefsteak tomato on the upper right! 

Remove any stems and cut the Romas in half.  If using canned Romas, then coarsely chop them either in a food processor or by hand.  Make sure you add all their juice/sauce into the pot.

That's the fat drained from the sausages in the glass!

Put the crushed garlic in the heavy-bottomed pot and saute in the remaining fat for a minute or two.  Then add the tomatoes, tomato paste (start with a few tablespoons and increase to get the thickness you want), basil, bay leaf, any leftover tomato juice, grated carrot (it will eventually completely dissolve, giving the sauce a bit of sweetness and body) and the Parmesan rinds.

Note the frozen tomato juice and basil.

Cover and simmer for about four hours.  Pick out the skins as they roll off the simmering tomatoes (not necessary of course if using canned tomatoes)


When finished, the sauce will be thick and redolent with a spicy flavour.  Remove the bay leaf and Parmesan rinds which can be eaten--they are quite delicious! Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.


Lasagne

  • Lasagne noodles, egg-based ones with rough texture are the best, 12
  • Tomato sauce, see above, 4 cups*
  • Mozzarella, sliced about an 1/8th inch, 18 slices
  • Parmesan, grated, 1 cup*
  • Parmesan Bechamel (see below)

Parmesan Bechamel

  • Parmesan, grated, 1/4 cup*
  • milk, 1.5 cups*
  • Butter, 4 T
  • flour, 5 T
  • nutmeg, 1/8 tsp
  • salt to taste 
* American measure, that is, 8 oz

Using a large-enough, shallow pan or dish that can be covered, soak the lasagne noodles in boiling water for about five minutes.  Carefully remove them by sliding a thin spatula under each and place in a large bowl of cold water.  I work in batches of two, layering them in an oven dish as I assemble the lasagne.


Grate the Parmesan (make 4 equal piles), slice the mozzarella (3 piles of 6 slices each for a total of 18).  Spread a few tablespoons of sauce on the bottom of a suitable oven dish.  Place a layer of three overlapping noodles.  Spread about 6 tablespoons of sauce, then layer with 6 mozzarella slices and sprinkle with one pile of Parmesan.


Repeat for a total of three layers of cheese and sauce.  Finish with a fourth layer of noodles.


Top with the remaining of the sauce (if more than 6 T are left, then save the rest as the lasagne should not be too soupy) and spread evenly.


Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F.  Gather ingredients for the Parmesan Béchamel.


Melt the butter over low heat and add the flour, stirring for a minute or so.



Slowly add the milk, stirring all the while still sauce is smooth.  Any lumps can be beaten out with a wire whisk.  Add the Parmesan and nutmeg.


Stir until all the cheese is melted and sauce is very smooth.  Salt to taste.


Pour ribbons of the sauce--you may need to whisk it just before pouring to increase liquidity--on the layered noodles and sprinkle the remaining pile of Parmesan on top to encourage browning.


Bake for about a half an hour at 350 degrees F if a creamy, custard-like texture is the goal. Bake longer if a crispier topping is desired.

Baked for about an hour

Wait for about five-ten minutes for the lasagne to solidify before serving.   This lasagne is shot through with a vividly flavoured, meaty tomato sauce and topped with a luscious, cheesy Béchamel resembling a savoury custard in texture.  It's quite good!

Bon appétit!

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