Tuesday, 19 November 2013

Chicken Soup Redux...and how to make bread crumbs & to poach an egg

Awhile back, I shared a wonderful version of homemade chicken soup on G+ which was brimming with assorted scraps from making pasta, succulent morsels of meat, wilted arugula, toasted breadcrumbs, Parmesan, and the pièce de résistance, a poached egg. That assemblage looked so pretty and made such an impression on me, I vowed the next time I made chicken stock I would have a go at this recipe.


Once the stock was reduced to make it exceptionally rich in taste, its consistency became that of soft jello. Thirty-two fluid ounces of stock suffices for two ample servings.


Since I use two whole chickens with which to make the stock, it was easy to reserve some nice white meat close to the bones.


The meat will be marked with some brown where it touched the bone. Using my fingers, I shredded about sixteen fluid ounces into small bits.


Since I do not make my own pasta--not yet that is--I used the inevitable and plentiful scraps left over when using packaged tagliatelle nests.


There is still spinach which was harvested from the potager in late spring in the freezer so I substituted that for arugula. Other possibilities would be escarole or kale or even the small leaves sometimes found on broccoli. A tablespoon of greens per serving is all that is required to spruce up both appearance and taste.

I can't remember the last time I bought a box of breadcrumbs. Not only will no bread go to waste if you make your own, they taste much better when you do!

Choosing French bread for the crumbs, I pulled out the tender part, leaving the crusts which were eventually slathered with butter and jam. Yum! Tear the bread in small pieces and process into small crumbs. Another method is grating a large hunk of bread (choose a coarser grater and/or the bread can be frozen).  (Or the crumbing part can be omitted and small pieces of bread toasted in the oven can be placed in a paper/plastic bag/between two tea towels and gently crushed with a rolling pin.)


Spread the crumbs evenly on a baking pan and put in a 250 degrees F/120 degrees C oven for about twenty minutes or until they are dry and crunchy, with a golden tinge. If a toastier crumb is desired, then bake a bit longer. They can be stored in an air-tight container for many months or in the fridge/freezer if the ambient environment is very humid.


Grate finely some Parmesan, about a heaping tablespoon for each serving.


Mix the cheese with the crumbs in even proportions and reserve.


Never having poached eggs before, I suspected I would have a little difficulty--the first one was overdone, the second was underdone, and the third was Goldilocks approved, that is, just right.

Crack carefully a very fresh egg without breaking the yolk into a small cup. My method is to rap gently an egg against the flat of the kitchen counter and while holding the still intact egg over a cup, I pull apart the egg at its slightly smashed part. To test an egg's freshness, submerge in water and if really fresh the eggs will lie sideways at the bottom.  Less fresh eggs will be more or less vertical and bad eggs will rise to the top.


Though adding a dash of vinegar to the simmering water to help the egg white to coagulate is often recommended, my personal preference is to omit it as the slight vinegary taste can be off-putting to some. In a shallow saucepan or a deep skillet, heat water just under boiling--many tiny bubbles will rise from the bottom with no large bubbles breaking the surface, if water is boiling bring it back to simmer by reducing heat--then  place the side of the cup right on the surface of the water and slip the egg into the water. Put on lid, turn off the heat but keep the pot on the burner, and let sit for four minutes until the egg white is cooked. Scoop out the egg with a slotted spoon. Any raggedly edges can be trimmed off. Repeat with remaining eggs, keeping already poached eggs in a covered, warmed dish. If you have an egg poacher, I envy you. However poached eggs are lovely and worth the effort.

When close to serving, simmer several handfuls of pasta in the stock for about ten minutes until very tender--pasta is gorgeous when engorged with stock. When pasta is done, add chicken and gently heat for a minute or two. To assemble, put the greens on the bottom of a small bowl and pour on the stock with noodles and chicken.


Float a poached egg on top and sprinkle with Parmesan/breadcrumb mixture. As I dug into this comforting, satisfying, and delectable soup, I was whimsically transported into a cozy kitchen somewhere in Italy where my kindly hosts asked if I wanted seconds. Here's hoping they will let me have thirds!


In the potager, the weather, though mild, has been pretty gloomy with lots of overcast skies.

A wood pigeon all by its lonesome

Recently as I was making my late afternoon rounds, I noted a decided chill in the air and knew it was finally time to make one last rose bouquet. Not only does it get dark earlier, it seems to get dark faster. Before I knew it, I could hardly see but the thorns let me know exactly where they were!

Pink Queen Elizabeth and  red & white stripped Ferdinand Pichard roses

My focus on preparing beds for early spring planting has been mostly thwarted by persistent rain which makes our silty soil impossible to till. Instead I am hanging out in my potting room in the sous sol, rummaging about, clearing up any mess, washing used plants pots, sharpening tools, pre-ordering my preferred varieties of potatoes before they get all sold out, and smelling the roses!

With a clean work table and some spare time, I now can fool around with my water colours!

À la prochaine!

Wednesday, 13 November 2013

Butternut-Squash Spice Cookies with Orange Icing

Our potager gave us numerous Butternut squash of various sizes.  The smaller ones are just enough to provide roasted chunks for the glorification of pasta or to add to gnocchi making those little lumps of goodness tantalise even more. The hefty ones lend their largesse to soups and pies.


Some people don't care much for veggies in general and are quite shocked to find them in their desserts. They add colour, texture, and most of all, taste -- yeah, yeah, nutrition also, but let's keep that our little secret. Carrots, sweet potatoes, winter squash, and pumpkins are usually interchangeable, perhaps with a few adjustments, for making delicious pies, sweet quick breads, cookies, and cakes. Butternut has a lighter flavour than pumpkin, but heavier than carrot or sweet potato. Roasting brings out its sweetness and nuttiness.


One way to to tackle the work flow of making these cookies is to reserve some squash roasted for other reasons.  The surplus squash can be frozen and thawed when needed for this recipe.

Ingredients
makes about 23, 3-inch cookies

Roasted butternut squash puree, 4 fluid ounces of prepared puree
Flour, all-purpose, 12 fluid ounces plus 4 T
Baking soda, 1 tsp (keep in mind if you are going to substitute ingredients, that in order for the soda to be activated, there has to be an acid ingredient like crème fraîche, buttermilk, yogurt, or molasses)
Cinnamon, 1/2 tsp
Nutmeg, 1/4 tsp (already ground is OK, but grating your own is much better)
Cloves, 1/4 tsp
Butter, unsalted, room-temperature, 8 T
Sugar, vanilla or plain, 8 fluid ounces
Egg, 1
Vanilla extract (if not using vanilla sugar), 1/2 tsp
Crème fraîche, 2 T
For the icing: 8 fluid ounces of sifted, powdered sugar, up to 4 T of freshly squeezed orange juice, 1/2 tsp of finely grated orange zest

To roast squash, preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Scrub and dry squash. Using a sharp, strong knife (ceramic knives are fantastic for difficult slicing), pare off a slice from each end. Placing the larger flat end securely on a surface, halve it lengthwise or cut it in two pieces first before halving it lengthwise. The latter is easier to do and small pieces roast faster.


Thoroughly scoop out the seeds with a sturdy spoon. Be sure to scrap off all fibrous bits. Seeds can be reserved and roasted with flavouring for delicious snacks and toppings.


Melt butter in a small saucepan. Coat each piece, place cut side down on a parchment-lined oven pan, and put in oven for about forty-five minutes.


While roasting, the squash emits an earthy and appetising fragrance. When done, they test via a knife tender all the way through, the skin is blistered and the flesh carmelised. 


Let cool and then scoop out the delectable squash. Mash well and reserve.


Start making the batter. Vanilla sugar is very popular in France, though vanilla extract is used also. To make your own vanilla sugar, put several used (washed and dried), split vanilla pods in a large jar of sugar and let steep for a few weeks.


In a large bowl, cream sugar into softened butter till it looks like mashed potatoes.  A stick mixer/stand mixer or a fork can be used. Manual labour will take probably about ten minutes while the electric helper will do it in three.


Add the beaten egg and mix well. Then stir in the crème fraîche and butternut squash puree until well blended.



Mix together the spices, flour, and baking soda in a smaller bowl.


Stir dry ingredients into wet, just mixing enough to moisten and to bring together.


Refrigerate for an hour for the dough to become more workable. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  Place rounded (not heaping!) tablespoons of dough on parchment-lined cookie pans.


While les petites gateaux (little cakes which is what the French call cookies) are baking, gather the ingredients for the orange icing and reserve as it needs to be made close to use since it hardens readily. Once the cookies are out of the oven and cooling on a rack, then stir the sifted powdered sugar, zest, and juice together.


Start with one or two tablespoons of juice and add more to get a dipping/dribbling consistency. I used four tablespoons.


Cookies are done when edges or slightly brown which is about twelve minutes. Let stiffen for a minute or two, and then lift with a spatula onto a cooling rack. If you don't have such a rack, remember to remove one from your oven before you heat it. When they are completely cool, either dip the top surface into the icing or dribble it onto the cookies while still on the rack (put a tray under the rack to catch any surplus). Let icing harden. If there is extra icing, you could make some filled cookies: split like an English muffin, spread the icing on the bottom, and put on the top half.


These cookies are wonderful with a rich, dense texture like cake while being crisp on the edges and bottom, a dreamy creaminess of pumpkin-like flavour/aroma, and sweetness tinged with tartness. They keep for about three days in an air-tight container at room temperature and longer in the fridge. They taste good warm, at room temperature, or cold. And if that was not enough, they can be frozen so one does not have to eat all of them quickly.

À la prochaine!

Tuesday, 5 November 2013

Off to La Rochelle, France!

The Calm One needing to attend a seminar held in La Rochelle, a historic port situated on the Atlantic, prompted the latest donning of my photojournalist's cap. On our arrival we were met with an overcast sky and bouts of drizzle. He set off for his training session* in one direction while I went in the opposite to see the Old Port. Invigorating, brine-scented gusts were having their way with flexible parts of moored yachts causing them to creak and flap.

The port which once did a global trade of salt and cognac is just a three-hour train ride from our Angouleme.

After snugly zipping up my fleece jacket, cosseting my hands in a pair of chenille gloves, and taming my wind-blown hair with a stocking cap, I set off to explore. Striding across the planked pedestrian section of an unassuming, small bridge, I happened to look down and noticed through wide cracks the roiling sea not far below. Spooked, I jumped into the traffic and then just as quickly jumped back. As it was just me who reacted in this way, I realised my startle reflex would put surprised kitten to shame.

The bridge is on the middle right

It spans a tidal basin with moored boats

Leaving the port behind, I could see a cement structure looming ahead of me. At first I thought it was a ramp for skateboarders but as I came close, I discovered it was a memorial (titled La Vague/The Wave) dedicated to not only to people lost at sea but also to oceanic riches available to humanity.

Christian Renonciat is the sculptor

This rock sampire (Crithmum maritimum) is flourishing far away from the relative calm of the port.


Shortly after, I saw way off in the distance what I later found out to be a large marina. Fancying momentarily these hazy, upright sticks were the birthday candles adorning a floating seaweed cake made for an ancient denizen of the Deep was as relaxing as bopping about while filling my lungs with fresh air.

The marina is beyond the seawall & black jetty

Perhaps it was this same watery inhabitant who in a fit of pique punched a hole in a nearby sign describing 'improvements' being done in its home.

That's a patch of grey sky visible through the hole

The harbour development meant I could go no further. Sitting down at a picnic area, I enjoyed my packed lunch of Beef/Onion Peirogi, Italian salami, and mustard.

The old town and port are off in the distance

Soon it was time to visit the Aquarium. The atmosphere was a calming and cozy one with mostly darkened rooms which somewhat resemble sea caves with the advantage of visitors not being in the same condition as the fish, that is, wet! Its comprehensive focus is on how differences in global oceanic habitats such as the kind of sea floor, frequency of tides, and nutritive content underscore the connection with the species found.

The seahorse has fascinated humanity since ancient times. Being in commercial demand because of its use in traditional Asiatic medicine, fifty tons of dried seahorses are sold each year. As there is little regulation regarding their capture, numerous species of seahorse could be in danger of extinction. The Aquarium biologists raise zooplankton from desiccated eggs as these amazing fish eat only live prey.


This stingray was a delight to watch as it swam about, often close to the plexiglass.  How could someone not love that face?

Disclosure:  Since the camera flash can irritate marine life, that feature needs to be turned off. Unfortunately I was unaware of this restriction

The tub gurnard is an intriguing fish with its complementary colours of blue and orange. When changing direction, its pectoral fins seemingly would unfold in waves of fluttering, transparent, blue silk.


While enjoying a brief rest on a bench, I listened to the lazy sloshing of water contained in the open Lagoon tank. Its gorgeous tropical species were showcased beautifully.


Though I learned many interesting aspects about aquatic nature such as fish swimming in schools have a lateral sensory organ orienting them to the position of nearby companions--and sadly also about our detrimental impact on said nature--I found it equally interesting to discover how such a challenging endeavour as running the Aquarium is accomplished. Each of the fifteen experts working there to maintain the sixty-five tanks must be able to dive.

In order to keep the three million liters of water in a good state, it is mechanically and biologically filtered each hour and then topped up weekly with two hundred cubic meters of filtered seawater transported via tanker trucks from a source close to the town. To make way for the new water, an equivalent amount is removed which is treated and returned to the port. If you visit La Rochelle, make sure you allow adequate time to take in the wonders of this excellent Aquarium.

Some think that to get a true sense of a town you need to visit its marketplace or its churches or its bars or even its cemeteries. I would suggest its railroad station, especially if seeking respite from a wind that would not quit. Have I mentioned the station is a very pretty one?


Choosing a seat under a lovely, nautical wall mosaic, I noted a strong whiff of cedar. The bracing fragrance belonged to a large wooden cabinet directly to my left which turned out to be a dry toilet.


This accessible-to-the-handicapped, sweet-smelling, self-contained, spacious, unisex unit can be placed anywhere. Instead of flushing, you scoop out some cedar flakes which are placed in the toilet after use. A wall dispenser contained a quickly drying, liquid soap for hand washing. Just before departing La Rochelle, I whipped out my Amazing Shrink Gun and reduced the best toilet in the world to pocket size so I could take it home. Well of course I did not do that as it would be theft!

The next several days were sunny and bright with clear skies. The old port once again beckoned.

Looking past one of the two tidal basins towards the two, portal-gate towers (on the middle right)

The islands of AixOléron,  along with Fort Boyard (where the eponymous TV show is filmed) can be viewed from these old fortifications. The Île de Ré has an almost Mediterranean climate and is a second home to many celebrities. Gourmet salt harvested from its coast is internationally known.

Tour Saint-Nicolas & Tour de la Chaîne: the open sea is beyond these two fortress tours

Ferries and charter boats travel between La Rochelle and the islands though their scheduling is reduced substantially outside summer months as is the bus service to the islands having bridges. The oldest lighthouse on the Atlantic coast, La Tour de la Lanterne is on the left in the below photo. At one time it also was a prison--there are over six-hundred graffiti etched into its walls by imprisoned pirates during a span of three-hundred years.


The old quartier is just off the port.


Once entering the old town through a stone portal, I headed towards Parc Charruyer, a pastoral stretch of green flanking one side of the historic sector.


Within a small area, I recognised many plants and bushes often found in North America like Amelanchia, Ceanothus, and Sumac. A placard explained that this Coin des Cousins (Corner of the Cousins) delineates the historical and cultural connection between Canada and France. Samuel de Champlain who was a local boy had a lot to do with this liaison.


A bakery close to our residential hotel was the source for continental breakfasts.

Unsalted butter, pain à l’ancienne, croissant aux amandes/crème pâtissière, coffee & tourist pamphlets

Pain aux raisins & pain au chocolat

On our last day, I returned to the Aquarium to see an excellent lobby exhibit opened to the non-paying public about sea mammals.

The glass-walled segment consists of the Tropical Rain Forest exhibit, Aquarium shop, and a restaurant with a  great  harbour view

The back of the Aquarium resembles a large boat assembled from driftwood and replete with portholes.

The landscape gardeners appropriately chose grasses and wild flowers

Sea mammals like whales, dolphins, and sea lions evolved from land mammal ancestors.

Bones of a sea mammal fin and bones of a human arm

Beached animals which usually are dead are the basis of investigation regarding their habits. Among the possible contents of their stomachs, otolithes from the ears of eaten fish contribute evidence of their dietary intake.


Sea mammals--as is every other living creature including ourselves--are consistently endangered by human activity. An example is that our plastic detritus can be eaten by some mammals.

The contents of this jar was removed from one sea mammal

To take advantage more easily of all the wonderful parks and trails, there is a network of bicycles available throughout the town for convenient pickup and return. The registration machines are powered by the sun.

Yelo=velo (bicycle) + yellow so a French/English coinage

A splendid autumn display of mums

Anybody who knows me well is probably wondering, How come you did not get lost? Lost beyond redemption? So lost that even a desperate mobile phone call interrupting The Calm One could not result in you being found? As a New Yorker used to a straightforward grid of streets, the winding alleys, ginnels, and snickets of European towns obliterate whatever meagre sense of direction I have. As soon as we left the train station upon our arrival, The Calm One designated it as a highly visible landmark that would keep me from disappearing forever into a labyrinth of cobblestones. The tower functioned as a pre-homing device: once there I knew how to get to our digs. It worked!

The present station whose construction was interrupted by World War I is the town's second

À la prochaine!

*The organization sponsoring The Calm One's teacher training seminar is Les Petites Débrouillards,  a non-profit group whose emphasis is to 'defog' science for schoolchildren, especially disadvantaged kids. It origins are Canadian dating back to the 1970s when acceptance/appreciation of science was fading. While I was out and about, he was learning how to build and launch water rockets among other things. It's hard to decide which one of us had the best time: the computer scientist/historian or the nature geek.

RELATED LINKS

How to make pain à l’ancienne, a slack dough bread very easy to do
Chardin's painting, The Ray
The official site for the La Rochelle Aquarium
The official site for La Rochelle, France

OTHER FRENCH EXCURSIONS POSTS

A short visit to Cognac
Off to Hyères
Montpon
Emmaus
Angouleme