Wednesday, 5 February 2014

Coffee Churros & Strawberry Coulis

Pâte à choux is the culinary version of the little black dress as it can be seen everywhere, at casual cocktail gatherings as gougères, at classy restaurants as profiteroles, and at street stands/country fairs as churros. Those who regard frying this dough as going over board are missing out on a fantastic taste experience. Since churros are often served as breakfast in some countries, I put the wake-up punch of a favourite morning beverage right into the pastry by tossing in some instant coffee.

 Sprinkled-with-cinnamon-sugar coffee churros making waves

As some may need convincing that this treat is not without merit, instead of the traditional chocolate dipping sauce I chose strawberry coulis for the churros unadorned with sugar. The fresh tang of the fruity sauce added a lighter touch. Berries from our own garden which were frozen from the summer harvest were used.

Those little nibs at the tops of the churros indicate that I am a novice at piping dough

I also made a baked version which was fairly good, resembling a slender eclair in texture and taste. But when fried, they have a supreme crunchiness and custard-like center that I find irresistible. I, like Pastry Joe, regard the pronounced negativity hurled at all things fried as being based more on misconceptions than anything else. If your oil is fresh (except for a tiny bit of old oil mixed in) and the temperature is hot enough, frying is more akin to steaming.

Ramrod-straight baked coffee churros dusted with icing sugar.

Ingredients
(makes about 40 4-inch long churros, about one-inch thick)

  • Water, 8 fluid ounces
  • Coffee, granules, freeze-dried, either caffeinated or not, 1.5 T
  • Butter, sweet, 5.3 T
  • Sugar, vanilla, 2 T (if using plain sugar, add 1/2 tsp of vanilla extract)
  • Salt, 1/2 tsp
  • Flour, all-purpose, 8 fluid ounces
  • Eggs, 3 large (about 6 fluid ounces)
  • Coulis, strawberry (recipe here, but leave out the lemon juice and add a lot more icing sugar)
  • Sugar, granulated, 2 fluid ounces mixed with 1 tsp cinnamon
  • Icing sugar for dusting
  • Vegetable oil, fresh, for frying, but not olive oil (I used sunflower oil). Add a bit of re-used oil if you have some.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.  Prepare a piping bag, choosing a large star tip. If there no pastry bag available, then a gallon-sized, strong, plastic freezer bag with one of its corners snipped off can be substituted. If there are no piping tips, then the snipped-off corner itself will suffice but there will be no ridges. The dough will keep up to twenty hours in the fridge. I did some baked churros one day, and the next I fried up the remaining that was in the pastry bag.


Measure out the ingredients.


Put the butter, salt, sugar, coffee granules, and water into a medium-sized saucepan. Keep the flour and eggs near the cooker.


While stirring, simmer over medium heat until everything is dissolved and blended.


Add the flour all of a sudden. Vigourously mix with a large wooden spoon until a dough ball forms which pulls away from the sides of the pot. Gently cook for about a minute while continuing to stir so some moisture will evaporate. Remove from heat.


You can either wait a minute or run the lower sides of the pan under cold running water so the eggs can be safely added without being cooked. Beat in each egg by itself, using either a wooden spoon or a wire whisk. You can use a food processor if you choose the paddle attachment. After each addition, the dough will become slippery and separate into large pieces, unfortunately momentarily resembling raw liver lobes. Do not despair as it will wind up into a lovely, glossy, cohesive mass.


After beating in each egg, the mass will get more and more glossy but it will remain sticky.


After about ten minutes of beating, the mixture will be a lovely café au lait shade (funny that!), smooth, and shiny.


Using a wooden spoon, stuff the bag with the pâte à choux, squeezing the mixture towards the tip end after each spoonful.


Line some baking sheets with parchment paper. Though I have had my piping tips for decades, this is first time I have use them so I indulged in a little practice. The tip should be heard scratching along the surface, and the speed in which the dough is squeezed out should not be so fast that the strips are thin or so slow they are bunched up. If the plastic bag springs a leak, just slip another plastic bag over it (making sure you clip off a corner). When working the bag, twist the unfilled part.


Bake for about fifteen minutes and test by eating one (the best way I think!). The insides should be fluffy, a bit moist, and thoroughly cooked. Mine came out crisp enough considering they were baked, but you could run them under a broiler for a minute or so for extra crunch. Dust with icing sugar (granulated sugar does not adhere that well to baked churros) and serve hot.

I didn't remember to tamp down the spikey bits with a moistened fingertip to prevent them from getting burnt

If going the shallow fry route, mix sugar and cinnamon together and spread on a plate.


If you have a deep fryer, you are sitting pretty. If not, substitute a deep skillet like I did, adding about two inches of oil. To test without a thermometer, insert the handle end of a wooden spoon into the oil. When the temperature is in the range of 160 degrees F to 175 degrees F, there will be a steady though lively circular stream of tiny bubbles. If there is wild, tumultuous bubbling, then it is too hot and the heat needs to be lowered. After determining that it is hot enough, keep the flame low.


Layer a plate with paper towels and keep nearby. If you are new at piping, make sure you do a few practice runs first on a plate before doing them into the oil. You will get the hang of it fairly soon. I enjoyed playing around and squirted out some long ones which then gloriously curled up into curved shapes. Keep a sharp, non-serrated knife close so the dough can be scraped off the tip. Four-inch segments are more manageable though and should come out mostly straight. Fry about four minutes. Test by tapping them with the wooden spoon: they need to feel fairly hard when pressed down slightly. Remove with tongs.


Blot them on the paper towels and then coat with the sugar, making sure you sprinkle all parts, including any curved bits.


Pile them on a colourful plate or a plain one (your taste buds won't know the difference!) if that is all is available and serve them hot.


Biting into these churros is not only fun but also delightful.


À la prochaine!

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Wednesday, 29 January 2014

Apple Crisp/Crumble...and savoury fritters made from leftovers

Apple crisp served warm is a lovely and simple winter dessert. Crumble is how the British describe this comely duo of juicy apples and a candied, spiked-with-cinnamon, buttery topping while the Americans refer to it as crisp. Since no rolling out of pastry is required, this treat is really easy to do compared to tarts and pies.

Saucy crumble splashed with heavy cream

Ingredients
  • Apples, tart and firm, (I used Granny Smiths) 870 gms (about 5 medium apples)
  • Flour, plain 160 gms
  • Sugar, 300 gms
  • Butter, sweet, 170 gms
  • Cinnamon, 3/4 tsp
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp
  • Lemon juice, fresh, 1 T diluted with 1 T of water (total of 2 T liquid)
  • Cream or ice cream for topping
A square oven dish measuring about 20 cm by 20 cm by 5 cm will give a nice proportion of topping to filling. If it comes with a lid, all the better.  If not, then fit some foil over the top.


Wash the apples. Quarter them, core the quarters, peel, and then slice thinly, putting them into an oven-proof dish as you work. The thinner they are, the more like apple sauce they will become.


Toss the apple slices with the diluted lemon juice. Even out the slices as much as possible.


Preheat oven to 177 degrees C. Mix the the flour, salt, sugar, and cinnamon together.


Cut the cold butter into small chunks, about 2.5 cm square and put them in the mixing bowl.


Using with your finger tips (or ingredients can be put into a processor for a minute or so), work the butter and flour mixture until it is mostly coarse sand with a few pea-sized pieces here and there. It should take about five minutes.


Pile the contents of the mixing bowl on top of the sliced apples in the oven dish and spread it out to fill all four corners of the casserole. Place on the lid and put the crumble/crisp in the oven.

To guard against any messy spills, the dish is placed on a parchment-lined cookie sheet

After a half hour, remove the lid and let bake for another thirty minutes. It is essential to uncover the crumble at this time or else there will be no crisp topping as it will mostly dissolve into the juicy apples. When done, the topping will be nicely browned and crusty with apple-juice rivulets bubbling up through it. Test by inserting a knife in the centre which will slice right through if the apples are soft enough.


Wait about ten minutes before serving to give the juices time to congeal a bit.


The next day we served the crumble cold with a wedge of coffee ice cream, and our lunch guest said that the two accompanied each other superbly.  We eagerly agreed, especially The Calm One who came up with the pairing idea!


The marinated roast loin of pork I made a few weeks back yielded several meals, but there was still a couple of slices remaining. Leftover peas, mashed potatoes, and minced pork were combined to make an easy, delicious make-over with an Asian accent. I added an egg, about a half teaspoon of baking powder, a few tablespoons of flour, a minced flake or so of red pepper, a minced garlic glove, a bit of minced fresh ginger, and some salt. More thorough directions for making fritters can be found here. I doused the whole lot with soy sauce and really enjoyed them. Leftovers can be yummy!


One of the present garden tasks is to start pruning which means tools need to be clean and sharp. Last week the asparagus and raspberry beds got their trimming. The one-year old asparagus plants were cut down to the ground. In order to put all their energy into making roots strong enough to generate good cropping, we will wait another year before harvesting them. However, during this waiting period, it is important to keep the bed free from weeds as they will become entangled with the roots.


The raspberry canes got trimmed to about fifteen centimetres above the ground.


The warm, wet winter continues, slowing down the planting preparation for early potatoes, onions, peas, and spinach. But I am not too miffed because the weather can present some fantastic skies at dusk. One twilight, I walked out from the sous sol to see what I thought was a billowy, smokey blaze.

Mummified fruit was left on the fig tree for the birds.

It turned out to be a fantastic, back-lit rack of huge, fluffy clouds.


À la prochaine!

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Wednesday, 22 January 2014

Be my Valentine: Triple Coeur à la Crème & Strawberry Coulis!

It was decades ago when I first read about coeur à la crème in my culinary bible, that is, Fannie Farmer Cookbook. I then became determined to find porcelain heart-shaped molds used in this classic dessert. Wherever The Calm One and I would find our itinerant selves, I went hunting for them to no avail as they were patiently waiting for me in a tiny, crammed-with-goods, British china shop in Gloucester. The Calm One might have decided not to accept the job offer in that town, but I did not reject the pair of dusty molds which the proprietor happily scrambled to find.

The strawberry coulis was made with berries frozen from our potager's summer harvest

But then there were always reasons why I couldn't make it despite having the molds such as I couldn't find cheesecloth or cream cheese which used to be hard to find in France or safe eggs or red berries, at least not all at the same time. Slow-forward many a year and c'est parti/let's begin! Though some may say that this triple coeur à la crème is sufficient to trigger a triple-bypass heart surgery, I am not one of them.

Substitution City

  • Instead of the special molds, use a yogurt container reduced in height with holes punched in on the bottom. Just a double coeur would be possible, but it still will look and taste wonderful.
  • Instead of cheesecloth, use a square of a well worn, thin dish towel or thick paper towels
  • Instead of fresh berries, use frozen, after they are thawed of course
  • Instead of regular eggs, get organic ones

Voila! Most people should be able to try their hand at this luscious dessert.

Ingredients
(enough for 2 heart-shaped special molds and some extra for experimenting. Recipe can be doubled.)
  • Cream cheese, 118 ml/4 fluid ounces
  • Cream, heavy, 118 ml/4 fluid ounces
  • Sugar, 1 T
  • Egg white, free-range, 1
  • Strawberries, frozen or fresh, 473 ml/16 fluid ounces
  • Powdered sugar (icing, confectioner's), to taste
  • Lemon juice, fresh, to taste
The night before, prepare the molds. Gather the ingredients.


Stir the cream into the cream cheese with a fork.


Beat the mixture until it is smooth and thick which should take several minutes.


Using a balloon attachment on a processor or stick mixer, whip the egg white until stiff. (I separate the white from the yolk by cracking the egg into a clean hand and letting the white drip through my fingers into a bowl.) Fold in (placing a spoon under the mixture, bring it on itself, turn the bowl a quarter turn, and repeat) one half of the whites and the sugar until well blended.


Repeat with the remaining egg white and sugar. It will be an airy mass


Rinse out the molds, but do not dry them. Line with small pieces of paper towel and press down to moisten them. If needed, wet the towels with a moistened finger. The more neatly they fit inside the interior of the molds, the better will the finished coeur look.


Working in layers, smooth down the mixture with each addition with a small spoon to ensure solidity. Pack the filling flush with the top edge of the molds.


Put the molds in a covered dish and place in the fridge overnight. If using frozen berries, thaw in the fridge.

About a tablespoon of liquid oozed out from the molds, making the coeur's texture lighter though more compact

The next day, either in a blender/processor or via a stick mixer, puree the strawberries.


Work them in a sieve, with a bowl underneath to catch the juices.


Add lemon juice and powdered sugar to taste. Stir well. Let the coulis settle down for a few minutes so it will become a clear, brighter red.


Using a small brush poached from my water colour kit, I painted free hand the outline of a heart with the coulis. A cutout could be used instead:  fold a square of paper toweling in half, trace a semi-heart, cut out, and unfold. Place the template on the plate and paint around it.


Spooning a small amount of coulis onto the centre of a serving plate, I worked the sauce cleanly out to the template edges and repeated the process as needed to complete the outline. The coulis needs to be fairly thin so not only does it stay put but also not to cause displacement when the coeur is positioned. Extra sauce can be served on the side which I did in abundance!


The plate needs to have a flat diameter large enough for the coeur to be amply surrounded by the coulis. If the heart shape does not come out well, then a thicker circular pool of coulis can be done, perhaps on a smaller plate.


Tipping a mold onto my palm, the coeur neatly slipped out, and I carefully lifted off the wet paper towel.  Gingerly supporting the coeur with my fingers, it was placed off-centre with care onto the coulis. I first outlined an off-centre small heart with a tooth pick/skewer, and then carved it out with a teaspoon. The little heart was filled with coulis. I practiced all these steps with a test round.


The coeur à la crème turned out so stupendous that I decided nothing could be more wonderful than sitting on our sofa, spooning this buoyant cloud of creaminess dappled with tart/sweet coulis into my mouth all day long, day after day, for all eternity. Heavenly, my word!


À la prochaine!

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