Tuesday, 20 November 2012

The Frugality of Chicken: Two Soups and a Pot Pie...and the pleasure of friendship

Chicken soup really does help in healing from colds.  Among other properties, its abundance of the amino acid cysteine clears congestion.  When a kid, I would be given canned chicken soup consisting of soggy noodles, tiny pieces of rehydrated chicken, and a broth spiked with MSG.  I was fairly content with fare like this until my early twenties when a Jewish boyfriend taught me how to make his aunt's hallowed version.


This recipe which has evolved through time is a culinary workhorse as I am able to make several different meals from its broth, carrots, and meat--a hearty chicken soup, velouté de carottes, and chicken pot pie.  As both The Calm One and I had colds recently, it was a boon to have several quarts of the soup in our freezer.

First the stock is made by barely covering two medium-sized chickens with water--if you can find a capon then both the soup and chicken pot pie will be even better.  While the water is coming to the boil, add 4 large, peeled, whole carrots, 3-4 medium onions, a few stalks of celery or a smaller amount of lovage, a few sage leaves, a small handful of peppercorns, one or two bay leaves, a couple sprigs of thyme, and several sprigs of parsley.  Do not add salt now because it may be necessary to reduce the broth, and it would then become too salty.  It is easier to skim off the foam before adding the herbs.

I skim off most of the foam without becoming obsessive about it

After an hour, check to see if the drumsticks move easily, but not so freely that they fall off the joint.  The aim is not to overcook the breast meat as nothing is more disappointing than dry chicken.  Carefully remove each chicken onto a platter by inserting a large wooden spoon in its cavity while supporting its bottom with another wooden spoon.  Remove the carrots which will have soaked up the broth beautifully and will be soft and flavoursome.  Though crisp veggies are often regarded as desirable, sometimes savoury succulence wins as in this case.


Let the chickens cool enough for handling and bone them completely, putting everything, that is, the skin and bones, back into the stockpot while reserving the meat.  Simmer for another four hours to extract all the goodness.


Dayo stays in his box on his end of the long food-preparation table as I trained him as a kitten when cats are somewhat receptive to being told what to do.  He did make interesting faces though when I boned the chickens!


After removing as much of the bones and skin I can with a slotted spoon, the cooled stock is then strained through a mesh strainer.  I reserve about two quarts of stock and half the meat for the chicken soup.  Skim any fat off the surface of the broth.  Pour the broth into a suitable sized pot and add a cup of brown rice, simmering for about twenty minutes until the rice is very tender.  Meanwhile, chop the carrots and the chicken.


When the rice is soft, add the chopped carrots and chicken.  Voila:  delectable chicken soup with a rich broth, chicken and carrot chunks, and brown rice!


When I first served this to my mum-in-law, she said I put too many solid bits into her soup-plate as she is used to thin soups served as a first course.  When I told her that is all she is going to eat, she then guided the ladle of solid bits I was removing from her bowl back into it!  Everybody at the table had a good chuckle.

Another quart of the broth is reserved for velouté de carottes.


The remaining half quart and the rest of the chicken is reserved for a pot pie.

Look for the recipe soon!

Feisal Kamil is a Malaysian friend I had the good fortune to meet on G+.  He recently came across a book that reminded him of me without knowing that said book is a classic often gifted to gardeners:  The Country Diary of an Edwardian Lady.   Being the affectionate and generous person he is, he sent it off to me with a note apologising for it being second hand.  I countered his apology with my insisting its aged cream pages coupled with an enticing old-book smell only increased his gift's charm.


It is a book impossible to review in the ordinary manner as one only can experience it personally in all its enchanting uniqueness.  Edith Holden supplemented her neat, cautious calligraphy with her own watercolour illustrations of flowers, birds, and trees she saw on her country walks.


Her book, as far as I can see, only makes sense if it is read like a diary which means since it came into my life in November I started my reading at that point.   Her November entry has this poem by Burns:

Sing on sweet thrush, upon the leafless bough,
Sing on sweet bird, I listen to thy strain,
And aged Winter, mid his early reign,
At thy blythe carol, clears his furrowed brow.

Her own 1906 observations made in England during November overlap with those I am experiencing presently in France:  foraging for mushrooms, noting plants gone to seed--cow-parsnip and dock for her, fennel and broccoli for me--and her describing...the scanty foliage on the half bare Oak trees which brings to mind I soon will be going to the small Oak copse nearby to bag up all those precious leaves to make the superlative treat for any garden, leaf mould. 

There are still a few flowers brightening up our garden.

Japanese anemones

Sweet Alyssum

The lavender are still putting out a bud here and there

But mostly, there are fallen leaves.

Rose of Sharon beginning its dormancy

Soon there will be sedge after sedge of loudly honking cranes flying overhead with their necks gracefully outstretched as they wend their way to North Africa.  Their migration heralds the beginning of our cold but short winter and a chance for Dayo to transfix his gaze at the grey sky.

À la prochaine!

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Chicken Pot Pie

Tuesday, 13 November 2012

Pizza with Tomatoes, Parmesan, Mozzarella, Mushrooms, and Sausage

Pizza here in France can be good though being made and presented differently than to what I was accustomed in New York City, as in having crème fraîche sometimes substituting for tomatoes and of course containing various French cheeses like Gruyère.   Excellent pizza is usually sold from a specially dedicated truck or a kiosk often kept in permanent locations.  However, some restaurant chains, whose names I will not mention, should be ashamed of themselves, or at least the people who pay to eat the kept-hot-under-lamps sawdust crusts/canned fillings should be.


I miss seeing industrious NYC pizzaiolos adorned with their colourful neck bandanas as they energetically flip large circles of pliable dough while dewdrops of artisanale sweat moisten their earnest faces all the while smiling at their sidewalk admirers through the gleaming, plate-glass shop windows.  You just have to go in and get some of what they are making.

My pizza though inspired by the NYC style, that is, it boasts of a very thin and tasty crust and abundant cheese, is of course, not baked in a professional oven.  My home oven will only fit 8 inch pizzas, so the slices are not the typical over-sized triangles of NYC pizza.  Many people aspire to be NYC natives, but unless you can walk gracefully down a busy city while delicately folding a huge triangle in half and eating it without pausing in your stride or dribbling any of its molten ingredients down the front of you, then this jury of one will hold her verdict.

Ingredients
Makes two 20 cm pizzas plus extra dough to be frozen for two more 20 cm pizzas.

  • Flour, white, 425 grams
  • Olive oil, extra virgin, 1 T
  • Salt, preferably coarse, 1 tsp
  • Yeast, active dry, 2 tsp
  • sugar, 1.5 tsp 
  • Water, warm, about 250 ml
  • Tomatoes, plum, fresh or canned, about 6
  • Mozarella, sliced thinly, approx 300 grams, about 22 slices,
  • Parmesan, grated, 1/2 cup*
  • Sausages, sweet Italian or Toulouse, removed from casings, sauteed, two
  • Mushrooms, fresh or frozen, lightly sauteed in olive oil, 1 cup* (canned may be used, but they will taste less appetising;  frozen mushrooms can release a lot of liquid, so drain them and use their juices for broth)
* based on the American measure of 8 oz 

Equipment

  • Pastry board or glass chopping board which will also be used as a peel to place safely the pizzas into a hot oven
  • Silicon or very thick cloth oven mitts/potholder
  • Resistant-to-high-temperature shallow oven pans or a pizza stone
  • Oven-proof parchment paper
  • Mixer with dough hook, though dough can be kneaded by hand
Making dough

The night before make the dough which will be left overnight in the fridge for a slow, cold rise to develop irresistibly tasty, naturally forming chemical compounds.  Put flour in the bowl of a bread mixer and make two wells, one for the yeast, sugar, and warm water and the other for salt and olive oil.


Mix for about 12 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.  Remove from hook and place in a lightly oiled bowl.  Flip the dough ball over so the oiled surface is on top.  Cover and keep it overnight in the fridge twelve hours as a minimum and twenty-four hours as the maximum.


Assembly

The next day, preheat oven and pans to 475 to 500 (as hot as you can bear working with such heat) degrees F.  Remove dough from the fridge and let warm to room temperature.


Lay out all the toppings.  Break up the cooked and cooled sausage meat into tiny pieces, using your fingers and separating the amount into two equal portions.  Put the sauteed mushrooms on a plate and separate into two equal portions.  Keep the sliced mozzarella and grated Parmesan close by, dividing them into two equal portions.  If tomatoes are fresh, remove skins by dipping briefly in boiling water and chop coarsely.  If canned, just chop them.  Divide the tomatoes into two equal portions.

Preparation of crusts

Weigh out into two equal balls.  Wrap one for the freezer for future pizzas and halve the remaining one.


Place the two smaller balls on their floured oven paper and flatten with your hands a bit.  Then with a finger depress all around the perimeter an inch in from the edge to allow for the crust.


As dough warms to room temperature, it will be easier to pull and press the balls into two round circles.


Finish stretching and pressing the two crusts till their diameters are roughly 20 cm, and the circle is about 1/8 to 1/4 thick.  I love this part of the process.  Perhaps it was my years of working with pottery clay and throwing pots that enables me to enjoy working with dough--my fingers became very sensitive to the thickness of clay walls as I would raise rotating cylinders on the wheel.  Pizza dough's stretchiness is pretty accommodating.  Your finger tips have loads of nerve endings, so let them tell you if the crust has been evenly stretched; just work out the thicker parts and fatten up the thinner parts as the dough is very elastic.  You could just press the dough into a round pan, but making a pizza circle free form is a lovely skill to have.


All the toppings are set out

Spread the tomatoes on both circles.  Lay the sliced mozzarella and sprinkle with the Parmesan.

These Mozzarella slice are too thick, so try to keep them much thinner

Distribute the sausage pieces and end with a layer of mushrooms.  Using a glass/wooden pastry board as a peel, slide the pie with its paper into the HOT pan/on the stone in the HOT oven.  Take great care in doing so, using adequate protection for your hands.


Bake for 6-7 minutes and then rotate the pans and bake for a further 6-7.  Remove the pans, sliding the pie and its paper on a cutting surface.  Since home ovens are way less hot than professional ones, the bottom will not have the characteristic spots of charring, but it should be a nice golden brown.  Using a pizza cutter or a sharp knife, make four slices.  The too thickly sliced Mozarella caused a cheese-lava spill--certainly a delicious and appetizing one--but still, causing a diminishing of its finger-food status.  And yes, I still fold these smaller triangles in half as a nostalgic gesture.

Any uneaten pizza can be frozen and be reheated either in a covered casserole in a 350 degrees F oven for about 30 to 45 minutes or in the microwave.  If still frozen, the pizza will take longer to get fully hot. And please, if you are one of those oddballs who enjoy congealed, tepid pizzas, I don't want to know about it!


With plentiful rain, the grass has grown tall and is too much a treat to be passed up by Dayo.


Autumn is the best time to plant garlic, though an early spring planting would work also.  I grew enough this season to be able to use my own stock. I am using the largest bulbs from the late July harvest.

The biggest heads are on the left

Per Margaret Roach at A Way to Garden,  if only the biggest garlic cloves are selected, then eventually all that will be harvested are jumbo heads of large cloves--artificial selection at work.  The cloves are separated and only the larger outer ones are planted.  The rest of course are happily eaten.  If in a pinch, it is possible as long as the garlic has not been treated to suppress sprouting, to use supermarket/farmer's market garlic for your planting.  If you are interested in growing your own or improving what you are already growing, make sure to check out the various relevant posts written by Margaret--she knows her stuff!


Loosen soil with a spade or fork, remove weeds, add compost, and rake level.  With the rake's end make furrows about 2 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart in a block bed.  Put cloves about 4-6 inches apart in each short row.  Cover the furrow with earth and tamp down.  Normally, I would thoroughly moisten the bed with a light spray, but the soil is still quite soppy from almost constant rain.  The rain is doing a good job preparing the garden for the winter as it is terribly stressful for plants to endure winter if their roots are dry.

Note the the few back rows are already tamped down

As the temperatures continue to fall, I am on the guard to protect any vulnerable plants and have potted up the chives.  They will spend the short winter on a sunny sous sol window.


There are several young sweet bay leaf (Laurus nobilis) shrubs in my garden.  Bay leaves are one of the ingredients comprising bouquet garni, an indispensable feature in French cuisine. The leaves are harvested from all around the plant as to prevent bare spots and set out to dry for about two-three days.  They are then stored in recycled spice bottles.  As their invigorating fragrance is one of my favourites, I often toss a nice handful into my hot bath.


There usually is one head of broccoli that bolts into flowering because of a surprise bout of warm weather.  Their soft-yellow is a welcomed addition to the typically sombre autumnal palette.


This Abelia with its lovely arching branches is about thirteen years old and spent most of its life in a small pot on the balcony of our Grenoble apartment.  It is very happy to be in real soil and to be near bees that love its honey fragrance and nectar, hence its name. It is a wonderful, semi-evergreen bush for the garden as it holds visual interest all year round.  It sparkly white flowers are mostly gone and in their place are red sepals.


À la prochaine!

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Improvements on my basic pizza recipe

Tuesday, 6 November 2012

Potato/Onion Soup with Herbs, Crème Fraîche, & Saucisses de Strasbourg

This recipe is simple to follow, requires no special tools, and takes about an hour to make.  It's creamy, tangy peasant fare--an inexpensive meal in a bowl.  Saucisses de Strasbourg are lightly smoked pork links which are a bit richer and less salty than frankfurters.


Some people have a low opinion of frankfurters, calling them rubber sticks, and some brands I am afraid do fit that description.  Besides being a native New Yorker who as an university student happily subsisted on dirty-water dogs sold from colourful street carts, my paternal side of the family hails from Alsace, the land of choucroute garnie.  Therefore, if death-by-pork holds no fear for me, a few slices of wurst in my soup bowl won't either.  Portion control and a balanced diet allows eating some items that would be problematic if consumed excessively in a generally bad diet.  What works well in this soup is flavourful, lightly smoked, slightly spicy, cooked sausage, so choose any charcuterie that fits this description.  I suspect knackwurst and maybe even kielbasa would turn out equally well.

The potato harvest, especially the wonderful Desiree variety with its yellow flesh and red skin, was fantastic this season.  I started to use my garden's taters in August and foresee enough in the cellier to last for another three months which means at present I am growing fifty percent of our potatoes, and we do eat a lot of them.  Yay! When the haulmes have turned mostly yellowish brown and flop over, then it is time to dig up the succulent tubers.  Using a large garden fork, I carefully loosen the earth around each mound.  Some of the tubers get snagged on the fork's tines tearing their skin, and those get eaten relatively soon.

Late-season Desiree

Mid-season Mona Lisa

I let the potatoes dry outside for an hour or so, and then put them in our root cellar for storage.  They need to be stored in a dark, cool, and not too dry spot, away from any stored apples which release ethylene causing potatoes to sprout.

Potato/Onion Soup with Herbs,  Crème Fraîche, and Saucisses de Strasbourg 
10-12 servings

  • Potatoes, all-purpose, 8 large
  • Parsley, fresh, 2 Tbls or dried, 1 Tbl
  • Dill, fresh, 1 Tbl or dried, 1 tsp
  • Chives, fresh 2 Tbls or dried, 1 Tbl
  • Crème fraîche, 25 cl/8 fluid ounces
  • Onions, finely minced, 120 grams (1 medium onion)
  • Butter, 2 teaspoons
  • Saucisses de Strasbourg, or the best frankfurters or other lightly smoked pork sausage you can buy, 10
  • Milk, 500 ml/16 fluid ounces (approximate, add til desired consistency is reached)
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Mince the onions finely, and saute for about fifteen minutes over low heat until yellow, stirring occasionally to guard against any browning.  You want the onions to be softly mellowed not crisp or brown.


Scrub, peel, and cube potatoes.


Mince finely the herbs if fresh.  Kitchen shears are great for snipping chives.


Mix the herbs, cubed potatoes, and freshly ground black pepper with the sauteed onions.


Barely cover with water, and bring to a simmer for about twenty minutes or until the potatoes are tender.


While the soup is cooking, slice the saucisses and put them in a large bowl.  Of course, you can use less if desired.


When the potatoes are tender, remove half of them and add to the bowl with the saucisses.  Blend the remaining potatoes in the pot with a stick mixer or in a blender for about several minutes.  Use a light touch as potatoes get grey and gooey when worked too long. Using a potato masher would work also, though the soup will not be as smooth.  Add milk until the consistency is to your liking.


Then beat the crème fraîche with a wire whisk or a fork into the blended potato soup.  Yes, this could left out or the amount reduced.  I just eat smaller portions!


Put the reserved potatoes and the saucisses into the pot.  Heat for a few minutes for them to get warm, soft, and a bit puffy.  I wait until now to add salt, as the saucisses themselves salt the soup. Served piping hot, this savoury soup with a slight smoky overtone will warm you from the top of your head to the tips of your toes.  And I love that the onions, potatoes, and herbs are all from my garden.  However, this soup does not freeze all that well, so we tend to eat it several days in a row until it's all gone.



In the potager, both Dayo and I were glad to be out and about after five days of rain.  It is a delightful feeling when the sun comes out after a long spell of being hidden behind clouds.  The air is softly moist and everything smells fresh.




The Brussels sprouts are beginning to come in.  When the sprouts are about an inch in diameter, I snap them off starting at the bottom of the stalk and gradually work my way up as more come into maturity.  Sometimes it is easier to remove the leaf first, and then harvest the sprout.  They are quite resistant to frost which actually sweetens them, making them a wonderful winter veggie.

Brussels sprouts are in the front and broccoli in the background

As with broccoli and cauliflower, they taste fantastic when roasted.  Elise over at Simply Recipes has a nice approach roasting these baby cabbages.   Since Brussels sprouts are just one cultivar of Brassica oleracea which includes cabbages, they are really baby cabbages.  I remember well the puzzled, young man who queried what strange veggie I had in my grocery basket.  When I told him, he asked me in all seriousness,  Can a person eat more than one at a sitting? 


In order to freeze a surplus, whether from your garden or farmer's market, rinse them, remove any blemished leaves and trim their bottoms if tough.  Put them in a pot of boiling water for two minutes.  Remove with a slotted spoon.

Emerald beauties

Immediately place under cold, running water to stop the cooking.  Dry well with a tea towel.  Put in a freezer bag.  Zip almost closed, leaving a small opening to insert a straw.  Draw out as much air as is possible, closing up the last bit as you do, and label.

À la prochaine!


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