Showing posts with label Cepes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cepes. Show all posts

Tuesday, 22 January 2013

For a Snowy Day: Two Warming Recipes!

The short winters in southwest France may have freezing temperatures, but historically are not snowy.  However, for the last several years there has been consistent snowfall--sometimes just a light dusting, and at other times, up to a half a foot. I like the white, fluffy stuff, it's beautiful!  En plus, it hushes the normal noise of traffic lending a softer feel to the quartier.

Wintry mornings make me think Oatmeal!  I made enough not only to have some for a warming, nourishing breakfast, but also so I could pan fry what was left over for breakfast next morning.

Triangles of oatmeal pan-fried in butter and topped with warm strawberry jam and yogurt

After breakfast it was time to care for the starlings as on this cold, snowy day, they needed assistance.  The ice in their bath was duly smashed with a hammer so I could fill up the shallow container with fresh water.  Their feeding dish was stocked with oatmeal flakes, raisins, and moistened, dry cat food.  They pay me back by performing almost daily murmurations conducted in the late afternoon.


Cat food you say?  It is a food loved by insectivores like starlings as it is high in protein.  Happily, Dayo enjoyed himself by prancing about in the brisk, freshness of a cold, snowy day and did not notice the huge platter of cat food in the back of the garden!


The garlic planted this past fall doesn't seem to mind the snow that much.  Look at those brave, green blades!


Soon it was lunchtime, and what better dish for such a chilly day than mushroom soup à la forestière thickened with crème fraîche and exuberantly garnished?

Garnished with sliced, raw 'rooms, crispy bacon, fresh chives, and French bread chunks.

For the pan-fried oatmeal, you need of course to make some oatmeal.  There are two things to know about making oatmeal:  1) use a big enough pot to prevent boiling over, and 2) simmer on low heat without taking your eyes off it.  Off course, you could just put it overnight in a slow cooker or even just a thermos without such precautions.

I cover several large handfuls of flaked oatmeal with milk (imparts all essential creaminess), add cinnamon, lots of raisins, a bit of salt and sugar, and simmer until done, about five minutes, stirring all the while.  I scoop out a serving, and top it with a nice pat of butter.  The pot with the rest of the porridge goes in the fridge.  Or if there is a lot, you can pack the extra into a small loaf pan which lends itself to making easy, even slices.

If you like your porridge plain, then you could mix savoury ingredients like minced garlic/onion, spices, herbs, even grated cheese into the extra oatmeal while it is still warm.  Then follow the instructions below for pan frying the slices--olive oil could be used instead of butter.  The topping could be yogurt with a touch of tomato paste beaten into it.

When cold, ease the solidified cereal out of the pot--a flexible spatula comes in handy--and trim off any raggedly bits and cut into pleasing shapes.  The slices need to be about an 1/2 inch thick. Beat an egg in a shallow bowl and put some flour on a plate.  Dredge the oatmeal pieces all over with the flour, and dip in the beaten egg.  Then dredge in the flour once again on all sides.


Melt a tablespoon or so of butter in a skillet, and brown nicely on both sides over medium heat.


While the oatmeal slices are frying, heat gently over a low flame several tablespoons of jam--I used strawberry but any other berry flavour would work along with peach or apricot with their cheery golden colour--in a small pot, or for savoury slices, make up some yogurt flavoured with tomato paste.


Arrange the slices on a plate, spoon some plain yogurt over them, and top with the warm strawberry jam, or for the savoury slices, the tomato-yogurt.  The sweet version has a delectable crust enclosing creamy oatmeal studded with raisins and spiked with cinnamon with a brightening splash of melted jam and a cooling dollop of yogurt.  Pas trop mal!

Mushroom Soup à la Forestière
makes 6-8 servings, any excess can be frozen

  • Onion, yellow, 1 medium, minced finely
  • Mushrooms, fresh, 2.5 lbs/1 kg, minced finely
  • Mushrooms, several caps for garnishing
  • cèpes, dried, a small gowpen (double handful!)
  • Butter, sweet, 4 T
  • Salt
  • Flour, wheat, white, 5 T
  • Liquid, combined water and cepes' liquour, 1 3/4 quarts/1650ml
  • Bouquet garni, fresh or dried, either tied or not.  (If not tied, you will have to fish out the bits!)
  • Crème fraîche, 1 cup*/25 cl
  • Garnishes:  bacon, French bread chunks, fresh chives 
*American cup measure, that is, 8 oz

In French cuisine, the addition of mushrooms which are harvested in forests like cèpes is designated as being à la forestière.  This mushroom soup has a pleasing earthiness, that is, a woodsy taste which I adore.  Start preparing the cèpes.  Finely mince the onions and gather your fresh/dried herbs.  Keep in mind a bouquet garni of fresh herbs will be larger than a dried one.  I used one large bay leaf, a long sprig of fresh thyme, and several fresh parsley springs.


Gently saute them in two tablespoons of butter over the lowest flame possible for about ten minutes or till they are soft, transparent, and yellow.  Be careful not to brown them.


Carefully wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel so as not to waterlog them.  Cut them in half, reserving a few caps for garnishing.


Finely chop the mushrooms via a food processor or by hand.  The finer they are minced the more flavour the soup will have.


Toss the minced fresh mushrooms along with the minced cèpes into the pot with the sauteed onions.  Add two more tablespoons of butter along with a teaspoon or two of salt to encourage the 'rooms to release their liquor and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes.  There should be loads of brown liquid of which will be absorbed by the flour you will now add.  Incorporate the flour thoroughly and cook for a minute or too for the flour to lose its raw taste.


Slowly add the water and the strained cèpe liquor until the soup is smooth.  Add the herbs.  Simmer, covered, for another 25 minutes.


About fifteen minutes before the soup is ready,  prepare the garnish by frying up some bacon rashers, tear some chunks from a loaf of French bread, slice the reserved mushroom caps, and snip some chivesThough all is covered with snow in the potager at the moment, a large pot of verdant chives happily flourishes in a warm, sunny spot indoors.


I highly recommend herb scissors which makes the job of snipping herbs, especially chives, a cinch.  The scissors, however, are pretty heavy as they are five pairs in one!




Fish out the bouquet garni, and using a stick mixer, blend the soup right in the pot and beat in the crème fraîche.  Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.


Garnish heartily.  Voilà!


This mushroom soup is tangy, rich, and aromatic and is even better the next day as the robust flavour only deepens!

Bon appétit!

Tuesday, 30 October 2012

How to Make Borscht with Beef/Onion Dumplings

My mum-in-law gradually let out the specifics of this familial recipe through time--on one visit to her Yorkshire home, she admitted the lemon juice must be added shortly before serving, so as to prevent bitterness; in a car ride going through the snowy Alps, I was able to get her to confess she uses milk instead of water for making up the dumpling dough; on a visit to our Grenoble apartment, she divulged the addition of cèpes.   Her recipe is a Polish variant of the Ukrainian classic which means the borscht itself is a clear, ruby-coloured soup served over large beef/onion pierogis.
 

Though this recipe is labour intensive, it is truly worth it.  Traditionally served at dinner on Christmas Eve, it has now become such a favourite, we eat it throughout winter.  Garden-fresh beets impart a satisfying earthiness to this soup, so if you don't have your own, try to get some from a friend's garden or a farmer's market.


Scrub beets well with a veggie brush.  Trim tops from an inch or so above the root.  The tails can be left on or also trimmed an inch below the beet.  Such judicious trimming lessens bleedingBoil the beets till tender, around 30 minutes. Test if ready by inserting a small knife into the centre of a beet--does less damage than a fork--starting with the smaller ones.   Strain the water in which the beets were boiled and reserve.  Rub off skins under running water. Slice a bit off the frequently bitter top and bottom parts of the peeled beet. The beets can be used in recipes right away or frozen.  The vibrantly delicious greens themselves can be braised in a small amount of water and butter or olive oil along with some minced garlic and seasoned with a dash of vinegar and fleur de sel.


If you can only locate already cooked and shrink-wrapped beets, so be it.  However, I am ignorant regarding canned beets, but I suspect they would work also.

This recipe takes two days:  first day is devoted to simmering the broth and the simultaneous stewing of the beef, and the second is spent making the soup, dumpling dough, and dumpling filling.  I make the broth by covering about two kilograms of a bony, braising beef cut with cold water and slowly bringing to a boil.  Bay leaf, parsley, thyme, black peppercorns, several quartered onions, lovage or a few stalks of celery, several carrots, and a large pinch of powdered cloves are added to the pot. The meat usually becomes tender within three hours.  I remove it, separating the meat from the bones and return the bones to the soup pot for another hour.  The broth is then strained and any fat skimmed off, while the meat is trimmed of any undesirable bits and cut in chunks.  Keep both in the fridge until needed.

A caution I am afraid is necessary though I want everybody to try this recipe:  a food processor is rather important for kneading the dough, mincing the onions, and grinding the cooked beef. Of course the dough can be kneaded by hand, and the beef and onions minced via a knife.  But this recipe is lot of work even with a processor. 

Ingredients

  • Beets, about 4-5 medium, about 500 grams, cooked and diced small
  • Beef broth, 1.5 liters, preferably homemade, or the best quality you can buy
  • cèpes, dried, a small handful
  • Beet juices/cèpes liquid, about .5 liter
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • Lemon juice from a freshly squeezed lemon
  • Onions, finely minced, 250 grams
  • Butter, 60 grams
  • Beef, cooked and ground,  600 grams
  • Flour, 600 grams
  • Milk, 325 ml

Borscht 
twelve servings

Cover cèpes with boiling water and let soften for about fifteen minutes.  While waiting, start making the dough (See below).


Once cèpes are soft, rinse them at least twice, straining the liquid. 
Taste a bit to ensure you washed all the grit out.


Mince them and put into a large pot along with the measured, strained, soaking liquid, beef broth, and beet juices.   It will be the beet juices that will give the lovely colour to the borscht.  Bring just under the boil and simmer for about ten minutes until the cèpes are tender Cube the beets and add them.  Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Reserve off the heat.


When ready to serve, reheat and add the lemon juice.

Dumpling dough

Put flour in a standup mixer, add milk and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.  Process for about twelve minutes until smooth and elastic.  Add additional flour to get a non-sticky dough.  The dough however needs to be moist and pliable.


Weigh out into four equal balls and keep moist under a clean, well wrung-out tea towel.


Dumpling filling 

Mince finely the onions and saute slowly in the butter over low heat until onions are a mellow yellow and have hardly any raw taste.  Reserve.


While onions are being sauteed, grind the meat with two beaten eggs.


Add the sauteed onions into the large bowl with the minced beef.  Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Mix thoroughly.  The filling needs to be moist without being wet.


Assembling the dumplings
makes 30 large dumplings

Take one ball and flatten it.  Put a tea towel under a floured board to prevent it from moving.


Roll out to about 1/4 inch thick. Sprinkle flour to prevent the rolling pin from sticking if necessary.


Trim to make a neat rectangle--collect all the trimmings to make a fifth ball--and partition into 6 equal parts, each measuring about three square inches.


Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the centre of each of the squares, pulling up two diagonal corners and press them together.


Seal in such a way that there will be--you may need to make pleats--little triangles remaining on both endsThis ensures that the sealed dumpling will be a pleasing, triangular shape.

The seal needs to be placed evenly along the top edge

Finish the sealing.   Putting the dumpling on a side, starting from the edge and going in about not more an inch, squeeze the air out of the filling so as to have a nice, plump dumpling.  Then make a pleated edge:  starting from the left side of the dumpling, slip your left, middle finger under the dumpling's edge with the thumb on top of the edge, moving your index finger close to your thumb and as the pleat is formed, lift your thumb.  Do a series of pleats to the other end of the dumpling.  You can do a trial run first on some test dough edges.  This edge finishing is good for empanadas and calzones so it is a nice technique to know.  Any scraps of dough can be made into small balls to be boiled along with the dumplings.

Note the pleated dumpling in the background

Boil in batches of six for about six minutes, using a medium-sized pot.  Just after they are put into the boiling water, gently stir up from the bottom and along the sides to prevent the dumplings from sticking.  The dumplings will rise to the top and look shiny when done.  Remove gently with a slotted spoon and keep warm on a serving plate or shallow bowl.


Put two dumplings in a soup plate and cover with a few ladles of borscht.


Though it takes planning and time to make this low caloric, inexpensive, and nutritious soup, it is a superb meal.  Surplus, cool soup or dumplings can be easily frozen.  Also, boiling the dumplings makes the kitchen nice and steamy, a comforting effect on a nippy day--not to mention fun, because steamy windows invite your fingers to trace patterns on them.  I usually draw flowers...or houses with working chimneys...or geometric figures...

In the potager, the cold nights call for my covering certain crops with horticultural fleece and putting vulnerable pots inside on a sunny sous sol window sill or keeping them in the cold frame outside.  Dayo does his best to keep warm the potted-up strawberry runners in the cold frame.


À la prochaine!

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