How to Make French Onion Soup...and fresh green bean salad

With temperatures in the nineties, summer is reaching a climax.  This tall Queen Elizabeth rosebush is preparing for autumn with a last spurt of growth, reaching for the clear, blue sky before its petals drop and hips form.  Remember to refrain from fertilising bushes as new, tender growth will increase their vulnerability to frost.

I adore green beans and have planted four successions this season.  Succession planting, that is, sowing every ten to fourteen days ensures a steady supply of fresh produce.  Another advantage is protection against less than ideal conditions, for example, insect infestations happen just some of the time during the growing season so chances increase at least part of the crop will come in nicely.

An easy and delicious way to serve green beams is to make a salad.  Snap the ends off and break into small pieces.  Boil small potatoes for about five minutes, adding the beans for another five minutes or until the veggies are tender.  Slice the peeled potatoes and pat them and the beans dry.  Toss them into a bowl along with a crushed garlic clove, some apple cider vinegar and olive oil, Parmesan shavings, fleur de sel, and freshly ground black pepper.  This salad can be served tepid or chilled.  Use French bread to sop up the dressing--a simple, fast, and delicious supper.

After a month of dry curing onions and garlic under the pergola, I tidied them by shortening their tops and clipping their roots.  About a week later, I trimmed off the rest of the garlic tops, and they are now stored in a cool, dark spot in the sous sol. The onions need more curing before they can be stored.  Just as with garlic, when there is no smell when snipping them close to the bulb, I will know they are ready for storage.

The largest garlic bulbs will be planted this fall for next season's crop

Dayo likes to hang out under the pergola with me because it is much cooler there.  He also helps me as I discard the dry tops of onions and garlic, diligently swatting some as they fall from the table, guiding them into a compost crate. 

French Onion Soup or Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée is a staple in our household throughout the year.  Though proper carmelisation is important, using home-grown onions heightens the taste even further.

INGREDIENTS

(recipe make four servings)

• Onions, yellow, thinly sliced, 700 grams
• Garlic, 1 fat clove, crushed
• sugar, 1 tsp
• Olive oil, 2 Tbls
• Butter, 30 grams
• Beef broth, homemade or the best you can buy, 2 liters
• Bay leaf, crumbled, 1/8 tsp
• Thyme, 1/8 tsp
• French bread, slices, 8
• Gruyere cheese, grated, 200 grams
• Additional crushed garlic and olive oil

I find onion soup easier to eat if the onions are not sliced into rings, so I halve them first and then slice.

Bring the olive oil and butter to a bubbling boil in a heavy bottomed pot.  If the pot is broiler safe, then the same pot can be used to complete the dish.

Add onions, garlic, and sugar and over high heat, cook for about 6-10 minutes until most of the onions have browned edges.

Keep heat as low as possible and let carmelize about 30 to 40 minutes.  Fresher onions will take longer than older ones.  Sample them from time to time to get an idea what partially carmelized onions taste like.  When they are fully carmelized, the depth of soft, moist sweetness will knock you over.  It does for me, each and every time.

The onions will have the colour of caramel

Pour in the beef stock, stirring well with a wooden spoon to dissolve all the browned goodness at the bottom of the pot.  Add thyme, bay leaf, salt and freshly ground pepper and simmer, partially covered for an hour.

While the soup is simmering, preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  Cut two slices of French bread per serving.  Though this recipe can serve four, I freeze half of the soup for another meal as there are just two of us, making the rest of the croutons at that time. Slices should be not much more than 1/4 inch thick to prevent them from soaking up most of the soup.  On a shallow oven pan lined with oven-proof paper, mix a couple of crushed, large garlic cloves and several tablespoons of olive oil.  Rub both sides of the bread slices in this mix until well coated.

Put the tray in the oven for about 25 minutes, flipping over the slices after 12 minutes.  The slices should be fairly dry and golden brown.  Grate the cheese and divide into two equal piles for each serving.  Preheat broiler to the highest setting. 

Since I halve the recipe, I make about five large croutons to fit into my Corning casserole

Float the slices on the surface of the soup in a broiler-safe casserole and cover them with the cheese, each pile mostly going on top of a slice as some will land in the soup.  Place the casserole about four or five inches under the heating element and broil for about 3-5 minutes.  Carefully bring piping-hot casserole to table and serve in soup plates.

Bon appétit!

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Early Summer Harvesting: Onions and Garlic...and growing mushrooms

Daily summer abundance of healthy, fresh, delicious home-grown produce is now a reality.  A recent, late-morning harvest basket contained beets with their red-ribbed greens, carrots, onions, green beans, basil, strawberries, and raspberries.

If I want a salad to munch I just get what is available in the garden.  Onions rings, grated carrots, heat-resistant crisphead lettuce, baby beet slivers and their tops, Parmesan shavings, and yogurt/olive oil/chili dressing was one such impromptu salad.

Or if I want a hot veggie side dish, I braise some radishes in butter, sugar, garlic, and apple cider vinegar.  Radishes cooked in this manner have a milder taste, closer to that of turnips.

We are shameless lovers of mushrooms chez nous.  I always wanted to grow our own meadow mushrooms.  The Calm One bought a discount kit at Lidl for a few euros that was a complete bust--no mushrooms.  Undaunted, I bought another kit at my plant nursery and this time, oh, nice, nice, nice mushrooms!  It takes about a couple of weeks to start harvesting mushrooms which lasts over several weeks.

The mushrooms are just gorgeously fresh and when sliced, their gills are a lovely pinkish brown instead of the typical dark brown. It is just wonderful to be able to slice one or two mushrooms into a salad instead of having to deal with a whole punnet/pint or fishing out a few mushrooms out of the bulk bin and bunging them into a plastic bag and weighing them.  Ugh, I hate supermarket shopping.

Dayo is staying out long hours and apparently recharges his furry batteries by reclining on some young carrot seedlings.

The hard neck garlic did not put out scapes as it seems they don't provide those delectable flower stalks in hotter climates which is a little disappointing because I wanted so much to make scape pesto with them.  However, as there is a bumper basil crop, I can still make pesto.  I am very pleased with my harvest because they are huge bulbs.  I grew soft-neck garlic last season, and though they store longer, the cloves are so small and too pesky to handle.  I did an accidental experiment as I forgot to sidedress with fertiliser one half of the bed.  Well, not surprisingly, the fertilised half yielded much larger bulbs.  When there are two to three brownish lower leaves, then it is time to harvest garlic.

Garlic ready to harvest will have a few green top leaves

Garlic is quite fragile so no drying out in the sun.  As soon as possible after pulling them up out of the ground, shelter them in a shady place for curing. I will lightly peel off dirty outer wrappings if required.  There are enough bulbs for eating and some for planting this autumn for next season's crop.  I reserve the largest and best bulbs for sowing.

Garlic yet to be tidied up in the background

I did remember to side dress the onions and most of them are delightfully big.  There is a point just above the head, along the green stalk, that gets soft, causing the plant to keel over.  If about three quarters of the onions have keeled over, then that's a go ahead to harvest.  If the weather promises to be wet and therefore increasing the chance the onions may be susceptible to rotting, I will test to see if that spot is soft enough for it to fall over with a little help from myself.

Onions can be left right where they are harvested for a few hours to dry out and then they join the garlic in an airy spot, sheltered from sun and rain for several weeks of curing and eventual storage in a cool, dark place.

A small part of the onion harvest

Before curing the onions in a place sheltered from rain and sun, I clean them up a bit by peeling off any dirty, loose wrapping, being careful that I don't get carried away with the peeling.  With this moist season, some onions needed a bit more peeling than usual.  In the below photo, the onion on the left is untouched, the middle one is what most of the onions required, and for the one on the right, is what some particularly dirty onions went through--it will completely dry with a lovely golden brown skin eventually.

This season's garlic and onion harvest

The garlic and onions will stay under the pergola for several weeks before they will become fully dried and ready to have their roots and tops trimmed.  Onions store well for about six months in a root cellar.  After that, I will freeze the remaining.

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Some Like It Hot

Spring here in southwest France is continuing at a brisk pace.   The fresh green of young leaves along with the calming blues and mauves of lilacs, bluebells, irises, and sweet violets  contrast with the snappier yellows of pansies and the whites of tulips.

Lovely, oh so fragrant lilacs

White Tulipa Fosteriana, a species tulip, drenched in rain

However, I have to guard against any surprise, overnight cold snap.  For a few nights, the flowering strawberry beds needed a cosy fleece cover to guard against frost.

Dayo can't tell the difference between a strawberry bed and his bed

Though gardening can be very relaxing, it is also demanding, offering windows of opportunities that are often short.  The onions planted in mid February are now about five inches tall and need to be fertilised so a good harvest in July is ensured.  

Though onions are bulbs, rather than using a fertiliser high in phosphorus which promotes root development, it is thought better to use either a high nitrogen or a balanced one.  In order for each layer of an onion to be formed there needs to be a corresponding leaf--those tasty, blade-like things are leaves!  Nitrogen boosts green growth and therefore in this case green growth boosts bulb development.  Nice, fat onions please!  Yum.  I gently hold back the rather brittle leaves with the back of my hand as I go down rows, scratching the fertiliser into the soil with the side of the cultivator so as not to break off any of the leaves.

A side dressing of 10-10-10 fertiliser is gently worked into the soil

Meanwhile, heat-loving veggies/herbs like tomatoes, bell peppers, basil, melons, courgettes, and cucumbers need to be started indoors about six weeks before the last frost day which is about mid-May here.

A special soil-less mix for sowing is best.  As it is very fluffy, light, and airy which is perfect for delicate roots, it is necessary to add water and get it very moist before putting it into flats in order to fill the containers adequately.

Moistened commercial sowing mix, transplants, recycled food containers

Fill up clean flats almost to the top with the well moistened mix and press down lightly.  Seeds sparingly spaced will cut down on later thinning. Larger ones like melon/squash seeds can be individually spaced and smaller ones can be placed using a moistened toothpick.  Label rows of different varieties as you sow.  Cover lightly with a bit of dry mix and then press down again, this time more firmly, to let the moisture seep up into the dry mix.  This method prevents seeds from moving about which would disturb spacing and confuse identification. 

The flats now have to be kept warm.  I use an enclosed electric incubator but the flats can be kept on a heating pad also as long as a makeshift tent of plastic is kept over the containers and the flat is fitted with a drainage tray.  

Incubator has a vent as to prevent mould formation if it gets too moist inside

As soon as green growth is spotted, get them out of the incubator and onto a sunny windowsill or under artificial lights.  Days here are usually warm enough for me to take them outside as long as I remember to bring them back indoors in the evenings.  A gentle wind also strengthens their stems.  Some people blow on their tomato seedlings or use a fan indoors to toughen them up!  Any delay in getting light to them will stress them, and when stressed, plants tend to race forward in an desperate attempt to go to seed so as to pass the next generation on.  Instead of developing into sturdy, bushy plants, they will become leggy and fragile.

When you spot the first set of leaves, it is time to snip off some seedlings at the level of the mix with scissors to establish good spacing.  This way, none of the remaining seedlings' roots will be disturbed as they would be if you pulled out the rejects.  Choose the most vigorous ones.  A good spacing is when there is enough room between plants to be able to separate them when transplanting into separate little pots without injuring their roots.  Each seedling should  have a nicely defined though small root ball, a root ball of their own so to speak.

Four varieties of duly marked tomato seedlings in their recycled food tray.

Once the plants have a second pair of leaves, that is, true leaves--second pair of leaves resemble the leaves of the mature plant, unlike the first pair--and are about two to three inches tall, transplant them. A re-potting mix which has been lightly moistened will encourage good growth.  I use an old teaspoon as a mini-trowel and a small knife to get them out of the flats into separate small pots.

Rows of sturdy seedlings are cut like slices of brownies with a small knife

Make a small hole in prepared pot and place root ball into hole

 When handling delicate seedlings, pick them up via a leaf and not by their stems.  If the stem breaks, that's it, it dies.  If just one leaf comes off, you still have a living plant.  Put tomato seedlings deeper into the pot then they were in the flat. Tomato stems can sprout roots, hence your transplants will be supported by a robust root ball when setting out into the garden.  Carefully firm the mix around the plant.  Label and water them until the water runs out the bottom, and then re-water when the surface goes almost dry.  Keep them under good light, whether artificial or natural. 

Roma tomato seedling safely set in its new home

Think you are done?   I am afraid not!  Go ahead and get ready the outside area for your seedlings as it is best to let prepared soil to settle for a few weeks before the actual transplanting is done.  If you find your motivation flagging a bit, think of all those red, ripe, juicy tomatoes you will eventually gobble up. 

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Ready, Set, Onion!

Dayo has the greatest knack of settling down into places providing both security and good views.

He is checking out if I will harvest something interesting, like pork, fish, or milk.

The garden guides my activity.  It says it's time to harvest the last of the winter crops to make room for warm-weather varieties.

Garden-fresh Brussels sprouts have a delectable nutty, slightly sweet taste

Solid honey or carrots? 

Leeks ready to be thoroughly washed

The last of the mâche (superb fresh greens all through winter)

Home-grown onions are wonderful.  Though proper carmelizing of onions is essential for a really good French Onion soup, home-grown onions take it to another level.  The main types are regular (Allium Cepa) and potato/multiplier onions (Allium Cepa var. aggregatum, that is, perennial onions once used in home gardens and fast becoming popular again).  Onions can be grown via seeds, transplants, and sets.  Seeds need more time from sowing to harvest, while transplants and sets take less time. However, there are usually many more intriguing varieties available as seeds. 

For regular onions, I prefer to use sets which are just tiny immature onions.  If planted thickly, some can be harvested as scallions/green onions before reaching maturity, allowing more space for the rest to mature fully.  Onions planted in early spring will be ready for harvest by July.

Block bed containing around 250 Stuttgart onion sets

With my trusty rake, I make short furrows down the whole bed, placing the sets around four inches apart (for harvesting some immature onions as scallions, place closer together) and about one inch deep.  If a bit more depth is required for some of the huskier ones, deepen the furrow with a finger tip and gently place the set, taking care not to press down, as the basal plate can get damaged.  I discard any soft, damaged, rotten sets.  

With the back of the rake I first cover the rows with soil, then tamp down the bed, and finally water well.   If the birds consistently pull out the baby onions by their tops, I cover the bed with horticultural fleece.  So far,  just one set was yanked out (and dutifully replanted). There is no need for labelling as the entire bed is filled with onions.

Onions putting out green growth about a week later

The rather bossy lettuce seedlings are telling me to transplant them now.  Off I go! 

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