Showing posts with label Garlic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Garlic. Show all posts

Tuesday, 19 March 2013

The Goodness of Garlic: Linguine with Roasted Garlic, Parlsey, Capers & Parmesan

As I always wanted to roast heads of garlic in their skins to make a spread for bread and to use in other dishes, the surplus of last year's garlic crop is finally allowing me to fulfil my desire.  A favourite quick and easy dish of mine is linguine tossed in a buttery, garlic/caper/parsley sauce topped with freshly grated Parmesan.  This time I substituted mashed, roasted garlic for sauteed, chopped garlic.


Garlic is the only produce I presently grow enough for not only a year's supply for two but also for sowing next season's crop.  I love adding it along with chopped, fresh ginger and red pepper flakes to shrimp fried rice (watch out for the recipe!);  I adore throwing in several fat, smashed, unpeeled cloves in braised dishes like Pot-Roast of Leg of Lamb;  I delight in sprinkling chopped, fresh garlic over salads like Raw Tomatoes stuffed with Tuna.

Reserve the number of garlic heads you want to roast.  With the rest, separate into individual cloves.


Preheat oven to 400 degrees F/205 degrees C.  Peel the outer skins off the heads, leaving the individual cloves' skins on.  Slice about an 1/2 inch off the tops and dribble some drops of olive over each head, rubbing the oil with your finger to make sure the exposed surfaces are fully coated.


Either wrap each head in foil and place in an individual well of a muffin tin or my preference, tightly packed in a covered casserole dish. 

Non-sprouted garlic, that is, garlic without any green bits, is the best for achieving roasted succulence

Bake about 40 to 60 minutes depending on size of the heads until browned and the cloves can be easily pierced with a fork.  Be careful not to overdo it or the garlic will dry out and harden.


My elation began as the kitchen was filled with the alluring earthiness of roasting garlic.  It continued when taking out the garlic, I could see topaz-coloured drops oozing from the cloves.  It only increased when I popped out the warm--let them cool a bit, no singed fingers please--semi-liquid innards which I then spread eagerly on a slice of home-made French bread.


There was then an interruption in my elated state as I was disappointed with my first taste.  Perhaps my expectations were just too high for something I have been waiting so long to experience.  And then, wow, the elation returned with a vengeance, the deliciousness hitting me with a wallop!  All I could think was, squeeze out some more, spread some more, put in mouth.  Repeat. 


After a few slices, I got a glow as if I was exercising, and I then realised I was indeed doing aerobics--it was a demanding schedule to keep!  Warm, mashed, roasted garlic spread on French bread is out-of-this-world good! Most likely it will keep in the fridge for several days and can be frozen.  I say most likely because there was none left to test that possibility!

The lusty cloud of garlic fragrance permeating the kitchen got to Dayo also.  Before I started roasting the garlic he looked like this: calmly observing his realm.


Once the odoriferous brume reached his end of the food-preparation table, this is what Dayo looked like: enthusiastically playing with a paper towel.


The surplus garlic cloves can be frozen easily by peeling and then chopping finely or coarsely per preference.  A food processor comes in handy here, but a good knife and some patience does the job also.  Remember to freeze the garlic as soon as possible after chopping as the high sulphur content makes it susceptible to stinking to high heavens besides encouraging spoiling.  Per Margaret Roach's clever approach to making frozen logs of herbs, put the chopped garlic into the bottom of a freezer bag.


Squeeze the air out of the bag, making a log of chopped garlic at the bottom Then roll up, secure with string or small clips, and put in the freezer.  When needed, remove log and slice off what you need.



Onto the linguine!  Put a good sized pot on the boil.  Meanwhile, for an ample, one-sized serving gather one and a half-inch diameter of linguine, 1 or 2 teaspoon(s) of mashed, roasted garlic with extra for garnishing, one tablespoon of capers, one tablespoon of fresh, finely minced flat-leaf parsley with extra for garnishing, four tablespoons of Parmesan, one teaspoon of sweet butter, and one teaspoon of extra-virgin olive oil, a pepper mill, and some salt.


Toss the linguine into the boiling water, stirring carefully--some swear by salting the water, but I refrain since I focus on coating pasta with well seasoned sauces.  Boil till slightly undercooked, that is, about a minute less than the recommended time.


Pour the pasta and most of the water into a strainer over the sink, reserving around 1/4 cup of the pasta water.  I fit the strainer over a bowl to catch the remaining water.  Reserve only briefly because the pasta will stick together if left for more a few minutes.  In that case, you could add a little olive oil to keep the strands separate from each other.


Put the butter, olive oil, and the pasta water into the now empty pot and turn the heat on medium low, making sure the mixture is hotThen add chopped parsley, mashed, roasted garlic, capers, and the pasta.  Stir gently until the water is mostly evaporated and the mashed garlic is 'dissolved', not more than a minute as not to overcook the pasta.  If necessary the heat can be raised a bit to ease along the thickening of the sauce.  Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.


Unceremoniously dump the pasta on a plate and sprinkle with Parmesan.  Put some more Parmesan in the centre, cradle some mashed, roasted garlic on it, and place a few parsley sprigs on top.  How did I handle that creamy dollop of mashed, roasted garlic nested in cheese?  As an appetiser!


What's for dessert you may ask?  More French bread spread with mashed, roasted garlic of course!  Have I mentioned that mashed, roasted garlic is, well, quite delicious?


In the garden, sowing continues as the rain permits.  The peas are now in and safely covered with horticultural fleece to keep them snug and protect them from hungry birds.  With our short springs and long summers, mid-march is the time cut-off for sowing a cool-weather crop like peas.  Thankfully the rain let up a bit as to allow my honouring this deadline.


The garlic planted last autumn is doing very well and will be eventually harvested late June when the recently frozen supply should be gone.

Young garlic plants in the background, nursery bed of 2-year-old laurels in the foreground

The blue of bearded irises is beginning to join the already established blue of sweet violets and periwinkle, awaiting for even more blue from lilacs, bluebells, and blue flowering herbs like rosemary and thyme.  For many, spring is a time for cheer, but in my garden it is the time for the lovely Blues.


À la prochaine!


RELATED LINKS

Planting garlic cloves
Harvesting and dry storage of garlic
Sowing peas

Tuesday, 13 November 2012

Pizza with Tomatoes, Parmesan, Mozzarella, Mushrooms, and Sausage

Pizza here in France can be good though being made and presented differently than to what I was accustomed in New York City, as in having crème fraîche sometimes substituting for tomatoes and of course containing various French cheeses like Gruyère.   Excellent pizza is usually sold from a specially dedicated truck or a kiosk often kept in permanent locations.  However, some restaurant chains, whose names I will not mention, should be ashamed of themselves, or at least the people who pay to eat the kept-hot-under-lamps sawdust crusts/canned fillings should be.


I miss seeing industrious NYC pizzaiolos adorned with their colourful neck bandanas as they energetically flip large circles of pliable dough while dewdrops of artisanale sweat moisten their earnest faces all the while smiling at their sidewalk admirers through the gleaming, plate-glass shop windows.  You just have to go in and get some of what they are making.

My pizza though inspired by the NYC style, that is, it boasts of a very thin and tasty crust and abundant cheese, is of course, not baked in a professional oven.  My home oven will only fit 8 inch pizzas, so the slices are not the typical over-sized triangles of NYC pizza.  Many people aspire to be NYC natives, but unless you can walk gracefully down a busy city while delicately folding a huge triangle in half and eating it without pausing in your stride or dribbling any of its molten ingredients down the front of you, then this jury of one will hold her verdict.

Ingredients
Makes two 20 cm pizzas plus extra dough to be frozen for two more 20 cm pizzas.

  • Flour, white, 425 grams
  • Olive oil, extra virgin, 1 T
  • Salt, preferably coarse, 1 tsp
  • Yeast, active dry, 2 tsp
  • sugar, 1.5 tsp 
  • Water, warm, about 250 ml
  • Tomatoes, plum, fresh or canned, about 6
  • Mozarella, sliced thinly, approx 300 grams, about 22 slices,
  • Parmesan, grated, 1/2 cup*
  • Sausages, sweet Italian or Toulouse, removed from casings, sauteed, two
  • Mushrooms, fresh or frozen, lightly sauteed in olive oil, 1 cup* (canned may be used, but they will taste less appetising;  frozen mushrooms can release a lot of liquid, so drain them and use their juices for broth)
* based on the American measure of 8 oz 

Equipment

  • Pastry board or glass chopping board which will also be used as a peel to place safely the pizzas into a hot oven
  • Silicon or very thick cloth oven mitts/potholder
  • Resistant-to-high-temperature shallow oven pans or a pizza stone
  • Oven-proof parchment paper
  • Mixer with dough hook, though dough can be kneaded by hand
Making dough

The night before make the dough which will be left overnight in the fridge for a slow, cold rise to develop irresistibly tasty, naturally forming chemical compounds.  Put flour in the bowl of a bread mixer and make two wells, one for the yeast, sugar, and warm water and the other for salt and olive oil.


Mix for about 12 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.  Remove from hook and place in a lightly oiled bowl.  Flip the dough ball over so the oiled surface is on top.  Cover and keep it overnight in the fridge twelve hours as a minimum and twenty-four hours as the maximum.


Assembly

The next day, preheat oven and pans to 475 to 500 (as hot as you can bear working with such heat) degrees F.  Remove dough from the fridge and let warm to room temperature.


Lay out all the toppings.  Break up the cooked and cooled sausage meat into tiny pieces, using your fingers and separating the amount into two equal portions.  Put the sauteed mushrooms on a plate and separate into two equal portions.  Keep the sliced mozzarella and grated Parmesan close by, dividing them into two equal portions.  If tomatoes are fresh, remove skins by dipping briefly in boiling water and chop coarsely.  If canned, just chop them.  Divide the tomatoes into two equal portions.

Preparation of crusts

Weigh out into two equal balls.  Wrap one for the freezer for future pizzas and halve the remaining one.


Place the two smaller balls on their floured oven paper and flatten with your hands a bit.  Then with a finger depress all around the perimeter an inch in from the edge to allow for the crust.


As dough warms to room temperature, it will be easier to pull and press the balls into two round circles.


Finish stretching and pressing the two crusts till their diameters are roughly 20 cm, and the circle is about 1/8 to 1/4 thick.  I love this part of the process.  Perhaps it was my years of working with pottery clay and throwing pots that enables me to enjoy working with dough--my fingers became very sensitive to the thickness of clay walls as I would raise rotating cylinders on the wheel.  Pizza dough's stretchiness is pretty accommodating.  Your finger tips have loads of nerve endings, so let them tell you if the crust has been evenly stretched; just work out the thicker parts and fatten up the thinner parts as the dough is very elastic.  You could just press the dough into a round pan, but making a pizza circle free form is a lovely skill to have.


All the toppings are set out

Spread the tomatoes on both circles.  Lay the sliced mozzarella and sprinkle with the Parmesan.

These Mozzarella slice are too thick, so try to keep them much thinner

Distribute the sausage pieces and end with a layer of mushrooms.  Using a glass/wooden pastry board as a peel, slide the pie with its paper into the HOT pan/on the stone in the HOT oven.  Take great care in doing so, using adequate protection for your hands.


Bake for 6-7 minutes and then rotate the pans and bake for a further 6-7.  Remove the pans, sliding the pie and its paper on a cutting surface.  Since home ovens are way less hot than professional ones, the bottom will not have the characteristic spots of charring, but it should be a nice golden brown.  Using a pizza cutter or a sharp knife, make four slices The too thickly sliced Mozarella caused a cheese-lava spill--certainly a delicious and appetizing one--but still, causing a diminishing of its finger-food status.  And yes, I still fold these smaller triangles in half as a nostalgic gesture.

Any uneaten pizza can be frozen and be reheated either in a covered casserole in a 350 degrees F oven for about 30 to 45 minutes or in the microwave.  If still frozen, the pizza will take longer to get fully hot. And please, if you are one of those oddballs who enjoy congealed, tepid pizzas, I don't want to know about it!


With plentiful rain, the grass has grown tall and is too much a treat to be passed up by Dayo.


Autumn is the best time to plant garlic, though an early spring planting would work also.  I grew enough this season to be able to use my own stock. I am using the largest bulbs from the late July harvest.

The biggest heads are on the left

Per Margaret Roach at A Way to Garden if only the biggest garlic cloves are selected, then eventually all that will be harvested are jumbo heads of large cloves--artificial selection at work.  The cloves are separated and only the larger outer ones are planted.  The rest of course are happily eaten.  If in a pinch, it is possible as long as the garlic has not been treated to suppress sprouting, to use supermarket/farmer's market garlic for your planting.  If you are interested in growing your own or improving what you are already growing, make sure to check out the various relevant posts written by Margaret--she knows her stuff!


Loosen soil with a spade or fork, remove weeds, add compost, and rake level.  With the rake's end make furrows about 2 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart in a block bed.  Put cloves about 4-6 inches apart in each short row.  Cover the furrow with earth and tamp down.  Normally, I would thoroughly moisten the bed with a light spray, but the soil is still quite soppy from almost constant rain.  The rain is doing a good job preparing the garden for the winter as it is terribly stressful for plants to endure winter if their roots are dry.

Note the the few back rows are already tamped down

As the temperatures continue to fall, I am on the guard to protect any vulnerable plants and have potted up the chives.  They will spend the short winter on a sunny sous sol window.


There are several young sweet bay leaf (Laurus nobilis) shrubs in my gardenBay leaves are one of the ingredients comprising bouquet garni, an indispensable feature in French cuisine. The leaves are harvested from all around the plant as to prevent bare spots and set out to dry for about two-three days.  They are then stored in recycled spice bottles.  As their invigorating fragrance is one of my favourites, I often toss a nice handful into my hot bath.


There usually is one head of broccoli that bolts into flowering because of a surprise bout of warm weather.  Their soft-yellow is a welcomed addition to the typically sombre autumnal palette.


This Abelia with its lovely arching branches is about thirteen years old and spent most of its life in a small pot on the balcony of our Grenoble apartment.  It is very happy to be in real soil and to be near bees that love its honey fragrance and nectar, hence its name. It is a wonderful, semi-evergreen bush for the garden as it holds visual interest all year round.  It sparkly white flowers are mostly gone and in their place are red sepals.


À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS

Improvements on my basic pizza recipe

Tuesday, 10 July 2012

Early Summer Harvesting: Onions and Garlic...and growing mushrooms

Daily summer abundance of healthy, fresh, delicious home-grown produce is now a reality.  A recent, late-morning harvest basket contained beets with their red-ribbed greens, carrots, onions, green beans, basil, strawberries, and raspberries.


If I want a salad to munch I just get what is available in the garden.  Onions rings, grated carrots, heat-resistant crisphead lettuce, baby beet slivers and their tops, Parmesan shavings, and yogurt/olive oil/chili dressing was one such impromptu salad.


Or if I want a hot veggie side dish, I braise some radishes in butter, sugar, garlic, and apple cider vinegar.  Radishes cooked in this manner have a milder taste, closer to that of turnips.


We are shameless lovers of mushrooms chez nous.  I always wanted to grow our own meadow mushrooms.  The Calm One bought a discount kit at Lidl for a few euros that was a complete bust--no mushrooms.  Undaunted, I bought another kit at my plant nursery and this time, oh, nice, nice, nice mushrooms!  It takes about a couple of weeks to start harvesting mushrooms which lasts over several weeks.


The mushrooms are just gorgeously fresh and when sliced, their gills are a lovely pinkish brown instead of the typical dark brown. It is just wonderful to be able to slice one or two mushrooms into a salad instead of having to deal with a whole punnet/pint or fishing out a few mushrooms out of the bulk bin and bunging them into a plastic bag and weighing them.  Ugh, I hate supermarket shopping.

Dayo is staying out long hours and apparently recharges his furry batteries by reclining on some young carrot seedlings.


The hard neck garlic did not put out scapes as it seems they don't provide those delectable flower stalks in hotter climates which is a little disappointing because I wanted so much to make scape pesto with them.  However, as there is a bumper basil crop, I can still make pesto.  I am very pleased with my harvest because they are huge bulbs.  I grew soft-neck garlic last season, and though they store longer, the cloves are so small and too pesky to handle.  I did an accidental experiment as I forgot to sidedress with fertiliser one half of the bed.  Well, not surprisingly, the fertilised half yielded much larger bulbs.  When there are two to three brownish lower leaves, then it is time to harvest garlic.

Garlic ready to harvest will have a few green top leaves



Garlic is quite fragile so no drying out in the sun.  As soon as possible after pulling them up out of the ground, shelter them in a shady place for curing. I will lightly peel off dirty outer wrappings if requiredThere are enough bulbs for eating and some for planting this autumn for next season's crop.  I reserve the largest and best bulbs for sowing.

Garlic yet to be tidied up in the background

I did remember to side dress the onions and most of them are delightfully big.  There is a point just above the head, along the green stalk, that gets soft, causing the plant to keel over.  If about three quarters of the onions have keeled over, then that's a go ahead to harvest.  If the weather promises to be wet and therefore increasing the chance the onions may be susceptible to rotting, I will test to see if that spot is soft enough for it to fall over with a little help from myself.


Onions can be left right where they are harvested for a few hours to dry out and then they join the garlic in an airy spot, sheltered from sun and rain for several weeks of curing and eventual storage in a cool, dark place.

A small part of the onion harvest

Before curing the onions in a place sheltered from rain and sun, I clean them up a bit by peeling off any dirty, loose wrapping, being careful that I don't get carried away with the peeling.  With this moist season, some onions needed a bit more peeling than usual.  In the below photo, the onion on the left is untouched, the middle one is what most of the onions required, and for the one on the right, is what some particularly dirty onions went through--it will completely dry with a lovely golden brown skin eventually.



This season's garlic and onion harvest

The garlic and onions will stay under the pergola for several weeks before they will become fully dried and ready to have their roots and tops trimmed.  Onions store well for about six months in a root cellar.  After that, I will freeze the remaining.

RELATED POSTS

Planting onion sets
Fertilising onions