Showing posts with label Iron Cookware Series. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Iron Cookware Series. Show all posts

Thursday, 31 October 2019

Iron Cookware Series: Tortillas De Tiesto

This fluffy, grilled, yeasted, lightly sweetened, Ecuadoran flatbread boasts of a buttery, milky, egg-rich gorgeousness replete with a good amount of whole wheat flour AND as if that was not already more than enough, it is stuffed with salty fresh cheese. Not that I would turn down milk and cookies on their own for a late afternoon snack, but if I had to choose between that old standby and these tortillas, warm off the griddle, paired with a cup of spiced tea, I would just have to reject les petites gateaux. Tiesto refers to the large, shallow clay pan that is traditionally used. A thoroughly seasoned cast-iron skillet is a worthy substitute, resulting in well-toasted tortillas. Depending on where in Ecuador, these can be made entirely with corn, or a mix of corn and wheat, or just wheat as in this recipe from Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook by contributor Fanny Perez.


Ingredients
makes twelve approximately 10 cm (4 inch) diameter flatbreads

  • Whole wheat flour, 455 g (3.5 American 8 fluid oz cups)
  • All-purpose flour, 225 g (1.75 American 8 fluid oz cups)
  • Sugar, white, 5 T
  • Active dry yeast, 1 tsp
  • Kosher salt, 1 tsp
  • Whole milk, 340 g (scant 1.5 American 8 fluid oz cups)
  • Large egg, beaten
  • Unsalted butter, 225 g (16 T)
  • Quesco fresco or Feta cheese (which I used)

If using a stand mixer, just put everything except the cheese in its bowl. Toss the butter in the flour and cut into small cubes. This way the floured butter doesn't stick to the knife. Start with low speed for about two minutes or until all of the ingredients have come together and then increase the speed to medium for about five minutes or until the dough is smooth and doesn't stick to your hands. If mixing by hand, measure out the first five ingredients and put in a large bowl. Measure out milk and crack the egg into a mixing jug and whisk until blended. Put the butter into the bowl and toss with flour, then cut in small cubes. Work the butter using your fingertips until the texture is like coarse sand which takes about five minutes.


Add the milk mixture, incorporating it with a large wooden spoon until it comes together into a shaggy dough


Knead until smooth which should take about five to ten minutes depending on your method. I use the spiral method which is how I learned how to knead large amounts of clay in my potter days decades ago. It's the quickest way to knead because your hands never leave the dough in order to turn it, instead it's rocked continuously on a pivot; unfortunately I have been unable to locate a vid showing how to do this. Here's a vid on the regular method. Cover with a damp tea cloth/dish towel (or plastic wrap/bag) and let rise around a hour. 


Divide roughly into twelve parts. Form into balls. Flatten them out into disks of about 10 cm (4 inches). Place them as they are done onto two parchment lined sheet pans. Keep them covered with a damp tea cloth (or plastic wrap/bag) as you work.


At first I thought that cutting the block of feta into squares would be neater and quicker than crumbling it and spooning out tablespoons. Unfortunately not only did I mistakenly cut more than the twelve needed, but the sharper edges and contained nature of a square meant the dough got torn a bit when pulling it over the cheese and the grilled tortilla did not have bits of cheese distributed throughout.


I switched to the cookbook's recommended method of crumbling and measuring out two tablespoons for each tortilla. Sprinkle the dough circles with cheese and pull up the sides to make a closed dumpling form. Form a ball and roll out a bit wider than before. Don't fret if you see some cheese poking through as feta does not melt much. You might hear a tiny bit of sizzling from time to time, but not much. Keep the filled tortillas covered with a damp tea towel/plastic wrap or bag as you work.


Grilling pancakes or flatbreads usually means the first one will be more miss than hit. After a few misses, the approach resulting in golden brown and fluffy tortillas instead of blackened and having the consistency of cooked cereal was heating the pan over a large-in-diameter, medium high burner until a few drops of water tossed into the skillet evaporated almost immediately, then placing the pan over a small-in-diameter, low flame. Once that is done, cook each tortilla for about fifteen minutes, flipping a few times. To test the degree of fluff, shielding your fingertips with paper towelling, squeeze the tortilla's top and bottom simultaneously to test for spongy springinessno indentation should remain for long


My skillet only accommodated one at a time so when I reached the half-way mark, the dough balls waiting to be toasted were way more risen which I say were the best of the lot. Look at that fluff!


I love the pocked-with-white-cheese surface which I thought this silky, white ribbon showed to advantage.


They are truly magnificent, nourishing but still a bit indulgent. Coffee and hot chocolate also go well with them. Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook recommends serving them with Ecuadoran spiced morochoa sweet, warm, milky drink thickened with cracked white corn. There's a whole bunch in the standalone freezer waiting for me when the desire hits to pamper myself by defrosting a couple by popping them in a warm oven. YES to batch baking!


À la prochaine!

OTHER IRON COOKWARE SERIES POSTS


Lemon Basil Garlic Smashed Potatoes

Roasted Salmon & Spiced Rhubarb With Fresh Pea shoots

Mashed Potato Cantal Onion Pancakes


RELATED POSTS

Raisin Challah a la Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook


Bialys a la Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook


Book Review / Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook: Artisanal Baking From Around The World by Jessamyn Waldman Rodriguez with Julia Turshen


RELATED LINKS

Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook at Amazon

Hot Bread Kitchen Website: Handmade Authentic Multi-Ethnic Breads, Preserving Tradition, Rising Expectations


Thursday, 15 August 2019

Iron Cookware Series: Lemon Basil Garlic Smashed Potatoes

Boiling small, unpeeled potatoes followed by gently squashing with a fork and then stove-top roasting in an iron skillet not only doesn't involve turning on the oven in summer, but also results in a superbly roasted tater taking less time than a baked one.


Last week I dug up two beds of all-purpose potatoes, to be specific, Rosabelle variety which has pink skin and yellow flesh; they will find their way into stews, soups, the skillet, and as mashed/scalloped for the next three months. Though it is best to unearth potatoes when the soil is dry, sometimes it's not possible to do so when there's been abundant rain. In that case, clumps of earth adhering to the potatoes can be rinsed off using the garden hose. The ones in the below photo comprise about one-fifth of our haul.


When Rosabelle is harvested early in June, it is suitable for salads, but when mature in August, it becomes multipurpose because it loses some moisture. To summarise the different types, salad potatoes have the most moisture, baking potatoes have the least, and all-purpose are in between. A higher amount of moisture translates texturally into increased firmness and less moisture into more fluffy and floury. However personal preference does dictate as in my own where I shun firm, waxy potatoes even for salads. I am an all-purpose lass! Though I have been known to sneak a few potatoes just for baking into our grocery cart.

Using a spade or fork to dig them up usually results in some getting damaged. When just an end has been cut off, I still store them in the dark, cool cellier. However, when they are slashed lengthwise or on the diagonal, I usually discard them as they are a bother to clean and unsuitable for storage as they can introduce decay into the whole lot. That's why I am as careful as I can be when working around them. There's a specialised potato fork with blunt tips that someday I might get!


After they are clean and dried by the sun, I separate the smallest ones with which I will make mostly smashed potatoes. I love smashed potatoes because they are an easy and yummy way of eating potassium-rich skins which contain as much potassium as the flesh. Since the recommended adult intake is about 5,000 mg, most of us don't get what we need, hence we feel lethargic and experience muscle cramps at times. If made in a pan other than cast-iron, they will be better than OK, but they won't develop the same depth of flavour and crackly skin.


Ingredients for Lemon Basil Garlic Smashed Potatoes are in bold. For two side servings or one meal-sized, boil till tender ten small potatoes in their skins. Let cool. Put a thin layer of oil (I used safflower) in the skillet and turn the heat on to medium. While the pan gets nice and hot, flatten out each potato on a solid surface by cradling one by one with your thumb and index finger while pressing down with a fork. The motion needs to be steady and gentle as to keep the potato flesh intact and not broken into pieces. If that happens, the finished dish will be fine, just a bit messy looking and more challenging to flip over. Mince a garlic clove and along with a teaspoon of dried basil and a halved lemon put close to the skillet. Carefully position each potato with the side of the most intact skin face down in the skillet using a spatula. Keep some distance between each one. Let be for around five minutes or until the skin has developed a deep-golden crust. Sprinkle with salt, minced garlic (using a small spoon, place some on each one, then smoosh down with the spoon's back), and basil. Lower heat a bit and flip over and let be for another five minutes.  Additional oil may be needed. Turn off the heat. Flip again (to the side where skin is most cracked) and carefully (don't splatter hot oil on you!) squeeze lemon juice over all. By the time the skillet is brought to table, the piping hot potatoes will have soaked up the lemon juice. A sprinkling of fleur de sel is the final touch.


The skin was crunchy, the insides soft and cushiony, and everything was gorgeously seasoned as if the lemon, garlic, and basil were a natural part of the potato flesh and not upstart additions. Also a serving offers around 1000 mg of potassiumprobably more because there is increased skin surface with several small potatoes than for an equivalent large potato⁠—for the summer road when our requirement goes up even further because of perspiration and increased activity.


À la prochaine!

OTHER IRON COOKWARE SERIES POSTS

Roasted Salmon & Spiced Rhubarb With Fresh Pea shoots

Mashed Potato Cantal Onion Pancakes

RELATED LINK

Everything you need to know about potassium


Thursday, 16 May 2019

Iron Cookware Series: Roasted Salmon & Spiced Rhubarb With Fresh Pea shoots

Rhubarb is more than just pie or preserves or crumble. It pairs wonderfully with salmon.  Yes, it must be sweetened in this savoury instance, but not as much as in a dessert. The saltiness and sweetness makes a perfect match.


Harvested fresh from our potager, rhubarb and pea shoots are a delight. The rhubarb will be sweetened with maple syrup and flavoured with allspice (a mix of ground cinnamon, cloves & nutmeg can be substituted), ginger, and vanilla.


For each serving, you will need a portion of salmon, a large rhubarb stalk sans leaves, a small bunch of pea shoots or other greens like arugula, vanilla extract, ground ginger, and allspice (or a mix of cinnamon, nutmeg & cloves, all ground).

Preheat oven to 23o degrees C (450 degrees F). Slice the rhubarb into small pieces. Put a tablespoon or two of maple syrup (depending on the amount of rhubarb, such as with exceptionally large stalks its better to err on the sweet side as rhubarb can be extremely sour on its own), tiny dash of vanilla, pinch of ginger and allspice (or a mix of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg) in a small bowl. Toss well. Pat the salmon dry with a paper towel. Preheat a slightly oiled iron skillet for about five minutes. Get it good and hot. Meanwhile season the salmon on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sear it on both sides. Let a nugget of butter melt and add the rhubarb. Coat the rhubarb with butter and put in the oven. Depending on size and thickness of the salmon, cook from 6 to 10 minutes (mine took six). Longer cooking times will either require bigger rhubarb pieces or for smaller pieces to be removed while the salmon finishes roasting. When the centre can be flaked with a fork, it's ready. While it's cooking, thinly slice the pea shoots.


Spread the rhubarb on a plate. Place the salmon and top with pea shoots.


If desired, some fleur de sel can be sprinkled partout (everywhere).


Refreshing salmon with its subtle flavour, pea shoots with their grassy scent and natural sugars, and a-little-bit-gooey, pleasingly tart rhubarb made a very attractive trio indeed.


RELATED POSTS

Iron Cookware Series: Mashed Potato Cantal Onion Pancakes
Tuna Cakes with Gooseberry Sage Sauce
Rhubarb Crumble

À la prochaine!

Tuesday, 8 January 2019

Iron Cookware Series: Mashed Potato Cantal Onion Pancakes

Grating raw potatoes for pancakes can be a bother, so how to get that same delectable earthy flavour complete with creamy insides and outside crunch without shredding your fingers in the process? Just ensure that you always make more mashed potatoes than needed. Consider leftover mashed potatoes as having a seat at your table. You are cooking for four? Make believe it is five or six.

Yogurt makes a good accompaniment, both taste and nutrient-wise

When I lived and worked in New York City all those decades ago, a trusty cast-iron skillet had a place of honour on my stove. I loved it so much I use to sneak it into our backpack when we went camping. After yet another move, it got left behind. I have made do with stainless steel frypans with heavy aluminium bottoms. Recently The Calm One ambled into the kitchen with not only a replacement for the cast-iron Dutch Oven which had finally given up the ghost after twenty years of use, but also with a lovely iron skillet with two pouring spouts. The former is a fetching enamelled cherry-red with ivory insides, the latter, equally enamelled, is tomato-red. On to the pancakes! Ingredients (which are in bold) amount just to minced onion, egg, flour, salt, and cheese. I chose Cantal, not my usual entre-deux whose taste is similar to mild cheddar, but Cantal jeune whose flavour is closer to Muenster.


Did I forget an ingredient? Oh, yes, leftover mashed potatoes, of course! The better the mash, the better the pancake. This is how I made mine (choose a variety good for mashing, so no salad potatoes please!): boil peeled potato chunks till tender, strain them, add back to the pot, and dry them out a bit by shaking the pan over a low flame. Put them back in the strainer. While they are being riced, warm milk and butter (about a tablespoon of milk and a teaspoon of butter for each medium potato) in the same pot in which the potatoes were boiled. Add the riced potatoes, beat well with a wooden spoon. Salt to taste. Add more milk and butter if required. Wire-whisk till fluffy. When taking the leftover mashed potatoes out of the fridge, break them up with a wooden spoon to soften them.


For each cup of mash (American cup, 8 fluid oz= 16 tablespoons), make a well, and crack an egg into it.


Beat egg with a fork.


Stir in a tablespoon of minced onion and four heaping tablespoons of grated cheese. Parmesan, gruyere, cheddar, and comte would be nice choices. Add enough flour (I used around four heaping tablespoons) to get the consistency close to the original mashed potatoes, but it will be more moist. Add salt, around one half teaspoon. Cover the bottom of the skillet with oil and heat over medium high for around five minutes. Put heaping tablespoons of the mixture, leaving room between them so they can be smoothed out with the back of a metal spoon dipped in cold water (make sure not to get any water into the hot oil). Lower the flame a bit because iron retains heat well. Brown on one side, around three minutes, flip over, and brown for another three minutes. All the mixture needs to be used because it does not stand well. Drain on paper towels and serve with yogurt. Satisfying and warming on a cold night, they are a treat.


À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS

Cantal Apple Clafoutis (different cantal affinages are explained)
Cantal Asparagus Tart
Fig Apple Walnut Cantal Dark Rye Hot Open-Faced Sandwich (recipe can be found halfway down the post)