Tuesday, 6 November 2012

Potato/Onion Soup with Herbs, Crème Fraîche, & Saucisses de Strasbourg

This recipe is simple to follow, requires no special tools, and takes about an hour to make.  It's creamy, tangy peasant fare--an inexpensive meal in a bowl.  Saucisses de Strasbourg are lightly smoked pork links which are a bit richer and less salty than frankfurters.


Some people have a low opinion of frankfurters, calling them rubber sticks, and some brands I am afraid do fit that description.  Besides being a native New Yorker who as an university student happily subsisted on dirty-water dogs sold from colourful street carts, my paternal side of the family hails from Alsace, the land of choucroute garnie.  Therefore, if death-by-pork holds no fear for me, a few slices of wurst in my soup bowl won't either.  Portion control and a balanced diet allows eating some items that would be problematic if consumed excessively in a generally bad diet.  What works well in this soup is flavourful, lightly smoked, slightly spicy, cooked sausage, so choose any charcuterie that fits this description.  I suspect knackwurst and maybe even kielbasa would turn out equally well.

The potato harvest, especially the wonderful Desiree variety with its yellow flesh and red skin, was fantastic this season.  I started to use my garden's taters in August and foresee enough in the cellier to last for another three months which means at present I am growing fifty percent of our potatoes, and we do eat a lot of them.  Yay! When the haulmes have turned mostly yellowish brown and flop over, then it is time to dig up the succulent tubers.  Using a large garden fork, I carefully loosen the earth around each mound.  Some of the tubers get snagged on the fork's tines tearing their skin, and those get eaten relatively soon.

Late-season Desiree

Mid-season Mona Lisa

I let the potatoes dry outside for an hour or so, and then put them in our root cellar for storage.  They need to be stored in a dark, cool, and not too dry spot, away from any stored apples which release ethylene causing potatoes to sprout.

Potato/Onion Soup with Herbs,  Crème Fraîche, and Saucisses de Strasbourg 
10-12 servings

  • Potatoes, all-purpose, 8 large
  • Parsley, fresh, 2 Tbls or dried, 1 Tbl
  • Dill, fresh, 1 Tbl or dried, 1 tsp
  • Chives, fresh 2 Tbls or dried, 1 Tbl
  • Crème fraîche, 25 cl/8 fluid ounces
  • Onions, finely minced, 120 grams (1 medium onion)
  • Butter, 2 teaspoons
  • Saucisses de Strasbourg, or the best frankfurters or other lightly smoked pork sausage you can buy, 10
  • Milk, 500 ml/16 fluid ounces (approximate, add til desired consistency is reached)
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Mince the onions finely, and saute for about fifteen minutes over low heat until yellow, stirring occasionally to guard against any browning.  You want the onions to be softly mellowed not crisp or brown.


Scrub, peel, and cube potatoes.


Mince finely the herbs if fresh.  Kitchen shears are great for snipping chives.


Mix the herbs, cubed potatoes, and freshly ground black pepper with the sauteed onions.


Barely cover with water, and bring to a simmer for about twenty minutes or until the potatoes are tender.


While the soup is cooking, slice the saucisses and put them in a large bowl.  Of course, you can use less if desired.


When the potatoes are tender, remove half of them and add to the bowl with the saucisses.  Blend the remaining potatoes in the pot with a stick mixer or in a blender for about several minutes.  Use a light touch as potatoes get grey and gooey when worked too long. Using a potato masher would work also, though the soup will not be as smooth.  Add milk until the consistency is to your liking.


Then beat the crème fraîche with a wire whisk or a fork into the blended potato soup.  Yes, this could left out or the amount reduced.  I just eat smaller portions!


Put the reserved potatoes and the saucisses into the pot.  Heat for a few minutes for them to get warm, soft, and a bit puffy.  I wait until now to add salt, as the saucisses themselves salt the soup. Served piping hot, this savoury soup with a slight smoky overtone will warm you from the top of your head to the tips of your toes.  And I love that the onions, potatoes, and herbs are all from my garden.  However, this soup does not freeze all that well, so we tend to eat it several days in a row until it's all gone.



In the potager, both Dayo and I were glad to be out and about after five days of rain.  It is a delightful feeling when the sun comes out after a long spell of being hidden behind clouds.  The air is softly moist and everything smells fresh.




The Brussels sprouts are beginning to come in.  When the sprouts are about an inch in diameter, I snap them off starting at the bottom of the stalk and gradually work my way up as more come into maturitySometimes it is easier to remove the leaf first, and then harvest the sprout.  They are quite resistant to frost which actually sweetens them, making them a wonderful winter veggie.

Brussels sprouts are in the front and broccoli in the background

As with broccoli and cauliflower, they taste fantastic when roasted.  Elise over at Simply Recipes has a nice approach roasting these baby cabbages.   Since Brussels sprouts are just one cultivar of Brassica oleracea which includes cabbages, they are really baby cabbages.  I remember well the puzzled, young man who queried what strange veggie I had in my grocery basket.  When I told him, he asked me in all seriousness,  Can a person eat more than one at a sitting


In order to freeze a surplus, whether from your garden or farmer's market, rinse them, remove any blemished leaves and trim their bottoms if tough.  Put them in a pot of boiling water for two minutes.  Remove with a slotted spoon.

Emerald beauties

Immediately place under cold, running water to stop the cooking.  Dry well with a tea towel.  Put in a freezer bag.  Zip almost closed, leaving a small opening to insert a straw.  Draw out as much air as is possible, closing up the last bit as you do, and label.

À la prochaine!


RELATED POSTS

Shoestring French fries garnish for potato soup
Sowing potatoes
Hilling & fertilising potatoes
Transplanting Brussels sprouts & broccoli
Roasting broccoli

Tuesday, 30 October 2012

How to Make Borscht with Beef/Onion Dumplings

My mum-in-law gradually let out the specifics of this familial recipe through time--on one visit to her Yorkshire home, she admitted the lemon juice must be added shortly before serving, so as to prevent bitterness; in a car ride going through the snowy Alps, I was able to get her to confess she uses milk instead of water for making up the dumpling dough; on a visit to our Grenoble apartment, she divulged the addition of cèpes.   Her recipe is a Polish variant of the Ukrainian classic which means the borscht itself is a clear, ruby-coloured soup served over large beef/onion pierogis.
 

Though this recipe is labour intensive, it is truly worth it.  Traditionally served at dinner on Christmas Eve, it has now become such a favourite, we eat it throughout winter.  Garden-fresh beets impart a satisfying earthiness to this soup, so if you don't have your own, try to get some from a friend's garden or a farmer's market.


Scrub beets well with a veggie brush.  Trim tops from an inch or so above the root.  The tails can be left on or also trimmed an inch below the beet.  Such judicious trimming lessens bleedingBoil the beets till tender, around 30 minutes. Test if ready by inserting a small knife into the centre of a beet--does less damage than a fork--starting with the smaller ones.   Strain the water in which the beets were boiled and reserve.  Rub off skins under running water. Slice a bit off the frequently bitter top and bottom parts of the peeled beet. The beets can be used in recipes right away or frozen.  The vibrantly delicious greens themselves can be braised in a small amount of water and butter or olive oil along with some minced garlic and seasoned with a dash of vinegar and fleur de sel.


If you can only locate already cooked and shrink-wrapped beets, so be it.  However, I am ignorant regarding canned beets, but I suspect they would work also.

This recipe takes two days:  first day is devoted to simmering the broth and the simultaneous stewing of the beef, and the second is spent making the soup, dumpling dough, and dumpling filling.  I make the broth by covering about two kilograms of a bony, braising beef cut with cold water and slowly bringing to a boil.  Bay leaf, parsley, thyme, black peppercorns, several quartered onions, lovage or a few stalks of celery, several carrots, and a large pinch of powdered cloves are added to the pot. The meat usually becomes tender within three hours.  I remove it, separating the meat from the bones and return the bones to the soup pot for another hour.  The broth is then strained and any fat skimmed off, while the meat is trimmed of any undesirable bits and cut in chunks.  Keep both in the fridge until needed.

A caution I am afraid is necessary though I want everybody to try this recipe:  a food processor is rather important for kneading the dough, mincing the onions, and grinding the cooked beef. Of course the dough can be kneaded by hand, and the beef and onions minced via a knife.  But this recipe is lot of work even with a processor. 

Ingredients

  • Beets, about 4-5 medium, about 500 grams, cooked and diced small
  • Beef broth, 1.5 liters, preferably homemade, or the best quality you can buy
  • cèpes, dried, a small handful
  • Beet juices/cèpes liquid, about .5 liter
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • Lemon juice from a freshly squeezed lemon
  • Onions, finely minced, 250 grams
  • Butter, 60 grams
  • Beef, cooked and ground,  600 grams
  • Flour, 600 grams
  • Milk, 325 ml

Borscht 
twelve servings

Cover cèpes with boiling water and let soften for about fifteen minutes.  While waiting, start making the dough (See below).


Once cèpes are soft, rinse them at least twice, straining the liquid. 
Taste a bit to ensure you washed all the grit out.


Mince them and put into a large pot along with the measured, strained, soaking liquid, beef broth, and beet juices.   It will be the beet juices that will give the lovely colour to the borscht.  Bring just under the boil and simmer for about ten minutes until the cèpes are tender Cube the beets and add them.  Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Reserve off the heat.


When ready to serve, reheat and add the lemon juice.

Dumpling dough

Put flour in a standup mixer, add milk and 1/2 teaspoon of salt.  Process for about twelve minutes until smooth and elastic.  Add additional flour to get a non-sticky dough.  The dough however needs to be moist and pliable.


Weigh out into four equal balls and keep moist under a clean, well wrung-out tea towel.


Dumpling filling 

Mince finely the onions and saute slowly in the butter over low heat until onions are a mellow yellow and have hardly any raw taste.  Reserve.


While onions are being sauteed, grind the meat with two beaten eggs.


Add the sauteed onions into the large bowl with the minced beef.  Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Mix thoroughly.  The filling needs to be moist without being wet.


Assembling the dumplings
makes 30 large dumplings

Take one ball and flatten it.  Put a tea towel under a floured board to prevent it from moving.


Roll out to about 1/4 inch thick. Sprinkle flour to prevent the rolling pin from sticking if necessary.


Trim to make a neat rectangle--collect all the trimmings to make a fifth ball--and partition into 6 equal parts, each measuring about three square inches.


Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the centre of each of the squares, pulling up two diagonal corners and press them together.


Seal in such a way that there will be--you may need to make pleats--little triangles remaining on both endsThis ensures that the sealed dumpling will be a pleasing, triangular shape.

The seal needs to be placed evenly along the top edge

Finish the sealing.   Putting the dumpling on a side, starting from the edge and going in about not more an inch, squeeze the air out of the filling so as to have a nice, plump dumpling.  Then make a pleated edge:  starting from the left side of the dumpling, slip your left, middle finger under the dumpling's edge with the thumb on top of the edge, moving your index finger close to your thumb and as the pleat is formed, lift your thumb.  Do a series of pleats to the other end of the dumpling.  You can do a trial run first on some test dough edges.  This edge finishing is good for empanadas and calzones so it is a nice technique to know.  Any scraps of dough can be made into small balls to be boiled along with the dumplings.

Note the pleated dumpling in the background

Boil in batches of six for about six minutes, using a medium-sized pot.  Just after they are put into the boiling water, gently stir up from the bottom and along the sides to prevent the dumplings from sticking.  The dumplings will rise to the top and look shiny when done.  Remove gently with a slotted spoon and keep warm on a serving plate or shallow bowl.


Put two dumplings in a soup plate and cover with a few ladles of borscht.


Though it takes planning and time to make this low caloric, inexpensive, and nutritious soup, it is a superb meal.  Surplus, cool soup or dumplings can be easily frozen.  Also, boiling the dumplings makes the kitchen nice and steamy, a comforting effect on a nippy day--not to mention fun, because steamy windows invite your fingers to trace patterns on them.  I usually draw flowers...or houses with working chimneys...or geometric figures...

In the potager, the cold nights call for my covering certain crops with horticultural fleece and putting vulnerable pots inside on a sunny sous sol window sill or keeping them in the cold frame outside.  Dayo does his best to keep warm the potted-up strawberry runners in the cold frame.


À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS:

Foraging for cepes
Propagating strawberries

Tuesday, 23 October 2012

Foraging for Cèpes

Three years ago when I first met our neighbours, Monsieur and Madame M, I had found out that each autumn they head down to some woods south of us to search for cèpes.   The first autumn, I felt it would be too forward to ask if I could tag along, the second was too dry, and the third saw such fierce competition among the foragers that some cars shoved others off the country road.

Since being a mycophagist from an early age, finding cèpes places high on my bucket listSo when I recently got a phone call from an excited Madame M that her godson has spotted the first cèpes fruiting near his farm, I was very happy.  I was instructed to bring a cap to protect my hair from the spider webs strung along the trees, a walking stick, and galoshes.  They warned me we may not find any.  I now know they didn't have the heart to tell me I would be the one not to find any.

A recipe of Madame Ms:  sauteed cèpes 

The next afternoon saw us packing their car with our stuff and persons, and off we drove to the Dordogne border.  We went to the godson's farm to let him know we would be going through their woods.  Though the French highly regard politeness and being bien élevé, I suspect the real reason of notifying Phillippe is that the time for cèpes foraging overlaps with the hunting season. It's being responsible to know who is wandering about your property.

Monsieur M and Phillippe roam the farm each morning looking for game

We stood talking all together in the farm's courtyard listening to Phillippe, a beau gosse if I have ever saw one--tall with a ready, infectious smile and thick black hair.  He was clad in knee-high boots the colour of which matched his wavy locks.  Caspar, a young Golden Retriever, pranced about.

Some of the farm buildings, the courtyard is off to the left.

Though quite physically imposing, Phillippe kept his gaze down while softly telling us that spotting cèpes is in the eyes.  With a quick, upward glance, he said, and I have the eyesWe then bundled back into the car and went to the wooded area.


I love forests with their dappled shade, sheltering canopy, and sweetish smell of damp decay.  This one contained many chestnut trees, and their hairy, broken capsules were strewn all over the forest floor like bizarre, little wigs.  Monsieur M said that there is always food to be had here: mushrooms, game, and nuts.  We started out all together, but gradually we lost track of each other for long periods of time. 


Every once in a while, one of my companions would surface and show me their finds.

After harvesting by twisting and pulling, the bottoms can be shaved clean with a knife

They would always yell across the forest, Rien?  And I would always have to reply, Rien.   You see, apparently I don't have the eyes. Then they would wander off again, leaving me alone.  I didn't mind being alone, but I craved to be told a specific technique how to spot brown-capped mushrooms which are mostly buried under brown leaves.  So I would ask each time one of my group popped into sight, so how are you finding all of these cèpesThe reply was always it is in the eyes.


I asked if mice were taking bites out of the mushrooms, but the answer was slugs.  Then off they would go again, leaving me to ruffle the leaves with my walking stick, looking for cèpes in vain.


A bit discouraged, I went back to the car and found no one there so I returned to the forest.  This time I found boletes, but not cèpes; these had yellow tubes/pores instead of white.  I also found extremely hard and woody shelf mushrooms.



A colander for mice?

More time passed than I must have realised.  I heard someone shouting my name and one of my companions appeared.  They thought I had gotten lost.  A shouting volley then began, alerting the rest of them that I was found and the search was off.  We returned to Phillippe's farm, and I got to see the rabbits, goats, and ducks.




Caspar really warmed to me.  He followed me around as I took photos and sporadically would stand up, facing me with his paws resting on my shoulders.  He was such a darling and tried to enter the back seat of the car with me just before we left.  I wondered what Dayo would think of his smell on me.


Monsieur and Madame M let me off in front of my home, and as we unpacked the trunk, I was given a generous amount of mushrooms from their large basket. Still miffed that I was unable to find any cèpes, I suggested perhaps one needs to spot a gently rounded mound of leaves, shaped so because a big mushroom is in the process of raising them.  No, said Monsieur M, it could just as well be a log.  There it is then, I am none the wiser.

Madame M put up some conserves the next day.


She gave me a simple recipe for my fresh cèpes and instructed me to wipe them clean with a moist cloth which is the preferred way to wash mushrooms in general or else they get waterlogged.

Dirty cèpes

Clean cèpes

Gather together butter or olive oil, fleur de sel, black pepper grinder, and minced, flat-leaf parsley/garlic. Slice the mushrooms.


Saute them in the butter or olive oil for about ten minutes.  A few minutes before finishing cooking, toss in the garlic, and just before taking them off the heat, add the parsley and freshly ground pepper,  giving it all a stir. Sprinkle on the fleur de sel.  Their meaty taste with a nutty undertone and silky texture was certainly pleasing, but it's their freshness that bowled me over.  Dried cèpes, however, have their uses with their intense flavour,  and they feature often in many of my recipes. 


Back at the potager, Dayo was doing his own foraging in the wild area of our garden--a mountain of brambles covering a big cherry tree stump--which I keep for small wildlife.


He was so intent on exploring, he paid me no mind.  Perhaps he caught a whiff of Caspar?  He then disappeared out of sight.


À la prochaine!