Wednesday, 28 November 2012

Chicken Pot Pie...and the goodness of a basic pastry crust

Though a chicken pot pie is some serious comfort food, it also has culinary flair by dint of a tender, flaky crust and a Suprême Sauce binding the filling.  Regard making it as a delicious means of learning some basic culinary techniques!


Ingredients
Makes one 9 inch pie and one 4 inch ramekin

See here for instructions to make the broth and the cooked chicken for this recipe.

  • Flour, white, 1.5 cups*/215 grams
  • lard, 1/2 cup*/108 grams
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp
  • Water, iced, a few Tbls
  • Chicken, cooked, chopped, 3 cups*
  • Peas, fresh or frozen, cooked, 1.5 cups*
  • Carrots, cooked, chopped, 1 large
  • Cream, 3/4 cup*
  • Broth, 1.25 cups*
  • Nutmeg, freshly grated, a large pinch or two
  • Butter, 4 T
  • Flour for the roux, 5 T
*American cup size, 8 oz.

Equipment

Pastry board or smooth work surface
Rolling pin
Spatula, long, thin, metal, flat or offset
Parchment paper
9 inch pie plate (2)
Ramekin (2), 1 1/2 cup* size, oven proof
Wire whisk 

Instructions

The night before, reserve about an half of cup of water in the fridge.  Keep the lard cold but not frozen.  Though I heard that lard gives the best results, when I lived in America shortening ruled and lard was hard to come by.  Delightfully, that is not the case in France.  However, it seems lard is making a come back in the States.  See Related Links below to find substitutions for lard.

The next day start the filling followed by the pastry crust.  Chop the carrots into approximately 1/2 inch mince and toss into a small pot of boiling water for about 2-3 minutes.  Add the peas and simmer for about another 5-8 minutes, testing for tenderness.  Drain and reserve.


Melt the butter and add the flour gradually, stirring all the while.  Cook over low heat for a minute or two to get out the raw taste of the flour.  Traditionally the proportion in a roux is one to one for flour to butter, but I find that I can get away with less butter, hence 5 T flour to 4 T butter.


Pour into the pot as gradually as possible the chicken broth all the while stirring until smooth.  Use a wire whisk to get out any lumps. The substitution of chicken broth instead of milk makes the sauce at this stage a Velouté instead of the basic white sauce, Béchamel


Then stir in the cream.  With the addition of cream, the sauce now is a Suprême Sauce.  (One could say French sauces are a bit inbred. Add a touch of freshly grated nutmeg.


Simmer until nicely thick.


Then add in the peas, carrots, and chopped, cooked chicken. Salt per taste. Reserve covered in the pot off the heat.


A flaky, tender short-crust pastry is not something most will do fairly well at first go.  My first attempt decades ago resulted in a crust resembling cardboard in texture.  I then went into the opposite direction--it was so crumbly that the finished pie looked more like a patchwork quilt.  Eventually I got it right, but I must confess each time I make a pastry crust, I wonder if the quality will be OK.  But, it always is.  The nicest compliment I have received regarding my baking is when a friend whispered to me over the table that my pie crust is better than her grandmother's.  You too will be able consistently to turn out both savoury and sweet pies/turnovers that will delight your friends, family, and guests.

For something that needs just a few ingredients--flour, fat, water, and salt--the difficulty lies solely in the technique along with the understanding that since the age of flours differ, the older will be more absorbent, the younger less so.  Therefore, the addition of the right amount of water becomes challenging.

Mix flour and salt into a bowl.  Quickly cut the cold lard into small pieces and add.  Delia Smith goes against the consensus of using fat that is cold--check out her approach in Related Links at the end of this post.


Using your fingers, work the lard into the flour till there is a coarse mixture of mostly pea-sized pieces.  This should take no more than a few minutes--work fast and lightly.  A food processor can be used for this step by pulsing it several times.


Tablespoon by tablespoon add the ice water.


Immediately after each tablespoon, get those fingers underneath the mixture to make sure that no water is pooling there.  Your fingers need to search out any soggy bits which is a warning sign that you are adding too much water.  It usually takes 2.5 to 4 tablespoons when I make pastry dough which is quite a variation.  Right in the bowl, press the dough into a ball like mass from time to time to see if there is enough cohesion without the need to add any additional water.  Sometimes all that is needed to get that final bit of moisture is to wet your fingertips, and then touch any remaining dry bits.


When properly moistened, dump the contents onto a pastry board.


Knead lightly--no more than five times--into a ball.  Put in the fridge for at least 10 minutes; 30 minutes may be better to encourage elasticity. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F/220 degrees C


While the dough is chilling in the fridge, pour the filling into one 9 inch pie plate and one ramekin.  Have an empty pie plate and ramekin handy for cutting templates.


Remove the dough from the fridge and put it on a moderately floured board.  Flatten and flour it lightly.


Using a light and quick touch, roll it out which should take about a minute or so.  Starting with a back and forth motion, I then work from the centre, rolling it out all around the perimeter. Lightly dust the rolling pin and dough to prevent sticking.  The more flour is used, the less tender the crust will be, so lightly is the word.  It is entirely permissible to lop off non-needed dough and attach it to the places where it is needed.  Place another pie plate on the circle as a template and cut all around about an inch from the template.  Gather the scraps into a small ball and reserve in the fridge for latter rolling out for the ramekin's pastry top.

A long, narrow spatula (looks like a long, thin knife with a blunted end) is then used to loosen carefully the dough circle from the board.  Some roll the dough out on waxed paper which I have never used so I can't vouch for its effectiveness in ease of transferring the circle off the board.


Fold in half and slide on the pie plate with the filling, placing the folded edge right smack in the middle of the pie plate as you will not be able to adjust placement once it is unfolded.  Unfold. 


Tuck under dough so it does not overhang the plate.  Then make a decorative, fluted edge by using your left thumb and index finger on the inside perimeter to support the dough via indenting with the right index finger on the outside perimeter.  Slash to allow the escaping of steam during baking--start with the longest one in the centre and then work out to the sides with graduated smaller slashes.  Roll out the smaller circle to top the ramekin, using the spare ramekin as a template.  Any remaining scraps can be shaped into a small round and place on top of the ramekin.  Slash the ramekin pastry.

Put the finished pie and ramekin on a shallow baking pan lined with parchment paper to catch spills and make cleaning easier.  Put in oven for about 30 minutes, rotating it half way for even baking.  I need to do this though I use a convection setting which supposedly ensures even browning.


Remove when nicely browned, and let stand for about ten minutes before cutting so as to let the filling solidify a bit.


Bon appétit!

RELATED POSTS

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Velouté de Carottes
Making Chicken Stock with Whole Chickens

RELATED LINKS

Delia Smith short crust pastry instructions 
(How to roll out circles, squares, and oblongs, sifting flour and mixing from up high technique to increase lightness, not to mention the heresy of using room temperature lard/butter!)
Rose Levy Berenbaum’s fabled recipe for perfect short crust pastry at Joe Pastry
(All butter dough with additional cream cheese and a more complicated technique resulting in a superb pastry)
Joe Pastry's Standard short crust pastry
(Similar to mine but calls either for vegetable shortening or lard)

Tuesday, 20 November 2012

The Frugality of Chicken: Two Soups and a Pot Pie...and the pleasure of friendship

Chicken soup really does help in healing from colds.  Among other properties, its abundance of the amino acid cysteine clears congestion.  When a kid, I would be given canned chicken soup consisting of soggy noodles, tiny pieces of rehydrated chicken, and a broth spiked with MSG.  I was fairly content with fare like this until my early twenties when a Jewish boyfriend taught me how to make his aunt's hallowed version.


This recipe which has evolved through time is a culinary workhorse as I am able to make several different meals from its broth, carrots, and meat--a hearty chicken soup, velouté de carottes, and chicken pot pie.  As both The Calm One and I had colds recently, it was a boon to have several quarts of the soup in our freezer.

First the stock is made by barely covering two medium-sized chickens with water--if you can find a capon then both the soup and chicken pot pie will be even better.  While the water is coming to the boil, add 4 large, peeled, whole carrots, 3-4 medium onions, a few stalks of celery or a smaller amount of lovage, a few sage leaves, a small handful of peppercorns, one or two bay leaves, a couple sprigs of thyme, and several sprigs of parsley.  Do not add salt now because it may be necessary to reduce the broth, and it would then become too salty.  It is easier to skim off the foam before adding the herbs.

I skim off most of the foam without becoming obsessive about it

After an hour, check to see if the drumsticks move easily, but not so freely that they fall off the jointThe aim is not to overcook the breast meat as nothing is more disappointing than dry chicken.  Carefully remove each chicken onto a platter by inserting a large wooden spoon in its cavity while supporting its bottom with another wooden spoonRemove the carrots which will have soaked up the broth beautifully and will be soft and flavoursome.  Though crisp veggies are often regarded as desirable, sometimes savoury succulence wins as in this case.


Let the chickens cool enough for handling and bone them completely, putting everything, that is, the skin and bones, back into the stockpot while reserving the meat.  Simmer for another four hours to extract all the goodness.


Dayo stays in his box on his end of the long food-preparation table as I trained him as a kitten when cats are somewhat receptive to being told what to do.  He did make interesting faces though when I boned the chickens!


After removing as much of the bones and skin I can with a slotted spoon, the cooled stock is then strained through a mesh strainer.  I reserve about two quarts of stock and half the meat for the chicken soup.  Skim any fat off the surface of the broth.  Pour the broth into a suitable sized pot and add a cup of brown rice, simmering for about twenty minutes until the rice is very tender.  Meanwhile, chop the carrots and the chicken.


When the rice is soft, add the chopped carrots and chicken.  Voiladelectable chicken soup with a rich broth, chicken and carrot chunks, and brown rice!


When I first served this to my mum-in-law, she said I put too many solid bits into her soup-plate as she is used to thin soups served as a first course.  When I told her that is all she is going to eat, she then guided the ladle of solid bits I was removing from her bowl back into itEverybody at the table had a good chuckle.

Another quart of the broth is reserved for velouté de carottes.


The remaining half quart and the rest of the chicken is reserved for a pot pie.

Look for the recipe soon!

Feisal Kamil is a Malaysian friend I had the good fortune to meet on G+.  He recently came across a book that reminded him of me without knowing that said book is a classic often gifted to gardeners:  The Country Diary of an Edwardian Lady.   Being the affectionate and generous person he is, he sent it off to me with a note apologising for it being second hand.  I countered his apology with my insisting its aged cream pages coupled with an enticing old-book smell only increased his gift's charm.


It is a book impossible to review in the ordinary manner as one only can experience it personally in all its enchanting uniqueness.  Edith Holden supplemented her neat, cautious calligraphy with her own watercolour illustrations of flowers, birds, and trees she saw on her country walks.


Her book, as far as I can see, only makes sense if it is read like a diary which means since it came into my life in November I started my reading at that point.   Her November entry has this poem by Burns:

Sing on sweet thrush, upon the leafless bough,
Sing on sweet bird, I listen to thy strain,
And aged Winter, mid his early reign,
At thy blythe carol, clears his furrowed brow.

Her own 1906 observations made in England during November overlap with those I am experiencing presently in France:  foraging for mushrooms, noting plants gone to seed--cow-parsnip and dock for her, fennel and broccoli for me--and her describing...the scanty foliage on the half bare Oak trees which brings to mind I soon will be going to the small Oak copse nearby to bag up all those precious leaves to make the superlative treat for any garden, leaf mould. 

There are still a few flowers brightening up our garden.

Japanese anemones

Sweet Alyssum

The lavender are still putting out a bud here and there

But mostly, there are fallen leaves.

Rose of Sharon beginning its dormancy

Soon there will be sedge after sedge of loudly honking cranes flying overhead with their necks gracefully outstretched as they wend their way to North Africa.  Their migration heralds the beginning of our cold but short winter and a chance for Dayo to transfix his gaze at the grey sky.

À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS

Chicken Pot Pie

Tuesday, 13 November 2012

Pizza with Tomatoes, Parmesan, Mozzarella, Mushrooms, and Sausage

Pizza here in France can be good though being made and presented differently than to what I was accustomed in New York City, as in having crème fraîche sometimes substituting for tomatoes and of course containing various French cheeses like Gruyère.   Excellent pizza is usually sold from a specially dedicated truck or a kiosk often kept in permanent locations.  However, some restaurant chains, whose names I will not mention, should be ashamed of themselves, or at least the people who pay to eat the kept-hot-under-lamps sawdust crusts/canned fillings should be.


I miss seeing industrious NYC pizzaiolos adorned with their colourful neck bandanas as they energetically flip large circles of pliable dough while dewdrops of artisanale sweat moisten their earnest faces all the while smiling at their sidewalk admirers through the gleaming, plate-glass shop windows.  You just have to go in and get some of what they are making.

My pizza though inspired by the NYC style, that is, it boasts of a very thin and tasty crust and abundant cheese, is of course, not baked in a professional oven.  My home oven will only fit 8 inch pizzas, so the slices are not the typical over-sized triangles of NYC pizza.  Many people aspire to be NYC natives, but unless you can walk gracefully down a busy city while delicately folding a huge triangle in half and eating it without pausing in your stride or dribbling any of its molten ingredients down the front of you, then this jury of one will hold her verdict.

Ingredients
Makes two 20 cm pizzas plus extra dough to be frozen for two more 20 cm pizzas.

  • Flour, white, 425 grams
  • Olive oil, extra virgin, 1 T
  • Salt, preferably coarse, 1 tsp
  • Yeast, active dry, 2 tsp
  • sugar, 1.5 tsp 
  • Water, warm, about 250 ml
  • Tomatoes, plum, fresh or canned, about 6
  • Mozarella, sliced thinly, approx 300 grams, about 22 slices,
  • Parmesan, grated, 1/2 cup*
  • Sausages, sweet Italian or Toulouse, removed from casings, sauteed, two
  • Mushrooms, fresh or frozen, lightly sauteed in olive oil, 1 cup* (canned may be used, but they will taste less appetising;  frozen mushrooms can release a lot of liquid, so drain them and use their juices for broth)
* based on the American measure of 8 oz 

Equipment

  • Pastry board or glass chopping board which will also be used as a peel to place safely the pizzas into a hot oven
  • Silicon or very thick cloth oven mitts/potholder
  • Resistant-to-high-temperature shallow oven pans or a pizza stone
  • Oven-proof parchment paper
  • Mixer with dough hook, though dough can be kneaded by hand
Making dough

The night before make the dough which will be left overnight in the fridge for a slow, cold rise to develop irresistibly tasty, naturally forming chemical compounds.  Put flour in the bowl of a bread mixer and make two wells, one for the yeast, sugar, and warm water and the other for salt and olive oil.


Mix for about 12 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.  Remove from hook and place in a lightly oiled bowl.  Flip the dough ball over so the oiled surface is on top.  Cover and keep it overnight in the fridge twelve hours as a minimum and twenty-four hours as the maximum.


Assembly

The next day, preheat oven and pans to 475 to 500 (as hot as you can bear working with such heat) degrees F.  Remove dough from the fridge and let warm to room temperature.


Lay out all the toppings.  Break up the cooked and cooled sausage meat into tiny pieces, using your fingers and separating the amount into two equal portions.  Put the sauteed mushrooms on a plate and separate into two equal portions.  Keep the sliced mozzarella and grated Parmesan close by, dividing them into two equal portions.  If tomatoes are fresh, remove skins by dipping briefly in boiling water and chop coarsely.  If canned, just chop them.  Divide the tomatoes into two equal portions.

Preparation of crusts

Weigh out into two equal balls.  Wrap one for the freezer for future pizzas and halve the remaining one.


Place the two smaller balls on their floured oven paper and flatten with your hands a bit.  Then with a finger depress all around the perimeter an inch in from the edge to allow for the crust.


As dough warms to room temperature, it will be easier to pull and press the balls into two round circles.


Finish stretching and pressing the two crusts till their diameters are roughly 20 cm, and the circle is about 1/8 to 1/4 thick.  I love this part of the process.  Perhaps it was my years of working with pottery clay and throwing pots that enables me to enjoy working with dough--my fingers became very sensitive to the thickness of clay walls as I would raise rotating cylinders on the wheel.  Pizza dough's stretchiness is pretty accommodating.  Your finger tips have loads of nerve endings, so let them tell you if the crust has been evenly stretched; just work out the thicker parts and fatten up the thinner parts as the dough is very elastic.  You could just press the dough into a round pan, but making a pizza circle free form is a lovely skill to have.


All the toppings are set out

Spread the tomatoes on both circles.  Lay the sliced mozzarella and sprinkle with the Parmesan.

These Mozzarella slice are too thick, so try to keep them much thinner

Distribute the sausage pieces and end with a layer of mushrooms.  Using a glass/wooden pastry board as a peel, slide the pie with its paper into the HOT pan/on the stone in the HOT oven.  Take great care in doing so, using adequate protection for your hands.


Bake for 6-7 minutes and then rotate the pans and bake for a further 6-7.  Remove the pans, sliding the pie and its paper on a cutting surface.  Since home ovens are way less hot than professional ones, the bottom will not have the characteristic spots of charring, but it should be a nice golden brown.  Using a pizza cutter or a sharp knife, make four slices The too thickly sliced Mozarella caused a cheese-lava spill--certainly a delicious and appetizing one--but still, causing a diminishing of its finger-food status.  And yes, I still fold these smaller triangles in half as a nostalgic gesture.

Any uneaten pizza can be frozen and be reheated either in a covered casserole in a 350 degrees F oven for about 30 to 45 minutes or in the microwave.  If still frozen, the pizza will take longer to get fully hot. And please, if you are one of those oddballs who enjoy congealed, tepid pizzas, I don't want to know about it!


With plentiful rain, the grass has grown tall and is too much a treat to be passed up by Dayo.


Autumn is the best time to plant garlic, though an early spring planting would work also.  I grew enough this season to be able to use my own stock. I am using the largest bulbs from the late July harvest.

The biggest heads are on the left

Per Margaret Roach at A Way to Garden if only the biggest garlic cloves are selected, then eventually all that will be harvested are jumbo heads of large cloves--artificial selection at work.  The cloves are separated and only the larger outer ones are planted.  The rest of course are happily eaten.  If in a pinch, it is possible as long as the garlic has not been treated to suppress sprouting, to use supermarket/farmer's market garlic for your planting.  If you are interested in growing your own or improving what you are already growing, make sure to check out the various relevant posts written by Margaret--she knows her stuff!


Loosen soil with a spade or fork, remove weeds, add compost, and rake level.  With the rake's end make furrows about 2 inches deep and 4-6 inches apart in a block bed.  Put cloves about 4-6 inches apart in each short row.  Cover the furrow with earth and tamp down.  Normally, I would thoroughly moisten the bed with a light spray, but the soil is still quite soppy from almost constant rain.  The rain is doing a good job preparing the garden for the winter as it is terribly stressful for plants to endure winter if their roots are dry.

Note the the few back rows are already tamped down

As the temperatures continue to fall, I am on the guard to protect any vulnerable plants and have potted up the chives.  They will spend the short winter on a sunny sous sol window.


There are several young sweet bay leaf (Laurus nobilis) shrubs in my gardenBay leaves are one of the ingredients comprising bouquet garni, an indispensable feature in French cuisine. The leaves are harvested from all around the plant as to prevent bare spots and set out to dry for about two-three days.  They are then stored in recycled spice bottles.  As their invigorating fragrance is one of my favourites, I often toss a nice handful into my hot bath.


There usually is one head of broccoli that bolts into flowering because of a surprise bout of warm weather.  Their soft-yellow is a welcomed addition to the typically sombre autumnal palette.


This Abelia with its lovely arching branches is about thirteen years old and spent most of its life in a small pot on the balcony of our Grenoble apartment.  It is very happy to be in real soil and to be near bees that love its honey fragrance and nectar, hence its name. It is a wonderful, semi-evergreen bush for the garden as it holds visual interest all year round.  It sparkly white flowers are mostly gone and in their place are red sepals.


À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS

Improvements on my basic pizza recipe