Wednesday, 10 April 2013

Birthday Dinner: A Vegetarian Three-Course Menu for Rajini

A group of G+ friends scattered all over the world virtually got together to send a superb bottle of Pinot Noir as a birthday gift to Rajini Rao--a passionate G+ science curator/professor of biochemistry at Hopkins and a general-all-around sweetheart. Our mutual friend, the ever gallant William McGarvey, then suggested I make up a menu to go with this versatile wine. After some research, I created some comestibles while being robustly vegetarian would marry satisfactorily with it.

The Menu
(serves four)

Confit of Roasted Cauliflower Marinated in Sherry Vinegar & Thyme.


Lentil, Porcini, Cashew/Yogurt Cream Ragout & Sauteed Polenta


Individual Top-Crust Strawberry Pies With Dark Chocolate Ganache & Candied Violets.


Several changes from the original menu given to Rajini were necessary, and some of them involved the dessert. Since finger food is fun, I thought strawberry hand-pies half-dipped in ganache would be a comely dessert. After two separate attempts, the strawberry filling kept on bubbling right out through the pastry envelope. Don't worry, no hand pie was neglected. The warm ones duly were put into ramekins, well dusted with powdered sugar, and eaten. With a spoon. When cold, they could be eaten by hand, just not dipped neatly into ganache.

The Calm One and I enjoyed these near hits!

If you are planning to have a formal dinner for guests instead of just making one of the courses or having a come-what-may informal dinner for friends/family, I would suggest the following work-flow:

1)  The day before make everything that can be made in advance:  marinating the cauliflower, the ragout, the polenta loaf, the cashew/yogurt cream, the completed strawberry pies minus the candied violets' topping which can be done just before serving.  If you want the ganache to be more 'melty' than not, it is best to make it close to presenting the dessert to your guests.

2)  The day of the dinner, take the pies and cashew/yogurt cream out of the fridge to come to room temperature several hours before dinner will be served.  You can give an apéritif to your guests while you roast the cauliflower, saute the polenta slices (keep warm in a low oven), and reheat gently the ragout.  Serve the cauliflower confit as soon as it comes out of the oven (once it is garnished).

3)  Assemble the entree after the first course is finished, either on a serving platter or on individual plates.

4)   Garnish the pies with the violets after the entree is finished and serve the dessert.

5)  Voila!

First course:

Ingredients

  • Cauliflower, whole head, medium-sized
  • olive oil, 200 ml
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp
  • Sherry vinegar, 100 ml
  • Thyme, dried, 1 tsp
  • Olives, pimento stuffed, jumbo, about 20
  • Fleur de sel, for sprinkling on the finished dish

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.  Remove leaves and slice off stalk--if necessary you may dig in a little deeper to get any woody stalk/buried leaves, but be careful not to cut off any connecting network for the florets or it will be difficult to get whole slices.  Rinse and dry the head. Slice from top to bottom with a sharp knife--ceramic would be ideal--about 1/4 inch thick. It's OK if some slices crumble into small pieces, but try to get two whole slices for each serving. If you can't, tant pis.

Sherry/Xérès vinegar is a wonderful condiment as it brightens up food while having a 'friendly' acidity.

In a large, shallow, non-reactive dish--ceramic, glass, stainless steel--whisk the vinegar, olive oil, thyme, and salt together. Place the cauliflower in a single layer and spoon the marinade over them.  Depending on how much cauliflower there is, you may need to make more marinade--the marinade should come half way up the thickness of the slices to get a confit effect, less will result in more of a pickled result. Marinate covered overnight.


Line a shallow baking tray with parchment paper. Lifting the slices with a slotted spatula when transferring from the marinade to the baking tray will help to drain the cauliflower of excess liquid. Make sure you use a baking tray with sides because the olive oil will ooze out during baking. This style of cooking is more a mix of braising and roasting.

Roast on the middle rack for about 20 minutes or till nicely browned and tender, turning the slices half way through. Be sure to test the solid central parts with a knife's tip for tenderness. Be careful not to go overboard and char them.

While the cauliflower is baking, thinly cut the olives into circular slices, reserving a few whole ones for halving.  Arrange decoratively the cauliflower and olives on either a serving platter or individual plates. If you find the cauliflower a little too dripping with marinade, blot them. Best served hot, when cooler the cauliflower wrinkles and gets soggy a bit, though I certainly would not refuse to eat them coldBefore serving, sprinkle with fleur de sel.


The first course turned out well--lusciously permeated with olive oil while boasting depth of flavour and brightness of taste thanks to the Xeres/thyme/fleur de sel making me look forward to the rest of the dinner which is what a worthy appetiser does.  If one is not fond of pimento-stuffed olives as a garnish, try substituting marinated artichoke hearts or capers or black olives.

Entree/Main Course: 

Ingredients

  • Lentils, brown, rinsed and picked over for stones, 1 cup*/220 grams
  • Olive oil, 2 T
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp
  • Porcini, dried, two small handfuls and their liquor, 4 cups*/1 liter (add water to the porcini liquor if necessary to get the recommended amount of total liquid)
  • red pepper flakes, 1/4 tsp or more per preference
  • Ginger, frozen or fresh, chopped, 1 T
  • Garlic, frozen or fresh, chopped, 1 T
  • Cashew butter, 2 rounded tablespoons
  • Yogurt, whole milk, 125 ml/4 oz
  • Tomato paste, 4 T
  • Polenta, 180 grams/1 cup* (add 3/4 liter/3 cups* of water)
  • Butter, as needed to sauteed the polenta slices
* American measure, that is, 8 oz cups.

Prepare dried porcini/ceps, reserving the liquid.  Chop them coarsely. Saute garlic and ginger in two tablespoons of olive oil for a minute. Add the lentils and stir for another minute. Add the chopped porcini and their liquid, red pepper flakes, salt, and tomato paste.


Simmer, covered, for about a hour until lentils are soft and most of the liquid is gone--the consistency needs to be thick but still very moist. Add some water if necessary.  When finished, season to taste with additional salt if desired.

While lentils are simmering, make the polentaUsing a medium size saucepan, stir polenta into the water. While stirring, bring to a boil and then simmer, stirring frequently, for about ten minutes.  


Oil a small loaf pan and fill with the polenta and reserve in the fridge. 


While the polenta is solidifying and the lentils are simmering make the cashew/yogurt cream.  Put the cashew butter in a small mixing bowl along with the yogurt.

Cashew butter resembles coffee ice cream but I think it's more delicious!

Beat smooth with a stick mixer.  A fork and/or a balloon whisk can be used instead but it will take much longer.


Un-mold the polenta and slice it about a quarter inch thick. Saute on each side for several minutes in a couple of tablespoons of butter in a large skillet until warm and a little browned on their edges. If your pan is not big enough to accommodate all the slices, keep the sauteed ones in a warm oven until all are done. Arrange the slices attractively on a plate (cut 2 slices in half diagonally to get the 4 centre pieces).


Spoon ragout on all the slices.  Top each slice with yogurt/cashew cream. Serve immediately.  


I really liked the entree--it's hearty, comforting, and yet elegant.  The lentil ragout also tastes very good cold as is and probably could be blended to make a dip/spread. Any leftover polenta can be sauteed in butter and topped with warm jam or maple syrup and yogurt making a lovely breakfast like I have done with left-over oatmeal.

Dessert:

Ingredients:

  • Strawberries, fresh or frozen in light syrup, 480 grams/2 cups*
  • Flour, 1 T
  • Sugar, 4 T if not using berries frozen in syrup, 
  • Basic short pastry (substitute butter for the lard), or prepared vegetarian pastry enough for a 9 inch top pie crust
  • Chocolate, dark, over 64% or higher cacao content, 115 grams/4 oz, broken in pieces.
  • Cream, heavy, 1/2 cup*/120 ml/
  • Butter, 14 grams/1 T
  • Candied violets, 4 tsp, finely chopped while reserving 4 whole.
*American measure, that is, 8 oz cups

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.  Wash, hull, and chop strawberries.  If frozen in a light syrup as I did with my garden berries, then no added sugar is necessary. If using raw, add the sugar. Add the flour and stir well.  Fill each ramekin about one inch from the top.


Roll out the pastry and using a 3-inch ramekin as a template, cut around it leaving an extra inch.  Make four rounds.


Lift the rounds with a thin spatula and place on the ramekins. Crimp the edges and make a few slashes.  There will be left over pastry which can be frozen for future pies--gather the scraps into a ball--or you make more than four pies (you will need more filling of course) or you could roll out the remaining in a rectangle, sprinkle it with cinnamon, roll up tightly length-wise, slice, and arrange them on a baking sheet.  Bake at 425 degrees F.  Sprinkle with powdered sugar.


Place the pies on parchment-lined baking trays and put them in oven.  Bake about 15 minutes until golden brown.


While the pies are baking, make the ganache.  Directions are here.  Chop up the candied violets, reserving 4 whole ones.  As the pies cool, gently press down the inner circle of pastry, excluding the crust to create a cavity for the ganache.  Spread the ganache up to the crimped edges. Work quickly spreading the ganache as it loses its liquidity fairly fast.

As it gets thicker, finish off the topping with a 3 petal pattern--ease dollops off a small spoon onto the centres. If needs be, the ganache can be gently re-heated to get it liquid again. Then sprinkle each with the chopped, candied violets, placing a whole one smack in the middle.  Best served tepid.  Any left-over (ha!) ganache can be put in the fridge until solid, then made into small balls and rolled in crushed nuts or cocoa.


These were gorgeous in taste and looks.  Also the juices did not run down my arm. Take that, strawberry hand pie!


Bon appétit and à la prochaine! 

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

Braised Leek, Bacon & Parmesan Calzone

The flexibility of culinary methods and ingredients across recipes has always interested me.  For example, I made dough for pizza.  What else could I use it for?  Calzone, that's what!


As a kid growing up in New York City, I found calzone intimidating.  That yeasty, swollen envelope could encompass a whole world, and if I opened up one, well, then that world would end.  One day, my curiosity got the better of me, and I ate one.  Lo and behold, its world became a happy part of me!  I am a staunch advocate for finger food -- it's fun, it's convenient, less stuff to wash up, and you get to lick your fingers!

Ingredients
(makes 4 calzone, several breadsticks)

  • Leeks, thoroughly washed, white & light green, tender parts, sliced, 417 grams/4 1/4 cups*
  • Butter, sweet, 30 grams/2 T (if salted butter is used, you may need less additional salt)
  • Bacon, 8 slices
  • Red pepper flakes, 1/4 tsp
  • Parmesan, fresh grated, 8 T
  • Pizza Dough, preferably home-made or already prepared (enough for four, seven-inch pies or the equivalent)
  • Olive oil, for glazing
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp

*American measure, that is, 8 oz cups 

Why leeks you may ask?  The leeks I planted last spring will start to go to seed as they are biennials. When gone to seed, veggies often turn bitter so I harvested the remaining leeks.


Fry or broil the bacon.  Blot off the excess fat and when cool, crumble into small pieces. Gather the rest of the ingredients.


Melt the butter in a skillet, add the sliced leeks, red pepper flakes, and about 1/4 tsp of salt and simmer, while covered, for about 15 minutes until tender.  If necessary, add a tiny bit of water to keep them from browning.  You want the leeks to be succulent. 


Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees F.  Place the leeks in a strainer positioned over a bowl and using a spoon press out as much liquid as possible.


Mix the bacon pieces into the strained leeks.


Divide into four portions and reserve.


Roll out roughly an approximately six-inch circle of dough about 1/8th inch thick on a floured surface.


Using a plate approximately 6 inches wide as a template, cut out a neat circle.


Spread evenly one portion of the filling on one half of the dough circle, keeping one inch of the edge bare.  Sprinkle with two tablespoons of grated Parmesan.  With a finger, moisten with water the circumference, making sure you do not wet the exact edge as it will make the underside gummy, making transfer of the calzone to a baking sheet problematic.


Pull the empty half over the filled one, stretching the dough gently to make ends meet.  Seal completely the two edges, leaving a flattened inch of rim while pushing the filling together as much as possible to eliminate air pockets. Crimp as in making dumplings.  Lift it with a wide spatula and place on parchment-lined baking trays.  Repeat the entire process for the other three Calzone.

Gather scraps of dough into a ball and pull off two-inch lumps.  While splaying your fingers, roll out the lumps into breadsticks, making sure you work on a clean surface, free of any flour.  Also wash your hands to ensure they are not floury.  Or else you will get flattened sticks and not nice round ones.


Bake the calzone and breadsticks for about twenty minutes until nicely browned.  Place them on a wire rack and using a pastry brush, a piece of paper towel, or your fingers, coat each calzone with olive oil for a nice sheen and also for additional flavour.

The Calzone are sharing the wire-rack with a heap of freshly picked thyme



They are best warm.  However, they can be eaten cold with little loss of flavour.  They also can be frozen and reheated in a covered dish in a 350 degrees F oven for about 20 minutes or in a microwave.  The breadsticks are delicious eaten hot, but if not eaten immediately, cool them, and put them in an airtight container or else they get soggy.  They could be crisped in the oven.


In the garden, signs of spring are continuing.  Soon the first veggie of the season can be harvested, pea shoots!  They go well with pasta and omelettes.



Though tulips are lovely, most do not naturalise and need to be replaced regularly.  Therefore, I plant species tulips like the splendid Fosteriana ones with their varied, bright hues which do stick around and increase on their own.




Until my nursery order with its asparagus crowns, onion sets, seed potatoes, and bare-root blueberries arrives--I needed to cancel my original order placed two months ago because of various problems and recently ordered from other nurseries--I will be focused on runcation (weeding!), transplanting, mowing/strimming, taking cuttings to generate more plants, and looking over our garden's wall at this splendid ornamental cherry tree shaking out its pink coverlet of blossoms.

The front garden:  Prunier d'Ente in the foreground



Dayo is staying out more and more so we need to be vigilant on maintaining his flea control program.  After all, his vet is fond of saying that cats are just restaurants for fleas.

I love how he aeroplanes his ears that way!

À la prochaine.

RELATED LINKS

Making Pizza
Sowing leeks and making twice-baked potatoes stuffed with leeks
Leek, apple, thyme rustic tart
Leek and potato soup

Tuesday, 26 March 2013

Golden Shrimp Chowder

During my childhood in New York City, my favourite soup was creamy New England Clam Chowder.  I know, I know, being a New Yorker I am supposed to be partial to a thinnish, tomato-based monstrosity called Manhattan Clam Chowder.  For me a chowder has to be thick, milky, salty, floury, and redolent with black pepper in order to be called a chowder.


I have yet to find large, succulent clams in France that I use for making a really good chowder, but it is easy to find fairly decent frozen, prepared shrimp.   Though substituting shrimp for clams, this recipe still retains many characteristics of my favourite chowderLacking cream and butter, this soup isn't highly caloric as its richness and golden colour relies on some of the shrimp and carrots being blended.

Ingredients
(makes 5 servings or lunch/supper for two)

  • Flour, white, 5 T
  • Shrimp, frozen, and already prepared/cooked, 1 1/4 cups*/200 grams
  • Water, 4 1/4 cups*/1 liter
  • Shrimp liquid, 1/4 cup*/60 ml
  • Carrots, small dice, 1 cup*/160 grams
  • Potatoes, cubed, 2 cups*/260 grams
  • Rosemary, fresh, 2 small sprigs (surplus can be dried) or dried, a large pinch
  • Milk, about 2 cups*/475 ml (depending on desired thickness)
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
*American measure, that is 8 fluid oz cups.

Gather your ingredients.


Either thaw shrimp or gently heat frozen shrimp.

Heat shrimp gently for just a minute or two as not to make them rubbery.

Wring shrimp with your hands as dry as possible letting the liquid run into a small bowl.  Reserve shrimp. Pour the shrimp liquid into a medium-size pot and add the water.  While the soup base is being brought to a simmer, cube potatoes and dice carrots.  Carrots need to be in smaller pieces than the potatoes.  Simmer carrots for about five minutes till half tender.


Add potatoes and cook for another ten minutes or until the veggies are tender.  Remove one half of the veggies and add them to the reserved shrimp.


Add one half to two thirds of the shrimp to the pot and blend the contents till smooth.  You can add extra shrimp if you want a stronger presence of seafood.


Add some pot liquid to flour in a bowl and blend with a hand-held mixer till smooth. You can cream the flour with the hot liquid with a spoon, rubbing the mixture on the sides of the bowl until lump free but it is a laborious task.


Add more pot liquid to flour mixture until it is on the thinnish side.  Whisk well.


Add back to pot and cook while stirring for five minutes till thickened and raw taste of the flour is gone.  Add rosemary and milk.


Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Simmer gently while stirring a few minutes more or until nicely thickened.  If desired, soup can be made thicker with more flour paste or thinner with more milk. The rosemary bits can be sieved out using a slotted spoon if desired though I leave them in because they add a pretty touch.

Add the remaining veggies and shrimp and heat gently for a minute or two. Though subtly flavoured, this soup is satisfying both visually and taste-wise with its warm colour, veggie chunks, and unctuous consistency.


In the potager, the last bits of pruning are being done and transplanting is getting under way.  The grapes vines were one of the last candidates for pruning.  There are two common ways of vine pruning, cane and spur--I prefer the latter method.  Grapes are produced on the previous season's growth, therefore, it is necessary to cut back that growth to several buds.  If it is cut back completely, no grapes will form this late summer/early fall.

Before pruning

After pruning

The buds should be spaced several inches apart on the vine's scaffolding.

One of ten vines, a make-shift birdbath, and a blackberry bush in the right background.

I had already transplanted two rhubarb, but kept procrastinating about doing the third and last one.  Dayo graciously reminded me of this pressing task--which needs to get done before the plant fully leafs out--by skirting around the end of the bed that still was home to unproductive, four-year-old strawberry plants requiring removal as to allow room for the remaining rhubarb transplant.


Since rhubarb needs to be kept moist, I made watering wells around each plant.  As mulch is so precious in my garden, I will wait for this entire bed to be filled in fairly rapidly with their large, exuberant leaves.  The huge leaves will act as a living mulch.  Before that happens, I will scratch in an organic, balanced fertilizer (NPK of 10-10-10) around each plant and water well.

That scattering of white flowers in the upper left are wild English daisies.

Relieved that I finally gotten around to finishing the rhubarb transplanting, Dayo was able to relax in the sun, rolling about and joyously rubbing himself against the patio.


Being no slacker, Dayo soon returned to active duty, on alert for any unfinished chores.


À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS

Transplanting rhubarb
General pruning instructions
Strawberry general care
Rhubarb Crumble