Tuesday, 30 July 2013

Chilled Golden Shrimp Chowder...and nature's pruning

With temperature in the nineties, my focus continues to be serving refreshing versions of staple menu items like Golden Shrimp Chowder.


Into very chilled, well seasoned, and blended-til-smooth chowder, I stirred in some heavy cream. Then I squirted some more cream in a lively zig zag pattern right from its carton. Chiffonade of basil was scattered on top, with extra placed in the middle which served as support for a few cooked shrimp. This soup is an ideal comfort food for hot days: creamy, tasty, substantial, but always cool, mon grand.

Merrily squirting cream about was akin to finger painting, once removed

Nature's pruners have been busy chez nous.  They first came about a week ago, during the night, bringing pelting rain and whistling wind as their tools. Lightning and thunder were their illumination and music, aiding them in their efforts though their work was just preparatory and mostly invisible.

A few days later they visited and again it was at night.  This time they brought machetes, buzzsaws, and bulldozersApparently they decided some trees needed to be déraciné (uprooted) while others required severe amputations despite it being the wrong season for such surgery.

Green Gage plum with a ton of unripe fruit was uprooted

The forty-foot pear tree got a brutal pruning of a major limb.  Happily there's lots of  unripe pears remaining

Red Delicious apple tree was split right down the middle

Decisive as they were, they were also unfortunately quite sloppy, letting felled branches crush other standing trees, bushes, and plants while strewing the paths with fallen unripe fruit which made for wobbly perambulation.

The harvested onions and garlic curing under the pergola got a thorough bath.

After a few hours in the sun, they were once again dry and safe from rotting

Small pots with young plants enjoyed flying lessons though they did not learn how to land where they took off and could be found not only throughout the garden but outside of it. Iterating the old adage there are old pilots and bold pilots, but no old, bold pilots fell on limp leaves.

Saponaria and Dianthus 'pilots' needed a little TLC but are now nicely recovered from their dashing exploits

Some workers evidently took time off to play a quirky rendition of musical chairs.

Chairs found themselves in various spots in the garden.

Others attended a wedding where they threw flowers at the happy couple.

They chose lavender Rose of Sharon (probably matching the bride's dress)

Kudos to the worker with obviously artistic sensibilities who could see clearly that a commercial sign needed repositioning!


But all in all, the garden was better off for their attention: cleaner, more vibrant, and healthier. Though the work party got a little rough at times, they gratefully did not take the roof down.

The most prominent flowers in our garden at high summer are Rose of Sharon

However, nature could hire a clean-up crew which would sit perfectly well with me.

Monsieur M will cut the trunk (I lopped off all its branches) into firewood with his electric saw.

Dayo is progressing very well after his paw surgery.  His stitches were removed, and his toe looks great.  If healing continues at this pace, he will be able to resume his garden duties fairly soon ending his four-months-long (le pauvre!) incapacitation. 

Special delivery:  the latest Nike model!

He is gaining back weight while his coat is returning to its glossy self.

À la prochaine!

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Tuesday, 23 July 2013

Carmelised Blackberry Ice Cream Sundae

Being awash in blackberries, I am focused on using them in recipes.  Of course, fully ripe berries, with their heady, almost alcoholic flavour, are glorious simply sprinkled with a little sugar.  Though blackberries are a wonderful addition to various cake batters from shortbread to cobblers to coffee cake, the temperature chez nous has been in the upper nineties, therefore the oven stays unused for now. This sauce is a twist on a basic coulis, and it is an attractive one, as I adore all things caramel. The sauce also freezes well. However, what I appreciate most about it is that the fresh taste of blackberries remains intact as the berry coulis is added after the carmelised syrup is made.


Ingredients
(makes about 3/4 of a quart)

  • Blackberries, fully ripe, 1 quart
  • Sugar, 3 cups*
  • Water, 2 cups*
  • Lemon juice, freshly squeezed, several tablespoons
  • Ice cream (I used vanilla)
  • Fresh blackberries/frozen sauce for garnishing
*American measure, that is, 8 oz

Rinse berries.


Mash/crush them with a potato masher/blender/food processor/stick mixer.


Strain the pulp via a sieve or Foley mill.


You will have about two cups of puree.  Add lemon juice to taste. Reserve in the fridge.


Carmelising sugar is an interesting process, taking about one and a half hours.  A half a cup of water is added to the sugar in a spacious, heavy bottom saucepan.  Over medium low heat, the mixture is stirred from time to time.


In about forty-five minutes or so the water will evaporate. At first the mixture becomes thick.


Then it morphs into a lumpy, stiff mass.


Eventually it goes back to be being dry like the original sugar, but the texture is fluffy and powdery.


Finally it partially melts into soft lumps while turning golden. Be careful not to scorch it, adjusting the heat if necessary.


Take it off the heat.  Add the remaining one and a half cups of water and stir/whisk well.


Put the pot back on the heat until all the carmelised sugar is dissolved which takes about ten to fifteen minutes. The syrup will be a golden brown.


Check the chilled coulis if additional lemon juice is needed to brighten up the flavour.  Add it to the syrup. Chill well. The chilled sauce was a bit cloudy so I skimmed the top.


Once frozen, it's more like icy, gooey candy.


In a tall dessert dish/goblet/glass, layer some ice cream, then a few blackberries and sauce, another layer of ice cream, berries, and sauce, finishing with ice cream, sauce, berries, and a wodge of the frozen sauce.  If you want a less sweet, dryer presentation, use the sauce sparingly.  I didn't! This sundae was sublime--sweet, fruity, and cooling. 


The lozenge of intensely flavoured sherbert gleamed like a huge jewel.


The Calm One being quite fond of Ribena, a British fruit drink concentrate, suggested diluting the sauce to make a refreshing beverage which worked out well. The sauce can be frozen as ice cubes for more convenience -- just plop three cubes into a small glass of chilled water.


In the potager, the three blackberry bushes are putting out their first flush of berries.  The second flush will happen late summer.  This variety is thornless, so the ample harvest of giant berries is easily done.  If a gentle pull on the berry does not remove it from the bush, then that means it is not ripe enough. A ripe berry will not only be completely black and fragrant, but also each of its drupelets will be swollen and plump, touching each other. In addition to the berry-laden canes, there are several new canes which are the future fruit bearers for next season.  These need to be pruned about three feet from the ground.  Late winter, any side branches from these main canes will be trimmed to an one-foot length.

The first two canes on the left are new seasonal growth and will be fruit bearing next summer

They need to be watered deeply several times weekly, though I have never fertilised or staked them. I can't say I dutifully weed their beds either! Hence the care is minimal and in return you get an abundant, delicious harvest. However, like most fruits and veggies, they need loads of sunshine.

Our veterinary surgeon explained why Dayo's toe injury refused to heal.  Dayo's injured claw had needed to be completely clipped as it was no longer able to retract. As his new claw grew, it would retreat somewhere only to go to a different spot on another day. This back-and-forth motion essentially created holes in Dayo's paw!  His operation was a cross between a declawing and a partial amputation as only the last joint on his toe was removed.


He is recovering from the operation well and will most likely need to remain indoors for several weeks.


For a while, he would disappear for hours at a time, usually on the day when we needed to bring him to his doctor. One day, I decided to lure him out from wherever he was by opening noisily a can of tuna which along with butter is his favourite food.

We finally identified his hiding place!

À la prochaine! 

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Chilled Summer-Berry Lasagne

Years ago, I came across a recipe for an old-fashioned sweet dish called summer pudding.  Though a fruit dessert not requiring oven use during les beaux jours was appealing, lining a bowl with ordinary white bread, no matter how wondrously soaked those slices would become with delicious berry juice, left me pondering how unattractive a soggy 'crust' sounds and how challenging it would be to unmould.


Fast forward to today, I discovered the trick is to use sturdy white bread, like a good bakery loaf of sourdough white, instead of mass-produced rectangles of mostly air.  Another is to depart from the classic form and do a more elegant layered presentation thereby obviating the need for a fragile bread shell.  Most importantly, this approach does not look as if you plopped a bowl over a bunch of lightly stewed fruit and gave it a hasty haircut!

Ingredients
(makes 3 individual four oz servings, but recipe can be doubled)

  • A mix of berries like blackberries, raspberries, black/red currants, blueberries, 1 quart (I used my garden's bounty: 1 cup* strawberries/raspberries, 1.5 cup* red currants, 1 cup* of blackberries, 1/2 cup* black currants).  If a coulis is desired, then toss in a couple more cups of berries and add sugar to taste)
  • Sugar, 3/8 cup*
  • Salt, coarse/kosher, a pinch
  • Bread, 9 slices, 1/4 inch thick (I used sourdough white)
  • Lemon juice, 1 T
  • Cream, heavy
  • Vanilla extract to flavour the cream if desired
  • Berries, whole for garnishing
  • Confectioner's sugar for dusting

*American measure, that is, 8 oz

The berry harvest chez nous is coming along nicely. This fruit laden lasagne along with a copious amount of coulis is a more pleasant way of using up a lot of fruit than my usual tending a cauldron filled with boiling jam.


If using strawberries, slice them 1/4 inch thick and put in a large skillet along with the sugar.  Stir over medium heat for about five minutes until the berries release their juice but are still intact and the sugar is dissolved.


Add the rest of the fruit and simmer for five minutes until there are loads of liquid.


Put the skillet contents into a suitably sized bowl, adding the lemon juice and salt.


Coarse salt has its uses

While the mixture is cooling, line three four-ounce ramekins with plastic wrap. If the sides of the mould are straight, bread circles of one size will suffice. However, use what you have available that will serve the purpose and adjust the diameter of the bread rounds if necessary.


Since bread comprises about one half of this pudding, choose really good, fresh bread. Using the bottom of the ramekin as a template, cut nine rounds, three for each ramekin.  If needed, and if the bread is soft enough you can just mush/piece together the right sized circle and still be able to dip it into the berry juices.

Checking to see if bread slices fit.  Crust was left on.

Using a measuring spoon, dole out two LEVEL (not heaping/rounded) tablespoons of the berries into the bottom of the ramekins. If required, remove berries/liquid from the measuring spoon.

Nearly finished ramekins, awaiting for the final slice of soaked bread

Completely permeate three bread slices/rounds with berry juice and place them in the three ramekins over the first layer of berries.


Repeat with two more layers -- berries, bread, berries, ending with the bread. The last slice needs to be above the top rim.


Place them on a plate, put a layer of plastic wrap over them, cover with another plate, and weigh down with a five pound weight. Usually cans of food are recommended, but there is a scarcity of canned food in our larder, so I went with books.  Refrigerate overnight.

My kitchen's holy book, Fannie Farmer's Cookbook was not hefty enough and needed some erudite assistance

Make the coulis by pushing the remaining berry mixture through a sieve with a wooden spoon and reserve in the fridge. 

Remember to use a clean spoon to scrape the outer bottom of the sieve!

Next day, whip up the cream, adding some sugar and a bit of vanilla extract if so desired. Invert the ramekins onto individual serving plates and remove the moulds/plastic wrap. Spoon the coulis around the pudding, topping it with whipped cream and garnish with whole berries, dusting them carefully with sieved confectioner's sugar.


The sourdough white came through with a nice robust touch, holding its own despite being gonflée (swollen) with berry juice. I suspect cinnamon bread, croissant, and brioche would add their own special qualities; I will substitute those for the sourdough white as I see a lot of berries in the near future! The fruit was more like a tart/sweet jam. The edible seeds from the currants were noticeable but not in a bad way, adding a little crunch to an otherwise soft texture. If you rather not have those seeds, then reserve the currants just for making the coulis. 

This is a gorgeous, refreshing dessert so the next time you are near a bunch of berries, take them home and make this moist mound of fruity delight afloat in a luscious sauce.


In the potager, I have been preparing beds as they come free for the autumn/winter harvest: leeks, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, peas, escarole, turnips, carrots, spinach, and beets.  Since these are all cool weather crops, I will water their beds well and cover them up with boards/cardboard/burlap for a few days to lower the soil temperature before sowing.

A garden is always a work in progress: spade, crate for weeds, yellow hose, and horticultural fleece

The tomatoes are beginning to change from green to yellow.

Beefsteak beauties

Hot, dry weather is continuing and perhaps the many days of cool rain will be a thing of the past so the melons can mature.

Cantaloupes are putting out fuzzy, tiny balls which hopefully will become melons

In the flower garden, the several Rose of Sharon bushes are beginning to bloom.


Because Dayo's injury unfortunately is not healing despite our best efforts, his weight-bearing, third toe on his right, back paw will need to be amputated. He's a young cat, having turned two this past April, so hopefully he will recover fairly quickly from surgery and learn how to compensate for one less toe without much difficulty.

Confined to the indoors, Dayo has discovered ways to keep himself amused. He loves hanging out in The Calm One's office because of all the knapsacks, briefcases, and satchels 'decorating' that room. 

Do I look cute in this?

À la prochaine!