Tuesday, 27 August 2013

Cantaloupe Granita & Caramel Cream Parfait

Sixteen Charentais melons have been harvested in our potager last week, and there are another seven threatening maturity soon--lovely, sun-kissed, plump beauties emitting their potent fragrance as they sit on window sills, nestle in fridges, and lay in their patch awaiting judicious plucking. Several are almost the size of honeydew melons.

Charentais melons, summer pears, and Roma tomatoes from the potager

Besides serving them au nature or with ice cream/whipped cream (you could use both simultaneously), one can go the sweet fondue route and dip chunks of melon in warm salted caramel sauce. If something even more fabulous is desired then a parfait is the answer.

When the melon is good, simple works.

Some everbearing strawberries and raspberries from the potager were added to the melon cubes

Caramel sauce becomes fluid when left out for an hour during warm weather

Cantaloupe Granita & Caramel Cream Parfait

I remember well from my New York City childhood, street vendors in the summer shaving ice off a huge block, putting the jagged bits in a paper cone, saturating them with jewel-coloured, super-concentrated fruit syrups, and the best part, being handed this delight. Granita is a fancy, fruitier version of this simple summer treat.

Granita not only tastes great on its own, but is a good way of preserving lots of fruit

A light sugar syrup, flavoured or not, is made first. Fruit puree is then mixed with it and as the mixture is gradually freezing, stirring is done sporadically. C'est tout!

For about a quart of granita, two medium-sized cantaloupes (3 cups/24 ounces* of melon cubes) should provide enough for the granita recipe and some extra for fresh eating/garnishing. Additionally four ounces* of sugar, four ounces* of water, and two teaspoons of minced orange zest will be needed. *fluid measure (recipe can be multiplied)

One orange should suffice for making the zest. Wash and dry the orange well especially if it has been treated. I find a small ceramic knife works better than a zester. Remember you want just the thin orange skin with no white bits.


Put sugar, water, and orange zest in a medium-sized pot and over high heat stir until all sugar is dissolved which should take no more than five minutes. You will be able to see clearly the bottom of the pan. Then over medium heat, simmer for a minute.


Remove from heat, pour into an eight-inch-square or nine-inch round metal cake pan (several metal ice cube trays without their dividers could be substituted) and let cool. Make room in the freezer for it so when required it can be easily positioned.


Scrub melons well, cut in halves, scoop out the seeds, then slice thickly. Using a knife remove the flesh from the skin and make small cubes.

That's a tablespoon, not a teaspoon, in the largest melon (nearly ten inches in diameter!) from our patch



Via a blender or food processor, roughly puree the melon pieces. There should be just under sixteen fluid ounces of puree.

Puree will be lumpy

Add the puree to the syrup and whisk well.


Place the pan in the freezer.  Every ninety minutes until it is frozen, stir the mixture with a fork. When frozen (it took about six hours in my freezer), cover pan with foil or plastic wrap and keep in freezer until needed. When ready to assemble the parfait, take out the granita and scrape the surface with the tines of a fork.


Voila! Delicious, golden slush.

For the parfait, you will need cantaloupe granita, whipped cream, caramel sauce, and fresh melon pieces. Whip the cream with a small amount of sugar. Into each level tablespoon of fluid caramel sauce, fold three heaping tablespoons of whipped cream. While folding, let some caramel swirls remain.


For each serving, layer as neatly and evenly as possible two heaping tablespoons of granita, one heaping tablespoon of the caramel cream and repeat. Top with a piece of fresh melon. This pretty melon parfait was light and luscious at the same time.


Within two weeks of resuming his regular schedule after his long recovery from a paw injury, Dayo has shown all feline interlopers that the garden is still his garden.


To celebrate this important occasion, he ceremoniously jogged from a distance while I was working a veggie bed. The something in his mouth turned out to be a very still mouse. He graciously and carefully laid it on its back at my feet. Remaining motionless, it then suddenly turned over while giving out some of the most endearing high-pitched sounds I ever heard. Quick as, well, a mouse, it smartly hid under the tiles framing the bed completely flummoxing Dayo. One second, bringing home the bacon, the next, staring at an empty skillet! The look on Dayo's face was almost as heartbreaking as the little squeaks of the mouse were.

À la prochaine!

RELATED POSTS

Harvesting Charentais melons
Making salted caramel sauce
How to fold in whipped ingredients

Tuesday, 20 August 2013

Iced Coffee Caramel Float

Though the light golden syrup I recently made for a Carmelised Blackberry Sundae was good, I found myself pining for as potent a rush of caramelness as possible. I happened upon such a holy grail a few days ago when I made Salted Caramel Sauce.  It has a deluge of cream. It has mountains of butter. It has a beach of sugar.  All of these good things come together in an aurous, glossy, divine dessert sauce which takes only twenty minutes to make.  If that was not enough, the salt heightens the lusciousness of those ingredients to the point where all spoons and ladles need to be kept under lock and key...and fingers tied behind backs. 


During les beaux jours, one of the first things I do is make up a couple of quarts of iced coffee each morning.  Keeping them in the sous sol fridge allows my staggering in from the garden for a long cooling drink. Why not, I mused, while splashing cold water on my face before I keeled over from heat prostration, depriving the potager of a mommy, combine caramel and iced coffee to make an ice cream float?  That's exactly what I did, and this float is one tall glass of cool.


First you make the caramel sauce. For around two cups of sauce you will need two cups of granulated sugar, one cup of heavy cream, twelve tablespoons of sweet butter, and one tablespoon of fleur de sel.

Cut the butter up into small chunks

Put the sugar in a big, heavy-bottomed pot to accommodate the furious bubbling up when the butter and cream is added to the melted sugar. Whisk the sugar over medium-high heat.


Keep whisking as lumps are formed which takes about five minutes.


About ten minutes later it will start to melt.  When it is completely melted stop whisking as such motion could cause the liquid to seize. Swirl the pot instead of stirring. This is the crucial time when the sauce could become burnt. On my stove, that time came almost immediately after all the sugar melted.  The sauce becomes a deep golden colour and smells toasty. If using a candy thermometer, look for a registration of 350 degrees F.

The colour you are looking for is the darker area surrounding the whisk

Add all the butter at once and resume whisking.


Keep whisking until all the butter is completely melted, most of the bubbles are gone, and the sauce is smooth which should take a minute or two.


Remove the pot from the heat and slowly add the cream while whisking.


Lastly, whisk in the fleur de sel, making sure you blend the salt completely. A test stirring with a wooden spoon to ensure that no salt granules are lurking along the bottom of the pot is a good idea.


Let cool about fifteen minutes before pouring in a suitable container.


Keep covered in the fridge where it will last for about two weeks. When very cold, it will be quite firm which works well as a spread.


For the float, you will need ice cream (I used vanilla), some fluid caramel sauce, and iced coffee made with cream and caramel sauce.

When making the hot coffee, ensure that it is quite strong and beat/whisk in a tablespoon of heavy cream and a tablespoon or two of the sauce (if using firm sauce, it will melt) for each glass.  Put in fridge until very cold. To assemble the float, put a thin layer of sauce (warm it slightly to make it more fluid and drinkable) on the bottom of a tall glass and follow with a couple of spoonfuls of vanilla ice cream.


Pour iced coffee almost to the rim.  The ice cream will float to the top.  You can add a bit more of ice cream and then dribble on some more fluid sauce. Stick in a straw and keep a spoon handy! Keep in mind if you touch the bottom of glass with the straw, you will get a nice draught of caramel.


It's silly to suggest ways of using this fantastic sauce because its flexibility will trigger your creativity, but so far we have used it as a spread on scones.


And lavished it on crepes.


In the potager, there are delicious fruits and veggies to harvest each and every day.

Basil, beefsteak tomato, bay leaf, cucumber, ever-bearing strawberries, and plum

In the flower garden, zinnias are blooming.


The Lobularia Maritima I sowed several months ago in various cement cracks is blooming nicely.


As for Mr. Furry Pants, better known as Dayo, he has been remiss in showing up for photo shoots--he is either staying out all day and night out of sight or he is hiding under furniture because he remains shy of our house guests. So no photos of him for this week, I am afraid.

No Dayo to be seen!

À la prochaine!

Tuesday, 13 August 2013

Chilled Mushroom Tomato Soup...and some Angoulême sightseeing

August brings both high temperatures and gorgeous, plump, bursting-with-flavour, ripe tomatoes to our potager. Continuing the trend of adapting my repertoire of hot soups for les beaux jours, it is time for Mushroom Soup à la forestière to get a summery makeover.


For each serving, you will need eight fluid ounces of well chilled and seasoned Mushroom Soup à la forestière (recipe is here), a large, ripe tomato, four teaspoons of crème fraîche, a few capers and a couple of drops of sherry vinegarWash and core the tomato. Peel a small patch of skin and then trim off a few thin strips of flesh for garnishing before giving the tomato a coarse chopping.

Cored and halved, garden-fresh beefsteak

Puree the tomato pieces either in a blender, food processor, or via a stick mixer.


Sieve the tomato puree. Voilà! Tomato coulis.


Whisk three teaspoons of the crème fraîche along with the coulis into the soup.



Add a few drops of sherry vinegar--some caper brine could be substituted. Adjust seasonings, that is, salt and freshly ground pepper if necessary. Cut five small petals from the reserved tomato strips.  Put the remaining teaspoon of the crème fraîche--ease it gently off the spoon--in the middle and top with capers.  Carefully float the tomato petals to form a flower. Served with baguette de campagne (French sourdough white), this chilled, rosy-tinted soup was smooth, zesty, and earthy.


Another way to take advantage of our garden bounty of tomatoes is just to slice them thickly and sprinkle with olive oil, sherry vinegar, chiffonade of basil, capers, sliced mild peppers, and fleur de sel.



Several family members are visiting from Britain which gives us an opportunity to explore Angoulême.  Our small city each January hosts the International Comics Festival which is the largest gathering of this kind in Europe and the second largest in the world, after Comiket. Since its inception in 1974, numerous, stupendous wall murals associated with this annual event have been painted. Walking or driving through the city is a delight because though they are all over the place, they are often where you least expect them.

Natacha painted in 1999 by François Walthéry, a Belgian cartoonist

P'tit bout d'chique

This tradition has spurred other artists not associated with the festival to do their thing also.

The ivy, all the shutters, and the side window are trompe-l'oeils

Eglise Saint Martial may not be as old as some others in Angouleme, but it still is very imposing with a dignified, haughty bearing with an adjoining, spacious square. Though a place of worship has existed in this particular place since the early Middle Ages, the present Saint Martial was built in the mid-nineteenth century.


With a couple of hungry kids in tow, we headed for a market. Flat peaches with sweet, white flesh and a hint of almond are very popular here.

An 'UFO' peach

You may be wondering what a perfect dinner would be after all that trekking around. Perhaps some French charcuterie?  Nope, it was a most excellent Melton Mowbray Pork Pie brought from the UK.  


But the cornichons and baby pickled onions were French!


With all the activity, Dayo went into full bump-in-the-bed mode.


A bit of the bump is uncovered.


And some more...


 À la prochaine!


RELATED POSTS

Chilled Carrot/Red Currant/Orange Soup
Chilled Golden Shrimp Chowder